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{ENGINE} Oilpump replacement, in the car..

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    {ENGINE} Oilpump replacement, in the car..

    After much trials and tribulations, I did this successfully.

    First, jack the car up, and put it on jackstands. You need all the room to slide around under the car that you can get. Then, remove all the bolts to the fan shroud. This ensure the fan can move freely, and is a lot simpler than removing the fan...

    Drain oil. Remove distributor.

    Next, you remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine mounts to the block. They are 5/8" heads. After this, attact an engine hoist to the motor (depending on your configuration, you may have to remove your upper intake/carb) and raise the motor up until the valve cover hits the wiper box. This will give you plenty of room to access all the bolts to the oilpan...

    There are 4 1/2" head bolts, that hold the two front and two rear pan bolts on, and 7/16" head bolts for the rest. Remove all. Drop pan.

    You will see, you have access to the complete oilpump. Also, if you have enough leverage, this would be a good time to remove those maincaps and have a look.

    Since you have the pan off, Install a 1pc oilpan gasket. No exceptions!

    Clean the pickup tube very well.

    Replace the oilpump and driveshaft. This is where you make sure the driveshaft goes straight up through the hole, and will make the distributor turn. We used my makeshift oilpump primer that I made from an oil distrubutor, with lots of hammering and grinding :chainsaw:

    After all that, make sure the distributor turns the oilpump, and if it does, you are good to go!

    Reinstall pan, and drop the motor back down and bolt everything back up.

    Now, refill with fresh oil and filter.

    Prime the oilpump using the shaft tool. Put the drill in reverse so it spins counterclockwise. Pay attention to your oil pressure.

    Now, reinstall yor distrubutor, and all other stuff you removed, and enjoy!

    This took me and justin about two hours to do. I really cant verify that this will work on every car (like 351W cars) but this is what we did, and it works. Also, make sure you have another person operating the lift, and pulling the motor around, preferably someone you trust!

    Enjoy!
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!


    #2
    A 351w might require the removal of the driverside valve cover and maybe the rear rockers if you need even more room.

    RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

    '80 Town Coupé
    '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
    '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

    Comment


      #3
      Curious, did you get any pics of the oilpump and shit when I had the pump down?
      1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
      Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

      Comment


        #4
        dont forget the clip on the oil pump shaft. you need that to hold the shaft from falling out while the motor is being assembled and its upside down on the engine stand.

        Good job on the oil pump replacement. Hope you got more than 3PSI of oil pressure now.
        2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
        89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
        88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


        I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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          #5
          Originally posted by 88grandmarq
          dont forget the clip on the oil pump shaft. you need that to hold the shaft from falling out while the motor is being assembled and its upside down on the engine stand.

          Good job on the oil pump replacement. Hope you got more than 3PSI of oil pressure now.
          We got 25ish at idle, and thats with 20W50...

          Oh yeah, I gotgot to mention that damn clip. What a pain in the ass!
          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

          Comment


            #6
            And the gasket on the pickup tube and pump to block gasket. Also a good idea to make sure the pickup screen is nice and clean before re-assembling.

            Is that 25 psi hot or cold? Mine does about 20-25 hot at idle with 10w40 and around 50-55 when cold. When the motor was first put together it would do about 60 cold and 25-30 hot, but it dropped to where it is now after about 5k miles. I think the book calls for at least 8 at hot idle so you're in good shape.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              mine is about 60 cold and around 30 warm
              http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
              http://secondhandradio.com/

              R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

              Comment


                #8
                my motor is also loose. Plastiguage showed everything right at the outer range of the OK limits when I checked. Its a 120k crank thats not been turned with stock size bearings. I did have it polished which possibly increased the clearance a tiny bit as well.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  I think his roller rockers or soemthing are hitting...
                  1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                  Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    1.7 RR will supposedly clear stock valve covers with the baffles removed. Anything taller should be fine. I have Motorsport stamped steel covers and Crane 1.7 rockers and no clearance issues.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      With his 1.7s, I belive he is over .500 lift...

                      Yeah his baffles may be a problem...
                      1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                      Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                      Comment

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