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    #91
    change the drier if you open it up.

    +1 on finding out what is on that tube. If it looks like sand, its the dessicant in the drier. If its black or metallic looking its probably the compressor grinding itself to bits.


    Having restricted airflow on the evaporator and/or condensor can make this happen too. Run the interior fan on low and have a bad clutch fan and you'll get this problem.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment

      #92
      Where is the orifice tube at, and can it be serviced without replacing an entire line? I am thinking it is in the middle of one the lines that goes to the lower part of the evap core.

      Comment

        #93
        the OT is in the line off the bottom of the evaporator core. You'll need the OT puller tool or a very long (at least 4 inch) sheetrock screw (or similar small diameter screw) to drill into the thing and yank it out. If using the tool, pay attention to the way it latches onto the OT and when you get it latched, twist as you pull. The seals will probably be really good and stuck in place. This will help break them free. dab a little refrigerant oil on the seals of the new one to help slide it in.

        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
        Originally posted by gadget73
        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
        Originally posted by dmccaig
        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

        Comment

          #94
          What he said. Use the tool, if you damage the aluminum evaporator tube and let refrigerant leak around the orifice it'll act stupid. The rental Ac service kit thing at Advance actually has the proper puller. Change the O rings on the liquid line and anything else you need to unhook, and wet them lightly with new ester oil for re-assembly.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment

            #95
            Hrm I'll post an update when I get the OT out. Does the lower hose unscrew from within the engine bay..? Also I will most likely replace the dryer as well. Which kit at advance auto has the puller?

            Where is the best place to locate a 65mm egr plate? I cannot find a lightning one for obvious reasons, and all the aftermarket ones I've seen are for the mustang style motors. I don't think boring out the TC egr plate would be the best idea since that'll limit the mating surface down to almost nothing....

            Comment

              #96
              The lower hose probably has a quick disconnect fitting (check it out and see if it's just the round fitting with a large clip over it instead of hex heads - you'll need the special tools - plastic 4-color things at most parts places) and you will definitely want the system to be empty when you pop that. It is all accessed from the engine bay.

              You can technically bore out the lopo one to 65mm, but the walls will be pretty thin. Some folks have had extra material backfilled in the coolant and EGR passages to make up for that and had everything machined... but that's a pretty penny as well. You can generally find throttle bodies on ebay if someone doesn't find them in a yard first. They don't come up too often, but when they do, they tend to go quick.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment

                #97
                I have a full lightning egr spacer as well as throttle body if you are going that route. Don't mind the catch can and bracket. Just was using it to mach everything up off the car....



                I also have a stock panther egr spacer that I bored out to 63mm and ran on my engine before the latest engine build for a number of years that I may part with.

                Let me know via pm if interested in anything
                ~David~

                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                Originally posted by ootdega
                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                Originally posted by gadget73
                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.



                ​

                Comment

                  #98
                  Its a quick connect. You'll need the disconnect tools, but it comes apart from the engine bay side. Its all right there on the passenger side of the car. The liquid line is the lower connection on the evaporator. Once thats off, the orifice is probably visible if you shine a light in there. The drier is the can at the top end of the evaporator, right next to the blower motor.

                  Make sure its discharged before you unhook stuff. if that vents voilently at you, you'll get a bath in stinky ac oil. BTDT, it smells like melted PVC pipe and it looks like alien blood.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

                    #99
                    Replaced the OT and the accumulator. The OT didnt seem plugged from the outside...Maybe the inside got plugged up. My AC works decently now as long as it isnt super hot outside.

                    I went to pull a trailer the other day and my front pump seal went out! I dont think I have ever seen oil pour out faster than at that moment. I let the tranny cool down and I put more oil in it, and it is fine for now. As long as I dont pull anything, it only drips a very tiny amount each day. I am going to have to replace it this monday. Might as well replace the rear main while the tranny is off as well.

                    Comment

                      #100
                      You spent a lot of time in 1st and 2nd gear while pulling that trailer? The AOD converter is of the bypass lockup type, when you hit 3rd gear the thing drives the transmission off the stator and thus there is no converter slip to generate heat to make the front seal heat up to the point of letting go. 1st and 2nd on the other hand can cause some fierce fluid shear inside the converter that makes things get nice and toasty-like. Point is, if you plan on pulling that trailer more than once in a blue moon get yourself a nice transmission cooler. If you plan on pulling it semi-regularly, consider regearing the axle to both lessen the load on the transmission and enable it to get into 3rd gear sooner.
                      The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                      The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                      Comment

                        #101
                        So, with that said am I doing more harm then good by putting it in "1" in heavy traffic? I don't like the thing shifting from 1-2 so much when things are at a crawl. Sometimes I'll take it up to 20 but then it's usually right back to standing still. Always thought I was helping the trans live longer.
                        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                        Comment

                          #102
                          Nope, I'd say no harm done if you just keep her in 1st manually - I also see no point in letting her shift into 2nd just so you can get on the hooks 5 seconds later and thus force her back down into 1st. Probably actually helping ease the wear on the internals, yes.
                          The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                          The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                          Comment

                            #103
                            Good to know, thanks HRG.
                            1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                            1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                            Comment

                              #104
                              Np! "Hunting" for gears is one of the most common complaints with automatic transmissions the shift kits people are trying to resolve, usually the solution is devising a way to keep the transmission in the lower gear to reduce the load on it and at the same time keep the pump spinning faster for more proper line pressure so clutches and bands don't burn up. You're doing the exact same thing but manually.
                              The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                              The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                              Comment

                                #105
                                If there is concern, add a big trans cooler. If no concern, add a small trans cooler.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

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