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minnesota Idiot with a 86 crown vic.

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    #31
    Hmm! Learn something new everyday. Looking forward to working on my car. Down the line I may start looking at doing some simple performance mods to help the car in traffic a bit. I'm looking at bolt on stuff that doesn't require replacing everything or swapping out the motor. If i need to swap out the motor I'll be going to my hotrod buddies and seeing what parts they have left over from their 500HP+ builds.. But that will be a long ways away.

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      #32
      ^^^Having gearhead buddies that use the same kind of crap you have really makes a difference. Riding my brother's coattails, I'm getting the motor out of his mustang to build to my own liking since he's doing a turbo'd dart-block stroker. I could even go 5-speed if I wanted to because he's going auto but I just don't want anymore hassle than I'm already getting into. I also like the "luxury" aspect of having an auto, especially having to deal with stupidass southern California traffic. This place is one big red light pretty much, and people are fucking retarded. Saving my left leg for a weekend toy later on...

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        #33
        I have a direct ford guru who has a 1950 f-150 cranking out at least 550hp and he's thinks thats too low. So his next engine (build over the winter) he's shooting for 700 min. Yeah. This the guy who told me "If that fuel injection ever looks at you funny we could easily throw a carb on it in a weekend, so just bring it over." Knowing him I'd come back and the engine would be swapped out and I'd be going sideways down the road crapping myself as he's cackling like a maniac.

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          #34
          Welcome!
          '79 Continental Town Car
          '90 Crown Victoria LTD
          '94 Crown Victoria

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            #35
            Keep the fuel injection. Better mileage, tune-ability, and much easier to go forced induction should you choose to. If you're going to build a fun, NA stroker motor and economy or emissions are no matter, fuck it, carb it! I still dream of someday owning something just kinda silly with an 8-71 blower and 2 bigass 4-barrels on it. As of now, only have 1 car so I'm trying to balance fun and "practical". Now driving my work truck from home so it's a little easier to fuck with the car now and not have to worry as much. Walk the kids to school about 10 minutes away, unless it rains.

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              #36
              Yeah I'm trying my best to keep the EFI happy. The car is really fucky recently. Just had that classic new used car shovel to the head with issues thing after 600 miles of clear perfect driving... Now i've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter. Issues with the car are leaving me feeling a bit.. ill and unsure. All of the problems point to either the TFI (Most likely the culprit the one on there now is an aftermarket one with a blank face...) or its the fuel pump relay.. Or the distributor pickup.. If it is the TFi or the fuel pump that will be an easy replacement. For the pick up if its that I sent an offer to a guy on eBay who is selling a 1990 crown victoria distributor with a rotorcraft TFI attached to it.. looks stock and the car had some variation of 45,000 miles on it. Either thats 45k 145k 245k or 345k I have no idea. I'm hoping its the first one.. if i can get it for 35 even having an extra distributor isn't a bad deal since around here in the junkyards you never see these cars. Older cars don't last long in MN.. and they're always scrapped not picked apart. Cash for clunkers took out so many cars around here.

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                #37
                Been working hard. Ive replaced the TFI, the ignition coil, fuel pump fuel filter. After all of these I took the car for a spin, and it die on me. Started right up again.

                Weird? I thought as I brought the car back home. I think proceeded to start it up again I noticed my. Power steering was low so I filled it up (making sure to not go over the line.) and turned the wheel with the car running. It stalled.

                I looked this up on google. Found the same issue on a mustang forum where a few members were very prominent about cleaning the IAC valve which the person who posted the question wasnt sure WTF that had to do with it.

                I figured it couldn't hurt. So I took it off. I find out that it has never been removed from the car before. So I peer into it after the gasket flaked away into dust. Hey it doesn't look that bad. The O-rings dont look bad....

                For those of you who know this part you know there no visible o-rings in it. I was seeing 30 years of crap stuck to it. After spraying in fluids, and about 30 Q-tip that looked like I lit them on fire, I learned just how fucking filthy that part was. Every little hole was covered by crap, the fluid was coming out black. It was horrifying. I got it clean now.

                Instead of getting a single gasket. I decided to get a tune up kit with all the gaskets. So I think Im going to just take apart the intake and clean everything.

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                  #38
                  good luck with that. All I've ever done is hose out the ports from inside the throttle body. Sometimes I take the motor off the valve via those 2 screws that hold it together and actuate the plunger manually while I spray carb cleaner in there. Then I wipe out the TB around the throttle valve and call it good. Done that twice on my 88. Never on any 4.6L. I did have to clean the EGR channels once on the 93's original engine. But that's another story.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                    #39
                    Yeah when I first got the '90 it was doing some really bizarre things idle-wise when cold. Replaced IAC, still did it, fixed a HUGE vacuum leak, did it less, replace IAT sensor, same deal. Haven't done another vacuum leak search yet but I also figure i'll throw an ECT sensor at it, but it runs much better than before. Still just gutless and depressing after being around the mustang again...damn I miss having one.

