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Thread: 88 Marquis big brake and suspension upgrade advice

  1. #121
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    sorry for the hijacking but... how about lubrication for RUBBER upper control arm bushings. I reused the ones that came with my BB upper arms, and over large speed bumps there's a lot of bushing noise coming from them. not sure if theres anything i can safely lubricate them with that will work its way in.

    Also I recommend the HD springs, I will get a physical measurement for you with original HD springs in a bit.
    -Phil



    +'82 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, 2bbl 2150 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. 86 Valve Body Baumann Shift kit.
    +1975 Maverick- Fuel injected 302, Trickflow 170 heads, XE270 cam, explorer intakes, 24# injectors, custom tune. T5 transmission, 3.55 Yukon Trac-Lok rear.
    +1989 Mercury Colony Park "Large Marge" Lopo 302. 3.55L K-Code Tow package, Baumann Shift Kit, Big brake swap, rear discs, HO intake/TB, custom exhaust.

  2. #122
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The two never shall meet. Oil turns rubber back into oil. If they're making noise either the nuts are loose and things are moving, or the rubber has seperated from the shell. I had problems with the nuts on mine, they were moving as the suspension moved and the creaking was actually the nut turning on the cross shaft. Had to replace them with new self-lockers to fix that. Worth a look.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #123
    Member Giraffe's Avatar
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    What about a silicone-based lubricant?
    —John

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - getting her back in shape (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang Cobra coupe - keeping it simple
    1966 Mustang coupe - soon-to-be project: no longer buried in junk; out of the garage!

  4. #124
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    Or graphite based? I'll look at them, i never touched the nuts though
    -Phil



    +'82 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, 2bbl 2150 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. 86 Valve Body Baumann Shift kit.
    +1975 Maverick- Fuel injected 302, Trickflow 170 heads, XE270 cam, explorer intakes, 24# injectors, custom tune. T5 transmission, 3.55 Yukon Trac-Lok rear.
    +1989 Mercury Colony Park "Large Marge" Lopo 302. 3.55L K-Code Tow package, Baumann Shift Kit, Big brake swap, rear discs, HO intake/TB, custom exhaust.

  5. #125
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
    sorry for the hijacking but... how about lubrication for RUBBER upper control arm bushings.
    The rubber bushings are thermo-chemically bonded to both inner sleeve and outer shell. Both of these are (or should be) stationary, the outer shell being pressed into the control arm and he inner sleeve being clamped onto by the frame ears by ways of the long 14mm bolt. What happens as the suspension cycles is the bushing twists within itself, it's an elastic deformation of the rubber not actual rotating motion of it with respect to the metal bits. As you can imagine there's only so much of that a bushing can take, I've seen 2-y-o Moog bushings separate from the outer shell and start trning inside it like poly does. The problem here is that Poly bushings have a taller rim/step molded into them on one side to keep the control arm from sliding onto them axially, rubber bushings have no such thing since, again, they are bonded to the steel parts and thus allow no axial motion. So when a rubber bushing lets go of the sleeve or the shell, it allows the control arm to slide fore-aft along its axis of rotation (which is formed by the bolts), and eventually make contact with the frame. Maybe that's the noise you're hearing?

    In any case, once a rubber bushing has de-bonded from the sleeve or shell it's done for and needs to be replaced. Or, some end spacers can be machined out of poly to around the bushing and on each end of the control arm between the arm and the frame ears, those will stop the arm from sliding fore-aft and limit it to just rotation around the bushing, same as with full poly bushings.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
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  6. #126
    Member Elias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
    sorry for the hijacking but... how about lubrication for RUBBER upper control arm bushings. I reused the ones that came with my BB upper arms, and over large speed bumps there's a lot of bushing noise coming from them. not sure if theres anything i can safely lubricate them with that will work its way in.

    Also I recommend the HD springs, I will get a physical measurement for you with original HD springs in a bit.
    YEAH that would be great i think im leaning towards the hd or town spring i dont want a monster car lol or to stiff that i can fell every bump in the road. Just 1-2 inches taller. Since on mine the back looks every high want to level is off a bit.

  7. #127
    Member Elias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I'm just using whatever the stock replacement one is. Mind you that Towncars and Grand Marq run different springs. Townie spring rate is higher, 422 in/lb vs 390 or something, not sure on the free height. Lincolns weigh more though so stiffer springs. Another thing to know is that if the control arm bolts are cranked down with the suspension at full droop, it will sit high and ride hard until the control arm bushings fail and then it goes back to normal height with shot bushings. The bolts must be torqued with weight on the suspension or the bushings will not be in the correct position and they will fail quickly.

