VicCrownVic's 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab"

[VicCrownVic]

Back on the road.
This car rides so much nicer than The Ice Car (for now). It seems a bit wimpy by comparison though. Both cars are 2.73 open rear cars, less miles on The Scab's trans, but I think the 200k-ish miles (PO guessed 230K) on the engine might be part of the wimp factor. As long as the engine keeps going without doing anything unreasonable this car will be on DD duty until the threat of snow grows close.

A bunch of maybe plans for this car. Maybe I'll install a 3G, headlamp relay harness, '98-'02 P71 cluster that's been waiting to go in since last year, remote TFI that I've had parts for since last year, late model rotary manual heat a/c control head (that's a big maybe since there is more modification involved than the same swap on an aero). Some of that might happen this year, or none of it might happen this year, but I doubt all of it will happen this year.

Oh yeah, I forgot, I got some work done over the past few weeks in preparation to put this car back on the road. New battery and TPS since I stole the battery and TPS from this car for The Ice Car, new shift tube bushings, new MF switch (working wipers are nice), two new tires to go with the two new tires that went on last year, new ignition lock cylinder and matching door locks I picked up at the JY a few years ago(90+ have door locks matched to the ignition), and also installed an aero cup holder ashtray.

[DerekTheGreat]

Nice work. If you want another project, one with an HO in it, I could be tempted to let go of my '91 Mark VII. Some assembly required but all parts minus the driver's side fender are in the box so to speak.

[VicCrownVic]

I found a fuel door popper on an '86 MGM at the JY last weekend. Of course I grabbed it along with everything I needed to install it. I ran the stock '86 wire from the passenger side kick panel to the actuator and also mounted the actuator last weekend. I then decided I didn't want to use the stock fuel door button since I figured I could mount a '90-'94 LTC fuel door button to the left of the steering column where the wagon tailgate window button would be. So I went back to the JY and grabbed a fuel door button from a '94 LTC, modified my dash trim and installed the button today.
I need to swap out the fuel filler bucket thing that the upper part of the full filler neck bolts to. The stock popper bucked is reinforced with a metal plate, so I figure I should swap it but to do that I need to not have a full tank of gas. Once that is done I'll install the hardware on the fuel door and be done.

After I was done wiring/installing the button I hit it and (had the actuated latch sticking out of the trunk so I could see it when I hit the button)... nothing. I knew the button worked up to the P-side kick panel because I had already tested at the connector there. I was going to test for voltage at the actuator when I realized I hadn't yet bolted the ground down. So I grounded it and watched the latch mechanism move each time I pushed the button. Haha, SWEET! I'll have to get a video of the fuel door opening once I get the final details taken care of.

Here's the button, that's all I got for pics of the install.

[DerekTheGreat]

mmm chocolaty interior..

[87gtVIC]

I did the fuel door popper install back in 2013 when I finally found a car at the yards with one!

I like having it a lot.

The existing bucket in your car may have the holes marked with an x where to drill in the fuel well area. I made up a plate and bolted that in with the popper assembly IIRC. Been years but I remember something like that.

[VicCrownVic]

I didn't look too closely, I'll have to see if the holes are marked. The door has dimples where the two screws for the latch and spring go. I used to wonder what those were there for, and now I know.
The '90-'94 TC button being black doesn't match the antenna and rear defrost buttons, but since it's on the other side of the steering wheel it actually doesn't bother me. The light for the button was also burnt out so I stuck a blue LED in there since that was all I had on hand. While I was driving tonight I realized that I can't even see the button as it is blocked by the turn signal stalk (can see it through the steering wheel while turning). So the blue LED not matching my red LED cluster or the stock antenna and defrost isn't a big deal. Although it does look a little funny from outside standing next to the rear door where I can see everything.

This was actually the second box that I've seen with a fuel door popper. The first one I saw the orange button in the glove box but didn't bother to pause long enough to read that it said fuel door. This time I knew exactly what I was looking at (fuel door bent out was the dead giveaway) so I had to have it even if I didn't really need it. Once I get it all buttoned up I'll figure out if I actually like it or not.

