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88 Marquis big brake and suspension upgrade advice

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    #16
    So I checked o'relim and they have 2 different energy suspension bushing ones that are black and ones that are red what's the difference. And what do y'all think of genuine motor craft ball joints and bushing are they worse than energy suspension stuff. Thanks everyone one for the heads up

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      #17
      Originally posted by Elias View Post
      So I checked o'relim and they have 2 different energy suspension bushing ones that are black and ones that are red what's the difference. And what do y'all think of genuine motor craft ball joints and bushing are they worse than energy suspension stuff. Thanks everyone one for the heads up

      And I rebuilt my suspension like 6 years ago with parts for Autozone don't want that to do that again.

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        #18
        And I was thinking about putting the 03 Mercury marauder rims on it. I seen a 2 door Marquis online with them they look really nice

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          #19
          The difference between red and black bushings is the color. No, I'm serious, that's all there is - some people like sertain things to stand out (like brightly-colored brake calipers), while some like their stuff to look more OEM, so ENS makes a kit for each of those applications. Used to be other colors too, yellow and blue for example, but I haven't seen those in a long long while, especially the yellow.

          Genuine OEM Motorcraft ball joints are good. I mean they obviously lasted you that long, right? Bushings I'd be a bit on the fence about, the newers car that used them is nowadays still 14 years old, so you are buying rubber components that have been sitting on a shelf for over a decade. Most likely there's nothing wrong with them, but still, something to consider.

          Also I personally prefer the polyurethane setup: #1 it's way easier to install, #2 it's stiffer than factory bushings so control arms don't move around as much and handling is more precise, and #3 it doesn't care if it gets soaked in oil from the engine (or the PS pump). On the other hand you tend to feel the road more, which in some cases can mean nasty vibration felt at the steering wheel, also they tend to make the ride somewhat harsher. Honestly if that were my car I'd do the front in polyurethane, and the rear I'd probably do half and half, like poly on the axle side of the control arms and rubber on the frame side.

          The Marauder wheels, the '03 chassis uses wheels that have different offset from what you got, they are deeper on th inside than yours. MEaning if you install the Marauder wheels straight onto your axles they will sit too far in, and may rub on stuff. You can, however, install wheel spacers that fix that issue, there are even some folks on here who've done that so they can run wheels Mustang or Lincoln Mk7 wheels. The key is to buy quality spacers, you really want them bo be both hub-centric (they pilot on the axle's hub) and wheel-centric (they have a lip for the wheel to pilot on). And those tend to not be very cheap, so factor their cost in your total wheel & tire upgrade budget.
          The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
          The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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            #20
            The black ones usually ship faster than the red.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #21
              Why is that?
              Originally posted by Elias View Post
              And I rebuilt my suspension like 6 years ago with parts for Autozone don't want that to do that again.

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                #22
                control arm bushings... ball joints... pain in the ass, back, neck, knees, hands, shoulders, elbows... your whole self will hurt afterwards if it's your first rodeo.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #23
                  McQuay-Norris was the OEM supplier to all Studebaker/Packard vehicles.......I still have a bag of bushings from 50 years ago, the last time I changed over the upper and lower A-Frame bushings....after 50 years the edges are just starting to show fraying at the shaft periphery..that being said I believe McQuay is out of business?
                  Originally posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
                  Energy Suspension bushings are great, but the supplied grease IMHO has no business anywhere near where road grime can be encountered. I've had equally good (for longevity and quietness) results using synthetic grease, it also makes installing the bushings easier (it slides instead of sticking like the ENS-supplied goop). Everything in my truck's front end is ENS covered with SylGlide or whatever, there's not a squeak to be heard even when giving the suspension a serious workout, and there's apparently zero wear despite the ridiculous weight them bushings carry.

                  Balljoints, McQuay-Norris is the bomb-diggidy, if you can find them - they still show up as surplus here and there, but I think they are no longer in production. XRF is what the truck crowd that works the heck outta their vehicles have been raving about for a while now. Personally I've never used them, all my current junk runs kingpins, and my older stuff always got the McQuay-Norris (back then they were on the shelf at Pep-Boys, but you did pay a premium for them). Oddly enough AutoZone used to carry some fiercely good ball joints in their Duralast brand, but that was years ago. Then they had a period where quaity went down big time, which apparently caused mass returns and warranty claims. So they're back to better suppliers now, IIRC the current Duralast manufacturer is actually Moog.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Sly I assume the job to be "easier" if effectuated on a lift with a ball joint/spring stationary jack?
                    Originally posted by sly View Post
                    control arm bushings... ball joints... pain in the ass, back, neck, knees, hands, shoulders, elbows... your whole self will hurt afterwards if it's your first rodeo.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      The trick with the lowers is that the lower arm must be supported. Unless you've got really tall stands to let the car sit on while on a lift, you sort of can't not do them close to the ground. If you remove that lower ball joint without supporting the arm it will fly out of there with enough force to remove your head if you get in the way of it.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by Toploader View Post
                        Sly I assume the job to be "easier" if effectuated on a lift with a ball joint/spring stationary jack?
                        That helps, but a really good impact, long breaker bar, pickle fork, air hammer, up the center spring compressor, hardened impact torx bit for the rear control arm bolts (Still haven't managed to break those bastards free on either of my cars), and a torch help more. Getting enough room for a cheater bar on the breaker with a lift will make things easier. The springs are actually the least of your worries when you have a good spring compressor on them. The rear springs are no worry at all.

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          If your brake lines are in good shape (hard lines that is) then purchase the adapters. http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Tool-04001...-/190856703815

                          You need these adaptors if using the stock hard lines because the new brake hoses are ISO flared while your existing hard lines are double flared. No worky...so thread these buggers into the new rubber lines and thread the existing hard line into the adaptor and bobs your uncle.

                          If your brake lines are in need of replacing then make up new ones with metric bubble flares on the brake sides and standard double flare on the proportioning valve side.


                          And sly, I stripped out two ratchets trying to remove the torx on the diff....heat is good. went well after some fire.
                          Last edited by 87gtVIC; 03-19-2016, 06:54 PM.
                          ~David~

                          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                          Originally posted by ootdega
                          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                          Comment


                            #28
                            Torx bolts are bullshit. Thats all I can say about that.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #29
                              They are. No clue why they were used in that location...

                              But seriously I wrecked two ratchets and the damned duralast torx bit did not break.. It was a Snap on ratchet and a Husky. WTF.
                              ~David~

                              My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                              My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                              Originally posted by ootdega
                              My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                              Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                              But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                                Torx bolts are bullshit. Thats all I can say about that.
                                Actually I love torx bolts, if used in the right locations - they are much harder to booger-up the heads as compared to allen bolts, and best of all you can go at them from a slight angle if clearance is an issue. But yeah, in the rear UCAs location their use is not warranted IMHO.
                                The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                                The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                                Comment

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