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Thread: 1962 Jeep

  1. #1
    BANNED! sxcpotatoes's Avatar
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    Default 1962 Jeep

    So, my Uncle got this a couple years back, before his stroke. He will sell it to me for about 1k.

    I don't know much about Jeeps he planned on putting a 2.5L 4cyl auto drivetrain in it from an 85-86 s10? It has that motor and good manual tranny in it afaik but there's some screwing around with intakes and carbs and ports not lining up from 85-86 or 86-87 4cyl.

    I have no idea what my options would be for a '62 Jeep with a manual tranny from an 85 s10? Who knows what carbs or intakes on hand.

    Any help or advice would be appreciated, it may only be a 2wd. It had 2 bad fenders replaced with RUST FREE METAL units out of California, a new windshield, and a fresh year or two old $1400 dark/medium green paint job by my uncle who has a body shop down in WV.

    Good title. No top. Do I look at slapping a good drivetrain in or work with what's there? Anybody know what are proven/documented/cheap swaps? Thanks!

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    Last edited by sxcpotatoes; 08-10-2015 at 01:26 AM.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  2. #2
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Which model Heep is it? 2wd was typically a DJ thing. DJ's are postal Jeeps, the ones with the weirdo body.

    Not sure what the 2.5 S10 had. May have been some flavor of T5. Thing with Jeeps is you can put almost anything together in one as long as you've got a welder.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #3
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    Yeah, no top means probably not a postal jeep. It could be 4wd, I don't know how the setup works if the s10 4wd stuff bolts up or what. I could probably just get it and tow it back on a dolly in neutral? w/my '03 and worry about it here. Just looking at it as a fun cheap convertible, slap historical plates and insurance on it and go once it's running again. It even has new tires/some alloy rims

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    Last edited by sxcpotatoes; 08-10-2015 at 10:20 AM.
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    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  4. #4
    BANNED! sxcpotatoes's Avatar
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    Looks like this: http://youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/5155960305.html but with different seats/rims/tires and tube bumpers
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  5. #5
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Stick the transfer case in neutral and you should be able to tow it no problem on a tow bar. Just make sure the rear axle has oil in it, the front hubs are unlocked, and the transfer case has oil in it. It'll all go to shit if it runs dry.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Don't completely rule out a DJ - the early models had the same body as the CJs - open top and all. The round-fender DJ-5 didn't come around until 1965 though, so a '62 would be a DJ-3A with flat fenders.

    Quote Originally Posted by sxcpotatoes View Post
    Good title. No top. Do I look at slapping a good drivetrain in or work with what's there? Anybody know what are proven/documented/cheap swaps? Thanks!
    The Buick 231 is a well-known swap, as a slightly smaller version of that engine came stock in late Kaiser-era CJ-5s. It's probably what I would do in such a situation. But the Iron Jester is a common one as well, possibly the cheapest/easiest way to replace the stock Jeep four-cylinder. If it's working now, it might be best left as-is.

    Here's instructions on doing the V6 swap on a CJ-3B which is reasonably similar: http://cj3b.info/EngineSwap.html
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    Thanks a bunch for all the info and advice, Stocker. I guess we'll see what we see when I get it back home Thursday or Friday. Especially in regards to pics and underhood shots and what parts come with it. I may have to join a Jeep forum soon to have an excuse to drive it to meets, and find (or start) some 'Cars and Coffee' style gatherings around here.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  8. #8
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah, some of those had a 228 "Fireball". The 231 is an improvement over that one. Its not odd-fire at least so it doesn't run so rough. I'd really be looking at a 4.3 swap though. More power, not that you need it, but its a somewhat more rugged engine. A 4x4 S10 would be a good donor for trans and transfer case. If you want to keep it carb, 2bbl and 4bbl intakes do exist for that engine. Marine applications in the mid 90s used a lot of 4bbl 4.3 motors. There also should be a goodly supply of aftermarket intakes and such.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #9
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    SBFs were a common swap. I helped restor a 74 a couple years back.
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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    Better plate. I guess I can wax them to protect them but fuck all the new flat printed plates. They just don't look right unless they're stamped out of metal by presumably forced prison labor.

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    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  11. #11
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    yeah... I'd just navel jelly the rusted parts and then clearcoat at most. Waxing is definitely a good idea.

