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ECU Issue for GT40/Explorer Swap

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    ECU Issue for GT40/Explorer Swap

    So a few months ago I did the GT40/Explorer swap on my Colony Park. At that time I installed a Mark 7 ECU. I have been chasing a erratic idle, eating gas like it was going out of style. After many items being replaced I narrowed the problem down to the Lincoln ECU. I installed a Mustang DA1 ECU yesterday and that seemed to have fixed both issues above. Now I know that the Mustang ECU cant control, not a huge issue. I also noticed my horn doesn't work and it did before, anyone else had that problem?

    Anyone else had any trouble with the Lincoln ECU and using it for this swap? I seem to recall one other person having a similar issue were the car wouldn't run right with the Lincoln ECU but cant locate it now.

    #2
    check fuses. if the horn is on the same fuse as cruise like it is in my 88, that could be it. You may have the same problem I was having with the horns being old and worn out and drawing too much current. Or the ECM grounds one of those pins that's used for the cruise and blows that fuse.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      I did a GT40/Explorer swap using a Mark 7 ECU in a 91CV, and have had no problems at all, car runs perfect.
      You may want to try an ECU from another Mark 7.

      Comment


        #4
        Some people have problems, others don't. Really seems to be no rhyme or reason.
        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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          #5
          May as well open up the ecu and see if the caps have puked their guts.

          Alex.

          Comment


            #6
            You may need to de-pin the ECM connector where the cruise wiring goes. Possible something in there caused the fuse to blow since the cruise powers through the horn circuit. you'd be looking at these pins:


            Pin 2: Brake ON/OFF. . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Green
            Pin 35: Speed Control Vent Solenoid. White / Pink
            Pin 38: Speed Control Vacuum Solenoid. . . . . Grey / Black
            Pin 39: Speed Control Command Switch Ground. Light Blue / Yellow
            Pin 41: Speed Control Solenoid (+) . . . . . . Orange / Yellow
            Pin 50: Speed Control Command Switch (+) Light Blue / Black


            Those have no function on a Mustang ECM.

            The way I fixed my stupid cam/engine/ECM mismatch crap was to go mass air. Runs much happier now.

            If you'd like to get fancy and retain the cruise, you can piggy-back the stock ECM in there to handle those functions. Check out part 2 of this, it will work the same way.

            http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00077.html
            Last edited by gadget73; 12-17-2015, 06:17 PM.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              If you did explorer HO swap, and it's not running right, double check that the O2 sensors were not plugged in wrong sides. Been there, done that. Only discovered that years later after I converted to Mass air, and had a datalogging device hooked up to the computer.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                If you did explorer HO swap, and it's not running right, double check that the O2 sensors were not plugged in wrong sides. Been there, done that. Only discovered that years later after I converted to Mass air, and had a datalogging device hooked up to the computer.
                I am installing brand new o2 sensors in it today, I will make sure they are plugged in the correct sides

                Comment


                  #9
                  A few more questions while all you are posting in here

                  what fuel pressure are you running? I already have an adjustable FPR but it doesnt have the hookup for a vaccum line, is this an issue?

                  What base timing are you running?

                  Also what ohm do you have your Throttle Position Sensor set at?
                  Last edited by fivelstang4; 12-18-2015, 11:24 AM. Reason: added anotther question

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                    Some people have problems, others don't. Really seems to be no rhyme or reason.
                    I think I'm having a similar problem with my Mustang GT HO ECM. After the changing out coolant and throttle sensors, I'm getting a good idle now. However, I’m lucking if I get 15 mpg. I’ve been looking at a Megasquirt ECM for better engine control (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...-50-p-524.html). Maybe it will help with your problem as well as mine. A little pricey though. Has anyone tried them?


                    sigpic

                    I'd rather be a failure at something I love than a success at something I hate.
                    George Burns

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Megasquirt is really good and will support ANY upgrades you can throw at these things (short of running a 15K rpm F1 racing engine of course). It's well worth the money if you're really going to build up some stuff. I do think it may require a mass-air sensor though... but I haven't looked at them in over 3 years. I do know they have plug and play adapters that will just plug right into the ECM harness. Which is nice.

                      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                      Originally posted by dmccaig
                      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Fuel pressure should be around 39PSI.
                        Base timing is 10 degrees.
                        TPS is generally set using voltage, I believe it is between .5 and 1.1 volts, some people like to set it at .9, but technically anywhere in that range should work, the computer reads where the TPS is at startup and uses that as a closed position.
                        -Phil

                        sigpic

                        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by BigT View Post
                          I think I'm having a similar problem with my Mustang GT HO ECM. After the changing out coolant and throttle sensors, I'm getting a good idle now. However, I’m lucking if I get 15 mpg. I’ve been looking at a Megasquirt ECM for better engine control (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...-50-p-524.html). Maybe it will help with your problem as well as mine. A little pricey though. Has anyone tried them?
                          What is your setup? 15 is average, or highway? If highway you should be getting better if you have a HO swap. Like GM guy said, open the ECU, check that the capacitors are decent. Otherwise there are a plethora of reasons why you might be getting bad fuel milage
                          -Phil

                          sigpic

                          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                            Fuel pressure should be around 39PSI.
                            Base timing is 10 degrees.
                            TPS is generally set using voltage, I believe it is between .5 and 1.1 volts, some people like to set it at .9, but technically anywhere in that range should work, the computer reads where the TPS is at startup and uses that as a closed position.

                            Thanks.

                            I meant voltage not ohms, sorry

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I go for 0.9 to 1.0 volts at idle, the closer to 1.0 the better. Seems to work good for me, and I've done a few... Including one GT40/Expy intake swap with the Mk7 ECM that I had a hard time keeping it under the speed limit afterwards That was in a Mk7 tho, so the ECM was right at home there as far as wiring goes.

                              Agreed on Brown Muscle's FPR and timing numbers, 35-40 on the fuel and 10 degrees BTDC as a starting point then you may be able to work your way up to 12 or even more. IIRC that Mk7 I mentioned above runs 12 degrees now.
                              The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                              The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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