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                      #40
                      Took it for a spin.. Tested it out. Fucking ran like a top. Until I got to a wider then normal turn that was one of those ones close to somebody's house. So I let off the gas and let the car turn. It stalled out of the turn.

                      Fuck!

                      Won't start up in one crank.

                      Get out open hood. Shits all over the fan. Fuck! Fuck! Fuck! Is it coolant? Sniff sniff No.. Okay thank god. Its not coolant. I look around at what pulley is wet. Powersteering pump is covered. The belt is wet and its covering the back of the pulley. Sniff sniff. Yupe power steering.

                      The whine I thought was the alternator, the low fluid, the belt squeal. The ability to kill the car by turning the wheel before I cleaned the IAC. Theres a leak in the system. Gut says the pump's roached. I mean its spewing out fluid at such a rate its covering my freaking fan.

                      I don't have the time, or money to throw at it. I'm gonna have to suck it up and take it to a shop. Good news the car can drive there. Im gonna have to throw it on a credit card and try to pay it off next pay period. Because I am out of time and options.

                      I have fixed the "random" elements of the stalling. Now the culprit is obvious. So it should be easier now... I hope. I really fucking do hope so. Sigh.

                      Oh yeah I couldn't get the cover off of the intake manifold so I am saving that for another day. After I get this crap fixed and when its warmer then 40 degrees. One of the screws is stripped too. I really do not like philips screws for this very reason...
                      Last edited by DrHax; 03-04-2016, 02:49 AM.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by DrHax View Post
                        ...Get out open hood. Shits all over the fan. Fuck! Fuck! Fuck! Is it coolant? Sniff sniff No.. Okay thank god. Its not coolant. I look around at what pulley is wet. Powersteering pump is covered. The belt is wet and its covering the back of the pulley. Sniff sniff. Yupe power steering.

                        The whine I thought was the alternator, the low fluid, the belt squeal. The ability to kill the car by turning the wheel before I cleaned the IAC. Theres a leak in the system. Gut says the pump's roached. I mean its spewing out fluid at such a rate its covering my freaking fan.

                        I don't have the time, or money to throw at it. I'm gonna have to suck it up and take it to a shop. Good news the car can drive there. Im gonna have to throw it on a credit card and try to pay it off next pay period. Because I am out of time and options.

                        I have fixed the "random" elements of the stalling. Now the culprit is obvious. So it should be easier now... I hope. I really fucking do hope so. Sigh.

                        Oh yeah I couldn't get the cover off of the intake manifold so I am saving that for another day. After I get this crap fixed and when its warmer then 40 degrees. One of the screws is stripped too. I really do not like philips screws for this very reason...
                        It does sound like your pump is dead. I found out that trying to steer the car without the engine running will cause fluid to geyser out from the little air vent at the top of the cap, making a mess everywhere in the process. Sounds like your car is doing the same thing despite it actually running so perhaps the internals are all goofed up. IAC working properly probably can't compensate fast enough for the extra drag. I take those things off, take them apart (take the motor off) and work the plunger while spraying carb & choke cleaner or brake cleaner in there until it comes back clean. If the plunger sticks at all after that I throw that one away and find one that doesn't. Then I put some chainlube in the motor & a little on the plunger, put it all back together and call it good. Even new units need that; I swapped out my old one that was acting wonky for a new in the box motorcraft one only to have it do the same thing. Doing the above procedure to a junkyard part caused my problems to go away. I must have 3 or 4 IAC spares now lol.

                        As for those screws... I think they're Phillips head #1's, so find the one that fits the best and give the handle a good whap with a hammer to shock the corrosion loose and that should help. I've had good luck using Phillips head bits with 1/4" ratchets too, seems the screw drivers always want to pop out and strip the heads of the screws but usually that's not so with the ratchet set-up.
                        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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                          #42
                          In my line of work I frequently run into stuck screws of all varieties. If you have one, use a cordless impact driver. I put some weight on it and barely touch the trigger to get it to impact and turn slowly. Usually breaks them loose pretty easy. I've also heard people that put Loctite in the screw head to help get some bite but never tried it before.

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                            #43
                            I have an impact hammer. The manual type which I used to free vw bug doors. They used oversized philips..

                            I am hoping to get the car in today and see what they say. Online qoutes the repair between 215-265 with apparently the ford dealership being one that will.honour that. Honestly I do not that dealership after they sent me. 1 and. 1/2 hours way for the wrong god damn fucking part.

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                              #44
                              The intake plaque on my '88 has torx screws. And they suck. Buy some good torx sockets with lifetime warranty. I broke 3 torx bits before getting 3 screws loose and breaking one off. Dear Ford - use anti seize when steel screws meet aluminum.
                              1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                              GMN Box Panther History
                              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                              Box Panther Production Numbers

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                                #45
                                Whack the bits with a hammer before trying to spin them. Might help break it loose, if nothing else it will make sure the bit is fully seated into the screw head and reduce the chances it will strip out. They are a bastard if they haven't been out in a long time tho.

                                and yeah, intake plates are T20 I believe. Torx, whatever size it is.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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