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    #31
    Originally posted by BlackVic_P71 View Post
    Yeah, 1330/1350 u-joint at the trans yoke(not the original yoke) and 1350/1350 at the tail end. The original u-joints are 1310 but I bought a Ford AOD yoke which uses a 1330 joint.
    Well then... Looks like I can put the money I was going to throw at the 2010 PI shaft into just buying a better yoke. Didn't expect it to bolt right in...

    That photo is probably the best information you could possibly give on the subject. Thank you.
    89 Grand Marquis GS.

    Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

    Comment


      #32
      pantera77, I may have acquired an MMC driveshaft. Matching color stripes, from a 2000 Crown Victoria Police. However no markings saying MMC Alcoa or whatever. measuring it shows 55.5 inches (center to center). Measuring my driveshaft in the car now (2003 Police) Center to Center also measures 55.5 inches. I thought the MMC was shorter than the interceptor aluminum piece. Would you be able to measure your MMC?

      Comment


        #33
        What is the advantage of a aluminum shaft and what years can I find a direct swap one for a 88 Marquis ls four door

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Elias View Post
          What is the advantage of a aluminum shaft and what years can I find a direct swap one for a 88 Marquis ls four door
          It's lighter, and less prone to vibration. It also doesn't rust. A direct swap would be found in a box equipped with an aluminum driveshaft. The aeros and whales (non police) with aluminum driveshafts (except for early/AOD equipped 92 model year) will work with conversion u-joints and your original end pieces (slip yoke and pinion flange). The police aluminum and mmc driveshafts can be used as well, with the use of a spacer, and the conversion u-jpints and your original end pieces.

          Comment


            #35
            Has anyone ever used a double cardan rear CV joint type driveshaft in a box? (like the ones in the Mark VII's)
            I've had two issues with my regular steel driveshaft in my 88 Lincoln for years now, 1. It's too damn long, very difficult to remove and install due to the excessive length; and, 2. it vibrates like a mofo between 80 to 100 km/hr.
            The length issue has prevented me from removing the transmission to get it rebuilt for at least a couple years now; and time is running out for that part as well. Noisy like an AC compressor in forward gear, slipping when cold, stinking of burnt fluid and very hard to go into OD when at operating temperature.
            Embarrassing is an understatement when you have company in the car. I talked to an old guy a little while ago with a 79 Mark V, he said he had a similar problem with his vibrating and swore up and down that once he had a driveshaft made with the double U-joint setup, it made his car's driveshaft smooth as silk at all speeds.
            I looked and found the H-yokes are available at rock auto, link here to part: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...88413&jsn=4028
            I was pondering buying one, getting three U-joints, dropping my old driveshaft off at a local driveline shop and asking them to use my original flange yoke, the H-yoke, transmission slip yoke and make a driveshaft balanced that's about an inch shorter than what I have now and the double-cardan CV joint in the rear. Lots of money I know, but I'm willing to spend it for a permanent fix.
            When I do get the courage to remove the old shaft, I will take a measurement and a picture to show you guys how long it really is and try to determine if it is in fact a driveshaft that's too long or the pinon flange is just too close to the transmission tailshaft because of an unrelated problem with the car.
            Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
            Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #36
              Not sure about that but if you have a good local driveline shop they can probably just make you a good, balanced one-piece shaft.

              Comment


                #37
                I think you are over complicating things. You shouldn’t have any trouble getting the driveshaft in and out. Just take the rear four yolk bolts out, the driveshaft will drop and you pull it from the transmission. You can take it to a place that balances drive shafts and they will balance it for you. Problem solved. Also check to make sure that the yoke going into the transmission doesn’t have excessive play. The tail shaft bushing can wear out and cause a vibration
                -Phil

                sigpic

                +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                  ... Also check to make sure that the yoke going into the transmission doesn’t have excessive play. The tail shaft bushing can wear out and cause a vibration
                  Yup. Discovering excessive play in the past day put a big 'downer' on my aluminum driveshaft swap. Funny thing is that the vibration effect that had commenced awhile ago had not worsened in any discernible way, so I had no clue that something other than U-joints might have been getting worse and therefore need attention much sooner rather than later. So far as I know, people with really trashed U-joints don't describe anything more than needing new U-joints, so I thought the worst that would happen was that only the U-joints would continue to deteriorate.

