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    Battery cables.

    I need new battery cables. The positive cable was spliced into and never taped, so it's on life support with Rem Oil and zip ties after clearing out all the corrosion. The negative cable is cracked everywhere and falling apart.

    I know what I'm gonna do, but I need to know the length of the negative cable. I know the positive cable only goes like 8 inches to the starter solenoid and the chassis ground wire is about the same from the negative post, but I can't tell how long the negative cable is. At least 4 feet, but I don't know where it goes exactly, so it could be longer.

    Any estimates?
    89 Grand Marquis GS.

    Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

    #2
    Bolts to the side of the block, below the AC compressor. I forget what i used on mine, but I don't think its 48 inches. Might be a 40" cable.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      The negative cable runs from the battery to the frame (were it grounds via a tab wrapped around were the cable is stripped a bit) then to a bolt on the side of the block.

      What I USUALLY DO is get cable with battery post clamp at one end and a eye end on the other (frame) end. I make sure this cable is long enough to reach the battery neg post no matter how or were (same with pos cable length) it is oriented in the battery tray. From the frame to the block I install a double eye end cable. Be sure to remove any corrosion from the frame attachment point and the block attachment point.

      Some posite and negitive cables have a smaller pig tail be sure to replace with the same and clean ground surfaces for the small neg wire and a clean connection for the positive small wire if needed.

      personally I prefer to go with larger Gage wire think about 4 gage min for both neg and pos
      Last edited by turbo2256b; 09-27-2015, 11:21 AM.
      Scars are tatoos of the fearless

      Comment


        #4
        Something else i have found is places like Autozone often sell 4 gauge cable with only 6 gauge guts just thicker insulation. NAPA seems to be ok on premade cable. Defiantly better on bulk cable if you want to make your own.
        Scars are tatoos of the fearless

        Comment


          #5
          Goto rockauto, most battery cables have the length embeded in the part number. ACDelco cables, the last number is the length in inches. ie: 4SX60 (4 guage, side terminal, 60 inches long).

          Alex.

          Comment


            #6
            +1 on the 4AWG wire. Makes the old electrics much happier.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              Any benefit in bigger than 4 gauge? Other spots to ground?

              85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
              160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
              waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

              06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

              Comment


                #8
                I'm going with SGX cabling, and what I'm buying is by the foot with ring terminals pre-attached, so all I'll have to deal with is some bolts. I'm going 2 gauge for the main cables and 4 gauge for the chassis ground (because that's the smallest pre-lugged cable I can find of that quality).

                These are the battery terminals I have: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...6120/overview/ Gold plated brass, with a ring terminal screw on top and two wire set-screw holes on the sides. Should make this super easy.

                It looks like Rock Auto only has the positive cable for AC Delco, and according to the part number, it's 16 inches. So I'll get 4 feet of black, 2 feet of red, and 1 foot of 4 gauge. That should be about $30 altogether.

                Thanks a bunch, now I can plan around my newly-castrated budget. I'll be sure to clean all the contact points the best I can, and I'll hit them with Ballistol after I connect them.
                Last edited by ootdega; 09-28-2015, 01:02 AM.
                89 Grand Marquis GS.

                Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Not a panther...

                  But on my F-250, I noticed the thing would get ornery under warm/ hot starts. Turn really slow, etc. The truck came with Auto Zone replacem,ent pioeces, and they are garbage.

                  I went down to the local welding supply house, and bought 7 feet of 1/0 welding cable (super flexible, and fine strands). Overkill? Maybe. They had the lugs i needed right there, and even cable ends with the solder built in. Little bit of heat shrink tubing, and it has super duty cables on it. Whirls over like there are no plugs in it when its hot now.

                  Not a super detailed image, but you can see my snazzy cable ends.

                  Honestly, you can make cables at home for less than you can buy crappy autoizone pieces. I prefer the soldered ones, but some folks like the crimp. Any welding place will have all different sizes of cable available. When I put the battery in the trunk on my tudor, I used 2/0 because the positive was like 12 feet long.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
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                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                    Any benefit in bigger than 4 gauge? Other spots to ground?
                    Unless you're running massive accessories and a 200+ amp alternator... not really. Just making sure the grounds are solid and of the same gauge wire to the engine/starter and at least 6 gauge to the body and you'll be just peachy for anything that the 130A 3G will put up with.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by sly View Post
                      Unless you're running massive accessories and a 200+ amp alternator... not really. Just making sure the grounds are solid and of the same gauge wire to the engine/starter and at least 6 gauge to the body and you'll be just peachy for anything that the 130A 3G will put up with.
                      Or running a battery cable from the trunk. Also have found running a ground to the front at least 4 ga from a trunk mtd battery helps also more so with FI
                      Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Something that was pointed out to me about the cheap cables, sometimes they have steel ends. If you get corrosion between the copper wire and the steel end it will be a high resistance spot and can cause cranking and charging problems. The fat copper lugs are the way to go. Welding cable is also nice to work with, it will actually bend and flex where the fat strand stuff simply will not.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          Something that was pointed out to me about the cheap cables, sometimes they have steel ends. If you get corrosion between the copper wire and the steel end it will be a high resistance spot and can cause cranking and charging problems. The fat copper lugs are the way to go. Welding cable is also nice to work with, it will actually bend and flex where the fat strand stuff simply will not.
                          After some Googling around, I'm fairly sure these are tin-plated copper based on the texture and sheen, but I can't find anything confirming it. I can't afford to try building my own cables right now, though, and I need the cables ASAP.

                          They'll probably be a pain in the ass to bend, but I'll figure it out.

                          http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-AWG-ga-gau...s/370981135462
                          Last edited by ootdega; 09-29-2015, 02:01 AM.
                          89 Grand Marquis GS.

                          Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by ootdega View Post
                            After some Googling around, I'm fairly sure these are tin-plated copper based on the texture and sheen, but I can't find anything confirming it. I can't afford to try building my own cables right now, though, and I need the cables ASAP.

                            They'll probably be a pain in the ass to bend, but I'll figure it out.

                            http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-AWG-ga-gau...s/370981135462
                            I bought a cable for my 3G charge cable setup from that seller back in February. It's been 8 months now and I haven't had any problems with it. What I bought was a short length of 4 AWG to go from the megafuse to the solenoid. I don't remember what the ends looked like they were made of. I'll see if I can remember to get a picture of the end or at least look at it again to see if I can determine what the ends are made of.
                            Vic

                            ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                            ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                            ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                            ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Stick a magnet on them. If it doesn't stick, its probably tinned copper or brass. if the magnet sticks, you don't want it.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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