    Ride height measurements are in the factory shop manual, which I don't have in front of me. Its a measurement from the bottom of the bumper to ground I think.

    Not sure if any of this helps but this is all the factory spring spec stuff, based on the spring code on your door sticker. Spring codes are the last box on the right, in that row of assorted things at the bottom of the sticker.
    How much more do the towncars weight compared to the sedans? If the towncar are rated at 422 what are the hd rated at
    Last edited by Elias; 12-30-2017 at 10:10 PM.

  8. #128
    Cheese Nazi phayzer5's Avatar
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    For reference, bumper height measurements (in mm?) for sedans/wagons, Mercs, and Lincolns from my 1980 manuals

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    RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

    '80 Town Coupé
    '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
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  9. #129
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elias View Post
    How much more do the towncars weight compared to the sedans? If the towncar are rated at 422 what are the hd rated at

    ~300 lbs or so.

    Not sure what the replacement springs are rated at, but going off the OE spring info chart it seems that most are the same rate but with different load ratings. Based on that I'll guess that the height of the springs are what is different, not so much the spring rate. Unfortunately the OEM spring data isn't given in the same way as aftermarket springs so I don't know how to directly compare them.

    this is the same chart for an 88 Towncar. As you can see the factory had a crapload of different possible springs on these cars, in the aftermarket world you don't have anywhere near the same options.
    Attached Files Attached Files

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #130
    Member Elias's Avatar
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    Talking

    Im officially excited now pick up the rest of the stuff i need for the big brake swap now i only need the bushing, the coils and the brake line adapter. Also got a fender corner light amd a oem antenna because mine was broken now i have to figure how to put the antenna in
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  11. #131
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    comes out through the inner fender. Power antenna is a PITA, manual isn't too hard.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #132
    Member Elias's Avatar
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    What pads and rotors do y’all recommend. Are the slotted and drilling rotor any good or worth the price i was looking at these on rockauto the price i way different but are they better for a daily driver car. Any one have these. The other one doesn’t have a picture they probably the same i dont know
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  13. #133
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    I just have stock rotors and good pads (Hawk HPS). Slotted are good for displacing water/dirt. Drilled are great for cracking. For a daily... I would just go with stock rotors. But I'm not you, so if you want that look... go for it.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
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  14. #134
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I've had the same standard rotors on my car for 10 years. Pads on there I think are still the Performance Friction I put on when the thing was converted way back when, and they're not worn out yet. May replace them this spring because the anti-rattle clips are worn out and keep moving on me though. I have a set of Wagner ThermoQuiet pads to install at that time.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  15. #135
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    I recommend anything with a GG friction rating...no less. They don't often advertise the friction ratings of pads, which i think is ridiculous. I've used Raybestos Element3 "hybrid" pads on a couple vehicles, including a big brake swap car with excellent results. Good feel, good bite cold and hot. GG friction rating. Choosing the wrong, or right pads can change the feel of a braking system completely. Also had great luck with Porterfield R4S pads, they are pricey though, and a carbon/kevlar mix, compared to the Raybestos Carbon/ceramic.

    Also what sly said about the rotors. I recommend plan rotors, but if you want slotted for "street cred" then go for it, but don't get drilled.
    -Phil



    +'82 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, 2bbl 2150 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. 86 Valve Body Baumann Shift kit.
    +1975 Maverick- Fuel injected 302, Trickflow 170 heads, XE270 cam, explorer intakes, 24# injectors, custom tune. T5 transmission, 3.55 Yukon Trac-Lok rear.
    +1989 Mercury Colony Park "Large Marge" Lopo 302. 3.55L K-Code Tow package, Baumann Shift Kit, Big brake swap, rear discs, HO intake/TB, custom exhaust.

  16. #136
    Member Elias's Avatar
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    My es bushing �������� came in today also started cleaning up the calipers and brakets for paintings one is cleaned and sanded and one is not touched yet probably go with a blue color to match my blue dash clusters lights. Last thing left would be the new brakes hoses and ball joints. Im going with these xrj ball joints someone recommend them i don’t remember who it was. Ooo and the hd springs still haven’t got them yet.
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  17. #137
    Member Elias's Avatar
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    I painted the caliper and brakets today with vht blue caliper paint primed it first with high tem primer. hope it dont peel Looks good i think
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