                  2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                  mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Have it balanced, it will stop. I've had my car well beyond that speed and its fine. The original shook like an out of balance washing machine over 60 mph (or ~100 for you metric folk). One trick with the Towncar shaft, it includes a rubber damper arrangement up at the trans end. Its basically a harmonic balancer, a metal ring isolated from the shaft with a rubber collar. I have no idea what to do about replacing that should the ring slip, but if it did I would expect it to cause vibration problems. Could be thats what ails yours.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #40
                      It turns out that changing the bushing can actually be done without removing the extension housing like a lot of people do (and which would have been a bit much for me). There is a tool that gets inserted and expanded to be able to drive the bushing out using a slide hammer approach:



                      With the tool being expensive and most likely not available through a loan-a-tool, a trip to a shop would most likely be required. But, they should be able to do it relatively quickly, and it would probably be more economical to get it done that way rather than fight with the extension housing and cross-member.

                      Edit: A little off topic, but here's an interesting trick for getting bushings out of a sealed hole:

                      Last edited by IPreferDIY; 10-09-2019, 10:55 PM.

                      2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                      mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Learned that grease trick from AvE. He posted a blind bearing removal trick sometime in the past couple of years.

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                          I think you are over complicating things. You shouldn’t have any trouble getting the driveshaft in and out. Just take the rear four yolk bolts out, the driveshaft will drop and you pull it from the transmission. You can take it to a place that balances drive shafts and they will balance it for you. Problem solved. Also check to make sure that the yoke going into the transmission doesn’t have excessive play. The tail shaft bushing can wear out and cause a vibration
                          I really wish you were right But unfortunately it isn't that easy.
                          When I remove the four bolts holding my driveshaft to the pinion flange, it will not come out. It will not drop. It will not move up, down, side-to-side, except rotate when pried or beaten with a BFH. It will not slide forward at all. Last time I installed it, I had to cut down the pinion bolt flush to the nut to pound it in place with a BFH, and that took all day.
                          I've tried it with rear springs compressed, axle hanging, transmission crossmember in place, removed, etc.
                          After a lot of searching, it seems like this is a problem with old cars that have rear leaf springs installed backwards.
                          It also appears like no other panther mangs are having the same issue.
                          That's it, I'm cutting it out and getting a complete new, correct length shaft made. It's only $600 lol
                          Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
                          Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Must be the wrong length something. Thats the long tail trans from the factory and the long driveshaft so I don't know what parts could be swapped to make it not fit. Only possible thought, and this is a faint chance, your rear control arm bushings are so bad that the diff has slid forward some. Or maybe the motor mounts are wasted and the engine+trans has shifted backcwards some. You might be able to rig something involving a come-along around the axle tube to pull the diff towards the bumper and get enough clearance to drop things out. At that point the driveshaft could be shortened (or the real problem found) for less than a whole new driveshaft. Putting constant pressure on the pinion and the output shaft of the trans isn't any good for it. There is normally a good 1/2" or better that the driveshaft can slide into the transmission so if something has moved, its moved a fair bit.

                            I suppose inspecting the splines at the trans end on both the yoke and the trans would be worth doing too. If those are damaged it won't go together correctly. I don't think there is a shallow yoke shaft but maybe??
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #44
                              I got it out by letting the lower ends of the rear shocks go from the axle, with the car up on stands so the axle could hang as low as possible.
                              I also jacked up the driveshaft itself just ahead of the rear U joint and for kicks used a come-a-long to winch the axle rearward, though I'm not sure it really moved anywhere. Once I had tension on everything, I drove a prybar in between the pinion flange and driveshaft. With a few good whacks it broke free and I managed to get it clear of the pinion flange.
                              Then I had to drive it rearward from the transmission as the slip yoke was stuck onto the output shaft pretty good too.
                              The driveshaft is 61 1/8" long from the front of the balancer in the front to the pinion flange face. I have pictures of the measured driveshaft on my phone, but I haven't had much luck using gmn with my phone. I'll upload them to the gmn group on facebook shortly for those who are interested in looking at them.
                              Is that measurement for a box driveshaft correct? Or do I have a driveshaft out of something else there?
                              Last edited by nfldfordltd; 11-16-2019, 04:53 PM.
                              Summer car-> 1988 Lincoln Town Car, triple blue, 335,xxx km. New HO 5.0 in and running. Bought 2006/08/22. June 2017 PotM!
                              Winter vehicle-> 1995 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab 4x4, 284,xxx+km. AKA "Brutus" 460/E4OD/4.10 axles and 12 MPG. Bought 2019/08/14

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #45
                                manual unfortunately doesn't offer up measurements, but I can offer up part numbers. What would be nice to know are dimension A and C. That would give something to compare yours to what is proper but I have no idea what those numbers are supposed to be.Click image for larger version

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                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

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