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  12. #12
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    I think new issue plates here are flat too. Mine are embossed.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #13
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    Flat they are. Looks stupid IMO.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lincolnmania View Post
    if its got tits or tires it's bound to give you trouble

  14. #14
    BANNED! sxcpotatoes's Avatar
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    BAMF Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	43537

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    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  15. #15
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    What have I gotten myself into? Okay, here's the rest of the photos of the Jeep in a flickr album https://www.flickr.com/photos/sexcpo...57655563875223

    Little more info and stuff I found/figured out. I towed it up to the BMV and got the title, classic plates and such all taken care of. It's a 1962 Willys Jeep body mounted to an S10 frame with an aftermarket computer up behinde the cutout hole in the custom wood dash for a non-existent glovebox. S10 gauges in center of "dash" etc. You can see from the photos that it looks nice from 20' but has rust coming through the paint job in spots and at hinges etc. No mirrors at all (hopefully easily remedied) no intake, carb, broken accellerator pedal, though top part with throttle cable is intact. Motor swap (possibly by me) is probably the way to go, don't know if I should have a clutch done too at the same time, or if it's fine as is.

    The gas tank leaked a little and the rear end did too (up where the driveshaft attaches to the diff) when we unloaded it but nary a drop to be seen the entire time we towed it home. Man was that an experience, I didn't reallize the trailer jerks and tugs on the car on EVERY ROAD IMPERFECTION YOU ENCOUNTER, and if you watched my dash cam vid from my last trip down you'll know most of the roads are more patch than anything when it's not a one lane road!

    Anyway, mom towed my other uncle's tow dolly down today and made it there safe. Now I just have to find a decent Iron Duke that's not $500 etc. Also need to figure out what size battery it needs and what to use for a tie-down (not much battery needed I'm sure since it doesn't have a radio or heater). This would be my first vehicle ever with a side post battery if I ever get that far on it. So it's a bastardized project, but the Willys body should be worth something even after a few years of exposure to the elements. I may lower the classic coverage from 5k value, but they're already stretching the rules considering letting me have coverage without a garage for the vehicles.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  16. #16
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I think I'd be frame-swapping that back to the proper frame. Unless my eyes are much deceived, that is a 2wd frame. I'm most definitely not a Jeep guy, but whats the point of one if it doesn't even have four wheel peel?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  17. #17
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    Yeah it's 2wd, but I'm not looking to mud it or jump snowbanks in it, just want it for a cheap convertible. Test the old adage that 'chicks dig convertibles.' Uncle was straight up front about it being 2wd and thought I wouldn't want anything to do with it.

    And with the 62-90 hp max 2.5L 4cyl Iron Duke, it's not winning any races even at 2200lb curb weight. Basically about 1/2 the weight & half the power of a stock panther. Manual transmissions are cool though, want to keep that.

    First words out of oldest nephew's mouth when he saw it: "I want it."

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    Last edited by sxcpotatoes; 08-28-2015 at 10:12 PM.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  18. #18
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    Seeing as it's so bastardized already, the last thing I'd put back in is an Iron Puke. A 4.3 or SBC of your choice would be loads of fun. Or if you really want to have fun... https://youtu.be/3hy0oDAQ1tE

    Also, tow dollies are pretty much the worse thing ever. I hate towing with them so much.

  19. #19
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    If I'm reading the internet right the SBCs bolt right up to that iron duke transmission don't they? I dunno, my dad knows a guy in town that used to work in a chebby garage so he might be able to come out and take a look at it, if we can catch him and talk him into it. I've found a few Iron Dukes but the ones that don't have rusted-through oil pans and aren't in pieces are like 2-3 hours away and they are not interested on budging on price.
    ,
    Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

  20. #20
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    NO. The iron duke is a small pattern, and a bit of a bastard pattern. A SBC and a 4.3v6 are a standard (to me anyway) bellhousing.

    Is the starter on the passanger or drivers side? (I havn't looked at the pics yet, waiting for them to load)

    If have an S10 frame, you have lots of possibilities, right down to even swapping in another complete s10 frame and drivetrain. What you need to do is take lots of pictures underneath, front to back and look for frame modifications. It may have been chopped to fit the jeep body better.
    Get to know that jeep inside and out as it is right now. No telling what sort of mix-n-match has been done at this point.

    Liscence plates: I've had very good luck using Testors model paint to touch up a plate. The nice thing is with the range of colors they do have you can mix your own color brew to match something. I've used it successfully to match both emblem and liscense plate colors. No idea what the paint costs now, but back when I built models as a yoot I had enough colors and time already spent making my own it was a fairly quick process to determine what I'd need to mix together. I also did not need to paint an entire plate, but it is an option to consider. I guess the other question is, is testors model paint still an enamel? Or has it been greenified and made "safe"? in which case I wouldn't trust it out in the sun.

    Alex.

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