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88 Marquis big brake and suspension upgrade advice

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    88 Marquis big brake and suspension upgrade advice

    I have a 1988 Mercury Marquis I want to do the big brake upgrade let me know if I'm missing something

    1994 Marquis upper and lower arm
    1998 Marquis spindle
    1998 Marquis moog upper and lower ball joints
    1998 Marquis brake calipers
    1988 Marquis control arm bushing (does it matter or do I need moog)

    What else am I missing and would I need to get the 88 Marquis coil or do I need the 1998 coil. I'm gonna start it in a few weeks just trying to make sure I have everything I need. Any advice would help thanks

    #2
    Actually if you want polyurethane bushings you want a kit for '92-up, the older ones are only available in rubber. Energy Suspension makes those for sure, Prothane may have them also.

    Keep your factory coils if you like your current ride height. Keep your lower arms too, no need to change them.

    Check if XRF make ball joints for your application. Moog has been somewhat flakey lately, infortunately their prices did not change to reflect that.
    Last edited by His Royal Ghostliness; 03-18-2016, 03:38 AM.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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      #3
      Pads --> my recommendation CENTRIC 10607480 Posi-Quiet Extended Wear; w/Hardware & Shims
      Rotors
      Brake hoses
      sae to metric fitting adapters or make new lines.

      Make sure you check the hose travel at full drop, stop to stop.

      May want new sway bar links.
      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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        #4
        I did this swap about three years ago. And from what I remember your 1988 lower arm, bushing and ball joint will work just fine, no need for 98 stuff there.
        The 94 upper control arm bushings will work just fine too.
        You will need the 98-02 caliper brackets.
        98-02 brake hoses from a non ABS car, and fittings to adapt your hard brake lines to the 98-02 rubber brake hoses.
        All this stuff can come from a CV or a GM, doesn't matter.
        I think all this is right?

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          #5
          What is the polyurethane bushings. I wanted to replace all the bushing since it's all apart. Oo i forgot about the brake lines would it be easy to conect the factory lines to the 98. And the sway bar would be from the 98 also right

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            #6
            You can use either the old or new sway. If you keep the existing sway the I suggest new links. Probably should look at the bushings while you are there.

            You can use suspension parts from a Town Car as well as a CV or GM .

            I seem to remember needing the later year lower ball joint to connect properly to the new spindle.
            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

            Comment


              #7
              You don't need to change the lower control arm, but you do need to replace the ball joint with a 95?+.

              Do poly bushings while your in there, do em once and never need to mess with them again unlike the aftermarket rubber bushings which last 5 years at best.
              2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
              2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
              2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
              1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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                #8
                I guess energy suspension the one that sells the poly bushings kit
                Any good brand on ball joints would help thanks everyone

                Comment


                  #9
                  HRG recommended XRF. Never tried them myself.
                  03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                  02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                  08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                  12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You will also need the caliper bracket and the hub bearing, as well as the previously mentioned hoses, caliper, rotor and pads. 16" wheels too, just in case you didn't know that part.

                    I've used the Energy Suspension bushings on things. They work fine. Don't be afraid to use the grease, and maybe get some extra. If you don't use enough it will tend to squeak and groan.

                    New self-locking nuts for the upper control arms would be a good thing. I recycled them once and they didn't keep in position. They would screw in and out as the suspension moved up and down. I forget what the thread is, but you can get them from McMaster or Fastenal or wherever you buy hardware.

                    I've had the same McQuay-Norris front end parts on my car for years now, no idea if they even still exist though.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #11
                      http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post377308
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                        #12
                        Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                        You don't need to change the lower control arm, but you do need to replace the ball joint with a 95?+.
                        Yeah, you need 98 up lower ball joints because the threaded stem is shorter and fits the 98 spindle correctly.
                        2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                        89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                        88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                        I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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                          #13
                          Spindles are the same 1995-2002. Same lower ball joint as well.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Energy Suspension bushings are great, but the supplied grease IMHO has no business anywhere near where road grime can be encountered. I've had equally good (for longevity and quietness) results using synthetic grease, it also makes installing the bushings easier (it slides instead of sticking like the ENS-supplied goop). Everything in my truck's front end is ENS covered with SylGlide or whatever, there's not a squeak to be heard even when giving the suspension a serious workout, and there's apparently zero wear despite the ridiculous weight them bushings carry.

                            Balljoints, McQuay-Norris is the bomb-diggidy, if you can find them - they still show up as surplus here and there, but I think they are no longer in production. XRF is what the truck crowd that works the heck outta their vehicles have been raving about for a while now. Personally I've never used them, all my current junk runs kingpins, and my older stuff always got the McQuay-Norris (back then they were on the shelf at Pep-Boys, but you did pay a premium for them). Oddly enough AutoZone used to carry some fiercely good ball joints in their Duralast brand, but that was years ago. Then they had a period where quaity went down big time, which apparently caused mass returns and warranty claims. So they're back to better suppliers now, IIRC the current Duralast manufacturer is actually Moog.
                            Last edited by His Royal Ghostliness; 03-19-2016, 12:09 AM.
                            The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                            The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              There a lot off stuff there 👊🏼

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