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Thread: 1962 Jeep

  1. #61
    BANNED! sxcpotatoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobcat View Post
    Personally I'd do a 2.3 Ford motor, or a 4.0 out of a later jeep. Also, I do not believe that 190hp in one would be "Flip city" since that's still barely anything. But I do agree that a hopped up v8 has no business being in a cruiser CJ. Have you cracked open the diff covers to see what the internals of the axles look like?
    Going to crack open the covers on the axles and check things out before it goes on the road, for sure. I did find a 2.3 turbocoupe motor & T5 (but no transfer case on that of course) for $500. It doesn't look like the shifter area under the stick housing has much, if any drainage possibility into the transmission itself (unless I'm wrong). The thing is, you put 190 hp in a 2200 lb vehicle, that's almost exactly like putting a 380hp v8 in a Town Car. Now lift that Town Car 8" (to account for the normally high ride height of a Jeep + the spring-over axle conversion) and you probably aren't safe cornering at anything above 1.5mph, oh, and shorten the wheel base to 80 inches or whatever is basically one of the shortest Jeeps ever made.
    Last edited by sxcpotatoes; 05-19-2016 at 07:40 AM.
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    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  2. #62
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    More pics

    Had to cut power take off supports to fit gas tank, but so far looks like '81 fuel system will fit great. Side straps are in on that skid plate (not pictured), gonna paint it all today after I por15 the tank.

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    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  3. #63
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    I would totally remove that bracket on the rear cross beam or at least cut it flush with the rear beam so that if some shit happens and you get rear ended, it doesn't instantly puncture the gas tank.

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  4. #64
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Jeeps with stock power aren't safe to operate on flat ground at more than 25 mph, so I don't know that concerns about extra power and making them less safe are overly valid. You're driving a tin can with no doors, seat belts, or roof. You should already be driving it accordingly.

    That said, a turbo really doesn't serve any purpose on a Jeep other than "hey look at me" value. It would likely never wind up enough to make the turbo actually spin, or at least you probably shouldn't. An N/A 4 banger would do all thats needed.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #65
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    gadget73: Oh, it came with lap belts bolted in! Down the line I could maybe see putting some really good seats and 3 or 5 point harnesses in it, but the high back seats that came with it do slide a little, not that *I* need any forward adjustment at all. Gonna pick up some more tape and gloss black paint today, and see how much progress we can make this weekend.

    Sly: no worries, the seam of the gas tank is resting on the back part of the frame/cradled in the skid plate. If I get rear ended, the seam edge will push in and probably split like a banana peel.

    ...Maybe I should get some life insurance so if I die, I'll get rich!
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    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  6. #66
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    Gas tank in, fuel lines run, hide your women time shortly!

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    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  7. #67
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    So what's wrong with my rear end?

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    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  8. #68
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Looks like the pinion depth is way the hell out of whack. You shouldn't have pecker tracks on the carrier, and it sure looks like the ring gear is rubbing on something. Not sure if its the carrier assembly is moved inward, or the pinion is in too far but something is not where it belongs.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #69
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    yeah, I think this is going to the shop to be re-set up, the pinion/yoke or whatever on the rear moves in and out some, 4.11 gears if I read the number soup correctly, one side looks like it has a 76 & other looks like 84, so are those the R & L axle years? Should I look at different gear ratio? I probably won't be off-roading or mudding much if ever, but it may be smarter to leave it 4.11 with the gutless Iron Duke. I think people will be understanding if they have to pass me if I'm only doing 60-65 max on the highway.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  10. #70
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The ratio probably isn't the problem, though it will of course limit your top speed somewhat.

    The 10 12 65 on the ring gear sure looks like a date code to me though. The two digit number stamped into the bearing retainers also may be a year code. Or not.

    Part of the problem is that its a Jeep. I think every one of them is built at least partly from random bullshit from other years and models. Figuring out precisely what you have always seems to involve taking it apart and then trying to figure out what it came from in the first place.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #71
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    Yes I guess they are kind of like a panther that has been owned by a member of this forum in that you never know what parts you are going to find.
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  12. #72
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    Yup, the ratio is the "41-11" stamped on the ring gear, means 41 teeth on the ring and 11 on the pinion, so actually you got 3.73 gears in that axle. I'd leave them be, it's a good compromise between low-end power and highway speeds capability. And yes you got side-specific axles (obviously, since the pumpkin is off-center), however the stamps on the main caps should not have to do anything with that - the actual part number for the shafts will be on the shaft themselves. Actually, this being a Dana, it's gotta have a BOM number somewhere on it, typically it's stamped on the passenger-side axle tube on the back side (facing the gas tank on your case) near the pumpkin - if you can find that you can plug it in here and hopefully you'll find everything Dana knows about your axle:
    http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/deabill.aspx

    Also, if you actually do plan on going somewhat fast with this thing, do consider reversing the shackles on the front springs - basically you move them from the front eye of the leaves to the rear, just like how the rears are done. Or at the very least add some sort of a Panhard bar (tracbar) to locate the axle laterally - '86-'97 F350 4x4s have the same retarded spring setup and they're well know for their horrible handling especially once the tracbar bushings wear out, can't imagine how bad it would be with no tracbar at all.

    On the flip side of all that, it appears that you have a Powr-Lok limited-slip diff, those are rebuildable and very customizable and all-around pretty great diffs.
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  13. #73
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	47071 Shock-ing progress on the Jeep! Got bolts welded to the plates and put shocks on it. Gonna finish the power steering plate/mount and then wiring and the body goes back on it.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

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