1984 Country Squire the USS Drift Wood

[Master Shake]

Hello, everyone. Figured I'd rather keep my progress/questions/rambling all in one thread.



So this is the car I bought a few weeks back. Got a crazy good deal on it and the thing runs too. Doesn't run too great, but it runs. This is a 1984 Country Squire that spent most of its life in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida and occasionally came out to New Jersey. Being a Florida car the body is in an amazing shape. There is no rust on the under-body, frame or the wheel wells. However, there is rust on the bottom of all 4 doors, it's not awful but it's definitely there, and there's rust on the door jam right under the A-pillar, ate a hole right through. All things considered, it's a very solid car.

Now the mechanics of it, leave a lot to be desired. The engine can't make up its mind about the whole idling thing, the rear end wheel bearings are on strike, and the automatic transmission is just sadistic. Miraculously, most of the electronics work, including the power windows, locks, driver's seat, horn, lights, etc.

[Master Shake]

Spend a few hours one day, polishing my chrome interior pieces, with the old 'aluminum foil and water trick'.

Here are some results:

Before (right side is 'after'):
After:

Before:
After:

Before:
After:

Before:
After:

[Master Shake]

Also, just yesterday, began fitting new front suspension. So far, the lower control arms, shocks and all 4 tie rods. Still have upper ball joints, pitman arm and idler arm waiting in boxes to be put on.

[VicCrownVic]

Awesome car!

The interior chrome pieces really shined up nicely. Glad to see the car went to an owner that appreciates it.

[Master Shake]

Thanks man. Yeah I really do love this thing.

I pains my heart when these cars get sent off to demo-derby, even though I bet they wreck all who cross their path. I'm going to do my best to keep it going as true as I can, but I will probably do many mods. Most likely of the swaps are the SEFI and a T5 transmission. Best thing I did for my mustang was fitting a T5 into it, really made it come alive and even the engine seemed to run better. But first and foremost I will have to fix the drive train.

Also need to figure out the audio situation. All the speakers are old and crusty, and the radio barely functions. But I do love the looks of the dual-knob head unit. I'm thinking of fitting a simple Pioneer unit UNDER the seat, but within reach. So that I have modern audio and keep the classic look.

[DerekTheGreat]

Sell me your horns! LoL, seriously.. I like the color combo and have noted the aluminum foil & water method for the chrome bits, those things turned out really nice.

[Grand Marquis GT]

Nice car! And I am a fan of the foil and water trick for chrome.

[Bobcat]

Don't put a head unit under the seat. Only one head unit in a car is how it should be. Just find a repop dual knob style aftermarket one and run it.
I bet all of your speakers are dried out.

Yes.. More manual panthers.. Yes...

[Master Shake]

Thanks guys.

Okay folks I need some advice.

The rear end in the wagon is making hella noise. Had it on up on the lift driving 30-40 mph and narrowed it down to the right wheel. At this point I'm assuming it's the bearings, and being that the axle shafts serve as the inner bearing races, the axles are shot too. I found axle shafts on RockAuto for 100 each and a few bucks for the bearing and seal kit. Now here's my question. Should I spend 200+ dollars on putting new axles and bearings into my old (narrow) housing, OR should I got out a find myself a disc brake, wide rear end to swap over? Also, what year would be the best candidate?

Also, also, we just had a trade in come in, a late 90s early 2000s Cadillac Deville. It's a junker, overheated twice on a 4 mile journey to the dealership. It has nice wheels on it and front tires look fairly new. 225/60R16 was the tire size I think. Would those wheels fit on my box?

[mcninetyone]

GM wheels won't bolt on a Ford, different lug pattern. You can use Dodge/Plymouth wheels if you find some you like.
And check if you get wheels from a front wheel drive car, many of them won't work, Ford or Chrysler.
Tire size (225/60R16) is fine.

If it was me, I would swap in a disc brake rear end from a 92-02 CV/GM. Many have 3:27 or 3:55 gears with posi.
And since you're doing the front suspension, this would be a great time to do the big brake swap.

[jaywish]

Where do you live? Fla?

If so you may not want to bother with posi. Posi helps with snow, mud, and higher power burnouts. Otherwise it is a slight negative.

Alt #1
Probably the nicest solution overall as you get to dump the drum brakes a bit wider wheelbase and pick your gear ratio. Just try to find the lowest mile rear 92-97? (Pete I can't remember for sure what yr they changed to watts link) with the gear ratio you want. You should check for bearing end play by trying to move the wheel and or brake drum up and down. If you can see movement, more than an extremely small amount, the bearings and most probably axles are shot. When you do this swap you also want E-Brake cables from the newer donor car and new bushings for the control arms and a new brake hose over the differential. You will likely need to make new brake lines from differential to calipers. If the rotors and calipers don't look minty fresh, new is a wise choice along with ebrake hardware. If you change the gear ratio you probably will want to change speed sender gears. So this is probably the largest job but it is an upgrade.

Alt #2
Also you might just need one axle. If you are a JY hound pull left side axles from 89 and older boxes and you will likely find a nice axle. The rights tend to wear more. They are interchangeable left & right. You will also need new axle bearings and seals. To put it/them in your car you have to open the differential to release the clips that hold the axles in. Remove the brakes, so likely new brake stuff, a good time to change the wheel cylinders, so might wind up making new brake lines over the housing. Change the center brake hose.

Alt #3
There are repair bearings that you could install to save the price of a replacement axle. I would do that before buying new doorman axles. Same work and other parts as in #2. Except repair bearings instead of normal bearings.

Alt#4
Buy new axles. Doorman are cheap for a reason. Many folks have been satisfied but... There are better usa made brands which cost more. Same work and other parts as in #2

Alt#5
Also the noise could be the brakes. May want to pull a drum or at least put the car on jacks and use a screwdriver to isolate the noise a bit more. You can check for vertical end play while you are at it.

This applies to several of the options. If you determine it is an axle, you do need to see if you need one or two. One is likely two is very possible. So JY axles are cheap but a bit more labor is involved. Repair bearings are cheap. If you want new axles you may want to pull the existing ones first if your situation allows. to see how many you need.

hope it is #5 for now.

[sly]

92-97 rears... 98 started the watts link and will not bolt up.

[mcninetyone]

You're right jaywish a posi is not needed, my own 3:55 rear is open. I just know that many people want a posi whether they need it or not.
And you're right sly, 98 and up won't work, what was I thinking

[sly]

but the posi helps so much in the wet. It is soooooooo much easier to recover from loosing traction with a posi than open.

[DerekTheGreat]

Posi is awesome, put that shit in my car a few months ago. Just yesterday I wanted to turn around but space was tight.. Did a brake stand, got the tires going, hooked the wheel to the left, let go of the brakes and WHEEEE!! nice 180.