[VicCrownVic]

My wheels needed a good washing, so that was one of the things I did yesterday. The rear wheels weren't bad, but the front wheels had probably never been washed. I didn't get them completely clean but each time I wash them more crud should come off and they look better now (peeling clear coat, pits, and all).
Here's a before and an after pic of the front right wheel:



Also, I finally finished my fuel door popper install.
I didn't feel like messing with the fuel door well bucket, so instead of installing the reinforced one I drilled the holes which were marked like Dave said. I even got to use it yesterday at the gas station when I filled up.

(LOL, UN is out of view of the camera, the decal does NOT say LEADED FUEL ONLY)

[87gtVIC]

Nice. I dont remember if I mentioned it or not but I fabbed up a little reinforcement plate for the mounting of the popper stuff in the fuel well bucket. May be an alternative if you run into issues not using the reinforced bucket.

[Tiggie]

What'd you used to clean the turbines? They are difficult to get clean!

[VicCrownVic]

Dave, you did mention the reinforcement plate. I might put the stock '86 reinforced bucket on next weekend when I'm up at my parents' place with all the tools I need to get the job done. Otherwise I'll probably cut up some old computer case, since I have plenty of those laying around, and make a reinforcement plate out of that.

Tiggie, I thought I had grabbed something that said wheel and tire cleaner, but looking at it again and looking at the company's website it looks like it is actually intended for just cleaning tires. I did rinse the wheels with water after applying the stuff and didn't keep it on there longer than just letting it sit for a minute tops then scrubbing. Black Magic Tire Wet Foam is what I used (https://www.blackmagicshine.com/tire...tire-wet-foam/).
I've had good results from another Black Magic product (Express Foaming Wheel and Tire Cleaner) in the past but couldn't find that at the store.
For scrubbing I used an off the shelf brush with bristles that I would consider medium stiffness and a shop towel. Nothing special, something similar to this off the shelf wheel brush: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Carrand-9...Brush/16472416. There where some spots that didn't seem to want to come off. I didn't want to spend too much time on it since I was mainly going for decent looking from a distance.


Oh, a couple weeks ago I also stole the cheap store bought steering wheel cover I had on the steering wheel of my '89. The stock leather wrap gets gummy and nasty on sticky days so it has been a huge improvement even if it looks out of place (didn't get any pictures of it though).

[DerekTheGreat]

Wheels look good again. I typically use some stuff that comes in a translucent blue bottle. The mist chokes me up if it gets into my windpipe so I think it's got dilute HF in it, stuff works good and is safe for painted wheels, that's the important part. I think it's made by mequires or however you spell that. Best part is you pre wet the wheels, spray that on and then power wash it off, no scrubbing required. Used to be such a pain in the ass to clean the wheels on my Fireturd...

[VicCrownVic]

As dirty as these front wheels were I think scrubbing would be required no matter what product I used. LOL
The rear wheels didn't really need to be scrubbed though.

[DerekTheGreat]

I miss driving cars with faded paint and shitty wheels but tip top mechanicals.

[VicCrownVic]

This one has been back and forth to Detroit 2-3 times a week for the past few weeks. It's not perfect, but it does what it needs to.
The engine is certainly tired. It reminds me of The Ice Car a few years ago before that one got really tired and started breathing real heavy through the PCV. Since I'm only driving this one during the Spring/Summer/Fall I can easily get another few years out of this engine.

This weekend I will get around to checking #8 spark plug again, there has been a slight miss now and then and I assume I will find crap built up on that plug but not as bad as last time when the spark plug wire was loose and not burning some of the crap off.

[DerekTheGreat]

This K1500 is tired too. Burnt valve and super weird acceleration that wasn't there before I changed the distributor so don't know what that's about. Burns a lot of oil too yet I like driving it. Holds 80 mph with no problem. I'll never get burned again with this type of problem, super easy to check for it- have the car in question running at idle and hold a piece of paper next to the tail pipe. If it gets sucked into or against the tailpipe it's got a burnt valve.

You ever try running a hotter plug? The also make these things which back the plug out of the combustion chamber, supposedly helps with fouling..