Unecessary Stuff

[sly]

you can JUST sneak a swivel socket in there, but removing the control arms makes it much easier.

[packman]

I was going to do that. I think I might go through the trouble of removing the control arm. Didn't like the feel of the swivel at those angles. Going to drop the gas tank and finish removing what's left of the fuel system. Paint the frame rail and put up the new lines. I will post my paint question in the exterior forum.

Gadget & SLY: thank you for the prompt answers

Packman

[87gtVIC]

I was able to get to the motor mount bolts with minimal effort:






Only one is the pain in the rear. The other two are cake because of access holes.

[sly]

Swivel socket... like 87gtVic pictured... not a socket and u-joint/swivel.

[gadget73]

I left mine alone until I did the brake swap. Didn't want to fuck with it otherwise. The way the mounts in these work, the engine can't go anywhere even if the rubber is toast. Worst it does is sink and chew the fan shroud a bit. I have done them in place with the swivel socket. Possible, but its a miserable job. Much easier to do with the engine in and the control arms out vs engine out and control arms in IMO.

[packman]

I will probably pop the LCA's off and change them that way. With the engine out of the way, I might as well clean and paint that X-member. I could probably leave it alone, but without the lopo oiling everything down, rust will start to set in; at least in the spots that didn't receive that protective coating.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

If your LCA bushings are questionable, now is the time to do them. Solves your limited access to the motor mount bolts issue as well

[packman]

Rebuilt the front suspension a few years ago. Shouldn't be difficult to remove the LCAs.

[Crown_Chronivic]

Hold up guys. When I rebuilt my engine a few years ago the cruise control quit working. I have the 5.8L and just put bolts and sealer in place of the egr tube that connected to both heads, tore out the solenoids, smog pump and all the vacuum tubes, etc. Would that likely be the cause of the cruise control not initiating?

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

[gadget73]

Depends what vacuum lines you removed. If the one going to the cruise servo has no vacuum, it can't work. You don't need the smog pump and all that crap though.

[packman]

I know, not this again!

So I am replacing the evap canister lines and hooking the solenoid back up.

I am not going to keep the EGR as the heads I got don't have the passages for it. So when I get rid of the salt & pepper shaker, what do I need to do with the vacuum lines that go off of or to them?

[packman]

First off; this is my EGR solenoids on the passenger fender. I don't know where they were originally located on the 1986 model years. I am happy to get rid of that malarkey. With that said, what vacuum lines need to be rerouted if that's needed? I pointed at a line that runs off of the solenoid and into the corner of the firewall. Is that important?

[packman]

Also, I unplugged the old charge cables when I did the 3G swap and shoved them to the side of the fender. Aside from the horn (looks like it runs off of that somehow), what can be kept off of that harness? That yellow wire that runs below the charge wires; what does that go to? I figure with everything exposed, I can get rid of the unnecessary wires.

[packman]

I think I may have asked this before, what is this thing that plumbs into the heater core return hose?

[Tiggie]

Thermal lockout for ATC. Keeps the auto fan off until a certain temp. It can be bypassed. People smarter than me know how and may chime in!