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Thread: 88 Marquis big brake and suspension upgrade advice

  1. #1
    Member Elias's Avatar
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    Default 88 Marquis big brake and suspension upgrade advice

    I have a 1988 Mercury Marquis I want to do the big brake upgrade let me know if I'm missing something

    1994 Marquis upper and lower arm
    1998 Marquis spindle
    1998 Marquis moog upper and lower ball joints
    1998 Marquis brake calipers
    1988 Marquis control arm bushing (does it matter or do I need moog)

    What else am I missing and would I need to get the 88 Marquis coil or do I need the 1998 coil. I'm gonna start it in a few weeks just trying to make sure I have everything I need. Any advice would help thanks

  2. #2
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    Actually if you want polyurethane bushings you want a kit for '92-up, the older ones are only available in rubber. Energy Suspension makes those for sure, Prothane may have them also.

    Keep your factory coils if you like your current ride height. Keep your lower arms too, no need to change them.

    Check if XRF make ball joints for your application. Moog has been somewhat flakey lately, infortunately their prices did not change to reflect that.
    Last edited by His Royal Ghostliness; 03-18-2016 at 03:38 AM.
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    Pads --> my recommendation CENTRIC 10607480 Posi-Quiet Extended Wear; w/Hardware & Shims
    Rotors
    Brake hoses
    sae to metric fitting adapters or make new lines.

    Make sure you check the hose travel at full drop, stop to stop.

    May want new sway bar links.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  4. #4

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    I did this swap about three years ago. And from what I remember your 1988 lower arm, bushing and ball joint will work just fine, no need for 98 stuff there.
    The 94 upper control arm bushings will work just fine too.
    You will need the 98-02 caliper brackets.
    98-02 brake hoses from a non ABS car, and fittings to adapt your hard brake lines to the 98-02 rubber brake hoses.
    All this stuff can come from a CV or a GM, doesn't matter.
    I think all this is right?

  5. #5
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    What is the polyurethane bushings. I wanted to replace all the bushing since it's all apart. Oo i forgot about the brake lines would it be easy to conect the factory lines to the 98. And the sway bar would be from the 98 also right

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    You can use either the old or new sway. If you keep the existing sway the I suggest new links. Probably should look at the bushings while you are there.

    You can use suspension parts from a Town Car as well as a CV or GM .

    I seem to remember needing the later year lower ball joint to connect properly to the new spindle.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

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    You don't need to change the lower control arm, but you do need to replace the ball joint with a 95?+.

    Do poly bushings while your in there, do em once and never need to mess with them again unlike the aftermarket rubber bushings which last 5 years at best.

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    I guess energy suspension the one that sells the poly bushings kit
    Any good brand on ball joints would help thanks everyone

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    HRG recommended XRF. Never tried them myself.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

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    You will also need the caliper bracket and the hub bearing, as well as the previously mentioned hoses, caliper, rotor and pads. 16" wheels too, just in case you didn't know that part.

    I've used the Energy Suspension bushings on things. They work fine. Don't be afraid to use the grease, and maybe get some extra. If you don't use enough it will tend to squeak and groan.

    New self-locking nuts for the upper control arms would be a good thing. I recycled them once and they didn't keep in position. They would screw in and out as the suspension moved up and down. I forget what the thread is, but you can get them from McMaster or Fastenal or wherever you buy hardware.

    I've had the same McQuay-Norris front end parts on my car for years now, no idea if they even still exist though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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    Quote Originally Posted by pantera77 View Post
    You don't need to change the lower control arm, but you do need to replace the ball joint with a 95?+.
    Yeah, you need 98 up lower ball joints because the threaded stem is shorter and fits the 98 spindle correctly.
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  13. #13
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    Spindles are the same 1995-2002. Same lower ball joint as well.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #14
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    Energy Suspension bushings are great, but the supplied grease IMHO has no business anywhere near where road grime can be encountered. I've had equally good (for longevity and quietness) results using synthetic grease, it also makes installing the bushings easier (it slides instead of sticking like the ENS-supplied goop). Everything in my truck's front end is ENS covered with SylGlide or whatever, there's not a squeak to be heard even when giving the suspension a serious workout, and there's apparently zero wear despite the ridiculous weight them bushings carry.

    Balljoints, McQuay-Norris is the bomb-diggidy, if you can find them - they still show up as surplus here and there, but I think they are no longer in production. XRF is what the truck crowd that works the heck outta their vehicles have been raving about for a while now. Personally I've never used them, all my current junk runs kingpins, and my older stuff always got the McQuay-Norris (back then they were on the shelf at Pep-Boys, but you did pay a premium for them). Oddly enough AutoZone used to carry some fiercely good ball joints in their Duralast brand, but that was years ago. Then they had a period where quaity went down big time, which apparently caused mass returns and warranty claims. So they're back to better suppliers now, IIRC the current Duralast manufacturer is actually Moog.
    Last edited by His Royal Ghostliness; 03-19-2016 at 12:09 AM.
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    There a lot off stuff there 👊🏼

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    So I checked o'relim and they have 2 different energy suspension bushing ones that are black and ones that are red what's the difference. And what do y'all think of genuine motor craft ball joints and bushing are they worse than energy suspension stuff. Thanks everyone one for the heads up

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elias View Post
    So I checked o'relim and they have 2 different energy suspension bushing ones that are black and ones that are red what's the difference. And what do y'all think of genuine motor craft ball joints and bushing are they worse than energy suspension stuff. Thanks everyone one for the heads up

    And I rebuilt my suspension like 6 years ago with parts for Autozone don't want that to do that again.

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    And I was thinking about putting the 03 Mercury marauder rims on it. I seen a 2 door Marquis online with them they look really nice

  19. #19
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    The difference between red and black bushings is the color. No, I'm serious, that's all there is - some people like sertain things to stand out (like brightly-colored brake calipers), while some like their stuff to look more OEM, so ENS makes a kit for each of those applications. Used to be other colors too, yellow and blue for example, but I haven't seen those in a long long while, especially the yellow.

    Genuine OEM Motorcraft ball joints are good. I mean they obviously lasted you that long, right? Bushings I'd be a bit on the fence about, the newers car that used them is nowadays still 14 years old, so you are buying rubber components that have been sitting on a shelf for over a decade. Most likely there's nothing wrong with them, but still, something to consider.

    Also I personally prefer the polyurethane setup: #1 it's way easier to install, #2 it's stiffer than factory bushings so control arms don't move around as much and handling is more precise, and #3 it doesn't care if it gets soaked in oil from the engine (or the PS pump). On the other hand you tend to feel the road more, which in some cases can mean nasty vibration felt at the steering wheel, also they tend to make the ride somewhat harsher. Honestly if that were my car I'd do the front in polyurethane, and the rear I'd probably do half and half, like poly on the axle side of the control arms and rubber on the frame side.

    The Marauder wheels, the '03 chassis uses wheels that have different offset from what you got, they are deeper on th inside than yours. MEaning if you install the Marauder wheels straight onto your axles they will sit too far in, and may rub on stuff. You can, however, install wheel spacers that fix that issue, there are even some folks on here who've done that so they can run wheels Mustang or Lincoln Mk7 wheels. The key is to buy quality spacers, you really want them bo be both hub-centric (they pilot on the axle's hub) and wheel-centric (they have a lip for the wheel to pilot on). And those tend to not be very cheap, so factor their cost in your total wheel & tire upgrade budget.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

  20. #20
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The black ones usually ship faster than the red.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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