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minnesota Idiot with a 86 crown vic.

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    minnesota Idiot with a 86 crown vic.

    Hello! I have recently dived into the world of panthers head first with no floaties with my recent purchase of a blue 1986 crown victoria with 5.0 efi and bare basic options. However, with me going against the norm of everybody my age buying a honda civic or buick I have ran into issues.

    The fuel pump failed, and I am replacing the fuel pressure regulator. Luckily for a MN car the only rust is in two spots in the trunk everything else is a breeze to unbolt. Except I can not get those fucking fuel lines to disconnect. I have the 5.99 autozone tool, and I managed to get my fuel filter lines off with it no issues, but the lines leading to the tank on the frame won't give in that easily or fall victim to a bumbling idiot's dumb luck!

    So what do you do with that metal tool? and how am I being a dumbass?

    Also while I'm asking stupid questions whats the best way to approach replacing the fuel pressure regulator? I see it appears to behind the intake, whats the best way to get at that?

    #2
    Can't help you with the other things you asked but if its got Tits or tires it will give you problems, Hondas and Buicks are no exception. Welcome aboard!
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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      #3
      Welcome!

      The tool you probably have is a quick disconnect tool. There is usually nothing quick about it! On your fuel tank you should have two clip style connectors like your fuel filter - no quick connect fitting or tool needed. Look for a plastic pin that pulls out. Once that's out, the lines just pull apart.

      Fuel pressure regulators don't fail that often. If your car was running ok before the fuel pump issue, you should be ok with keeping the one that's on there. When they do fail, the engine floods with gas and gas usually squirts out the top where the vacuum line attaches. It will barely run if at all. Had a Ranger do that once and raw fuel was coming out the tailpipe. Not sure how that didn't hydrolock.
      1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
      1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

      GMN Box Panther History
      Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
      Box Panther Production Numbers

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        #4
        yeah, hairpin clips at the fuel tank. Should be no tool involved other than a little screwdriver or a pick maybe.

        If you didn't get replacements, you'll want new seals for the fill pipe to tank and for the plate that the fuel pump hangs from. Neither take well to being disturbed.

        Change the fuel filter while you're in there. Not liable to have anything to do with anything, its just something people don't change that often. The FPR rarely quits. The only one I ever had go bad was an aftermarket fancy adjustable POS. I replaced it with a boring stock one and its been fine for years. The original one that I pulled off (and lost) to put on the fancy one was also fine.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #5
          Hmm well I popped out those clips and the lines weren't budging a bit. I am terrified of breaking the solid fuel lines.. Hmm would spraying wd40 or something similar help loosen up the crap in.there..Theres sandy dirt caked everywhere along the frame rail.

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            #6
            The passengers side popped off with ease..Drivers side being a stubborn ass bitch still... The damn line will spin but not come off.

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              #7
              wd40 won't hurt anything, give it a shot.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #8
                Got the tank down, pump in, original pump was missing its screen.It was a bosch pump. Put in my nos hanger assembly with mustang pump into it. Now we're struggling with those fucking straps.

                This whole job has been a Pain in the ass.

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                  #9
                  Got the tank down?? I don't know about 86 models but I've done several 90/91 CV's and the fuel pump can be replaced without dropping the tank.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by mcninetyone View Post
                    Got the tank down?? I don't know about 86 models but I've done several 90/91 CV's and the fuel pump can be replaced without dropping the tank.
                    90/91 (and all the way up to 2012) have the whole assembly in the front, 89 and down, and 90/91 wagons have the sending unit on the front and the pump on the back side. Only way to do it is drop the tank.
                    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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                      #11
                      Yeah pain in the arse. Any advice on straighting out those straps? Its a really tight squeeze. One of the studs came right out on the passenger side.

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                        #12
                        Jack and 2x4 on edge to press the strap to the tank and up against the car. Should help get the slack you need to get the bolts back in up top.

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                          #13
                          Dang, mental note to just keep buying '90+ panthers. Guess I just dumb-lucked this one!

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                            #14
                            I usually buy longer bolts and clamp them down harder on the straps. Original straps are a pain in teh butt on everything. Did you throw in an upgraded pump while you were in there....you know....just in case.

                            As a fellow younger generation guy (19) I can tell you, my car gets more compliments on the campus than the new camaros. Why? because not everyone has a car that can roll with 6 people in it comfortably. It really is the cruisers to parties. And my old towncar would put up a fight with a new v6 'maro, and was often louder. I could gun it and let those girls in the 'maros question themselves.

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                              #15
                              I went with a mustang pump by CNT racing.. people have put those through ungodly abuse. If it can survive active pressure tests at 100 psi I do believe it will last me a long time. Also it was made for the newer corn gas which I know is what roached my old pump. Couldn't find the strainer for the old pump. Either it melted or is that what is is clogged up the old fuel filter. The old pump was covered with residue and there was signs of wear on it. But honestly it wasn't rusted or looked that bad.

                              I may go about doing the longer bolt method since one of the studs came out like a bolt and that strap is bent from the tank landing on it. Also I found the only areas where the rust are on that car are those two trunk mounting points with the two holes behind the rear wheels. Well MN has some pretty sandy dirt.. well that crap got caught in there. Rusted it out.. Highly isolated.. Literally nothing. I see 2008 cars rolling into my work that are in far worse shape then my 30 year old boat. I do like the looks of the early panthers.. Honestly dealing with a PIA tank isn't so bad.. I just wish i wasn't working god damn late shifts this week. I had to take a day off to just get progress done on it. Been over 6 hours wrestling that tank and enough sand and dirt that fell on my head to make a freaking beach.

                              I really enjoy driving my crown vic. It's a very solid car that is comfy. We had an old lady come into work with a black 1989 a month before I bought mine, hers fully loaded husband maintained it.. I got dibs on driving that beast in and out of the shop. That planted the seed. Mine wasn't an LX, but I honestly prefer the basic cars. Every car with power windows I've owned has gone to shit in a week flat. The radio is starting to go on my poor vic. Not sure if I want to put in an aftermarket one (I got a double din touch screen unit with GPS, that I know if i was careful I could massage into the dash) or see if anybody here has a stock one knocking about. I would prefer to keep the car original... since putting in a new radio requires quite a bit of rewiring from what I have read.

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