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    #46
    Originally posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
    I got one, but it's low mileage (for a commercial-grade vehicle) and works extremely well so I have no reason to dive into it. I do recall someone on Pirate doing a rebuild on one of those with good pictures and explanations, gotta see if I either bookmarked it or PDF-ed it... Why, you thinking of putting one in your Towncar?
    Haha, nope, don't even think it would fit. I heard that used to be a hot rodder thing to do back in the day. Was watching old videos explaining how they work and people using them. Something about pressing a button or flipping a switch on the shifter and then backing off the throttle a bit and getting back on it- lower rip'em's. Neat stuff, just real big.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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      #47
      I was joking about putting that under a Panther, altho if you lose the factory suspension and go custom 4-link with coilovers it would fit fine, lol

      Yeah that's how you drive them, the shift mechanism is spring-loaded so pushing the button preloads it then when you break the torque flow by backing off the skinny pedal the spring moves the shift fork when the gear speeds match close enough. Same thing as the splitter on a Eaton Roadranger, except this one is in the axle which allows cheaper main transmissions - well that, and the fact that when 2-speed rears were invented there was no such thing as a 13-spd RR, most larger trucks got a combination of simple boxes like a 5-speed main and 4-spd aux (Brown-Lipe usually), yeah that's two sticks you gotta shift, sometimes at once too!
      The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
      The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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        #48
        Jeez.. Is that the "brownie box" or as I've heard it referred to? ElderlyIron has an old GM stake truck that he retrofitted one to, divorced so that's kinda cool. Although the OD was only like what 0.80?
        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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          #49
          Yeah that's the "brownie", and yes they are all divorced mount AFAIK.

          The small OD step allows it to be used to split the main transmission gears, like 3rd over is more or less even between 3rd direct and 4th direct for example. You gotta realized large trucks run low engine speeds, so they got differential gearing in the 3.xx range to get them up to highway speed, if you got enough transmission gears with good low range your rear axles can be set up to make up for the lack of OD - people used to run 100+ mph with non-OD transmissions way back when, as long as the engine had the power the gearing could be made to do anything you want it to. And if the engine lacked the power, well, add more gears to make up for it
          The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
          The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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            #50
            Originally posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
            You might be having some lubrication issues there. The plastic thrust washers generally don't give a hoot about ambient temperature, but the grease there sure does. One way to find this out, pop the U-joints apart and have a look-see.
            The problem did seem a bit less bad when the weather warmed up, but it's been a persistent issue. I scored a good aluminum drive shaft and will be replacing the U-joints (with greaseable ones) and swapping the original slip yoke over, so we’ll see how that goes.

            I had a really curious experience with the drive shaft purchase. For quite awhile, there had been two listed at a place on the way to my father’s (soon to be former) cottage property for $52 each. I had my doubts as to whether they actually had them, and I never bothered inquiring before since I didn’t get up to the cottage before now (for my last visit ). They ended up still having both.

            On the phone, the fellow said something like “Would you be wanting both?”, and I said “Possibly”. When I got there, he brought one out, and it was in great shape compared to what I’ve seen at U-pull yards, though it needs U-joints. I asked about the other one, and he said he didn’t want to bother if I was only getting one. I said I was interested in seeing it, and he brought it out, saying they were both the same and had hardly any miles on them.

            The second one ended up being something I didn’t want to take a chance on, so I said thanks but no thanks. By this point, his buddy was there, and one of them accusingly said something like “So you just wanted to see if it was better than the first one?”. I noted that if it was in as good shape as the first one, I would have gladly taken it, but there were four things I had an issue with. He wasn’t interested in hearing it. One of them said something like “Other places would charge you $150, but we’re only charging you $52”, as if the lower price justified their expectation that I take a chance on a questionable driveline part after making them bring it out. One of them said something like “Why do you have to be so critical with your inspection?”. I had to wonder if they were just messing with my head, but there was no indication of ‘playfulness’. They really had a bad attitude and negative vibe (kind of like "Yer not from around here, and we don't want yer kind"), with no sense of letting the customer be happy with his purchase. I won’t be going back there if I can help it.

            The front U-joint on both shafts had one axis that was good while the other was clearly looser. That’s the same as my original one, so I seriously doubt the “hardly any miles” claim. The rear U-joints had one good axis while the other was either really tight (on the good one) or completely seized (on the bad one). My original rear one was good on both.

            Here are the four issues that made me pass on the bad one. The slip yoke on the good one did not have any rust. The slip yoke on the bad one had enough rust to be concerned that the contact surface would not clean up nicely. The good one had only a typical small balancing weight on the front. The bad one had two really big ones along with a smaller one. The good one had weld beads that seemed flawless. (Each had a curious indentation that gave the impression of grinding, but they were both in the same location with no actual indications of grinding, so I guess that’s just how the welding machine did them.) The bad one clearly had a small chunk missing out of the front weld bead, so something must have hit it pretty good at some point (though without leaving any other indication of contact). Finally, the good one had no sign of being in contact with a forklift, while the bad one was scraped deep enough to be approaching dented territory.

            For the good one, they ended up charging only $50 (plus taxes) for some unknown reason, and wrote it up as “no returns or exchanges”. Good thing I inspected it as well as I did. Such overall weirdness is one of the reasons I generally don’t like people.

            Dunno when I’ll get around to installing it. I’ll probably leave it for a spring project, along with a thorough underbody inspection and oil application.
            Last edited by IPreferDIY; 10-08-2018, 11:45 PM.

            2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
            mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

            Comment


              #51
              You're buying a used part with no warranty, why would you not inspect it closely before buying? And yeah, even if I only wanted one I want to look at both and take the best one if at all possible.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #52
                They actually have a "90 Day Standard Warranty" with nothing indicating drive shafts are excluded, so it seems they were just being dicks. F--- 'em.

                2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                Comment


                  #53
                  At this point, I've got the old U-joints off the aluminum drive shaft and am hoping I'll finally see the Spicer U-joints I want in the RockAuto clearance list before I've finished dealing with other issues. I just looked into greasing U-joints since I recalled seeing something about too much grease not being good. The Spicer video below indicates you should actually see grease seep out of all four seals:


                  2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                  mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                  Comment


                    #54
                    To grease or not to grease, ...

                    I was surprised to see that greasable U-joints are not necessarily a better way to go:



                    The strength issue would not be a big deal for me, but having to constantly grease the damn things when the non-greasable might be at least as good definitely got me leaning towards non-greasable.

                    Here's a fellow who, in his series that includes the following part, can tell you more about U-joints than you might ever care to know:



                    Spicer itself indicates that its non-greasable 5-1330X U-joints last longer (at least in some sense) than its greasable 5-213X U-joints, so the relatively small price difference seems worth paying:

                    Click image for larger version

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                    (click to enlarge)

                    https://spicerparts.com/parts/drives...hicle-u-joints

                    Their 5-13301X U-joints are greasable, but significantly more expensive. If they would still have to be greased as often as the 5-213X, I wouldn't bother paying that much more.
                    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 06-11-2019, 05:58 AM.

                    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                    Comment


                      #55
                      I have greasables in my 88. I installed the front and I can grease it when I do the front end at oil changes. The rear one requires an adaptor for my grease gun to get to. Messy pain.
                      1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                      1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                      GMN Box Panther History
                      Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                      Box Panther Production Numbers

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