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Thread: Buyer's Remorse (AKA "Hideous") - Giraffe's 1990 Grand Marquis LS

  1. #341
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    So I was cleaning up the remains of the burned out bushings on my 92-95 upper control arms and noticed some damage to one of the shells. Should I get a set of cheap bushings and replace these shells?


    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  2. #342
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    It ain’t pretty, but unless it interferes or could cause damage with installing your new bushings, I’d leave them alone.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  3. #343
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    File the burrs off and don't worry about it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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  4. #344
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    I tried to install the dipstick and tube that I pulled from a '95 Mustang to replace the current (Fox) one in my Cobra. Now I remember why my original tube bracket was broken. No way that tube fits correctly around and through the headers. I was running a Ford Motorsport chrome dipstick tube for a Fox Mustang. It worked great except that the SN-95 specific accessory brackets make it so that the A/C compressor and hoses make it very difficult to remove the dipstick. So I got the bright idea to swap dipsticks between the Mercury and the Cobra.

    The Mercury's tube would budge, so I brought out the MAP gas torch and it finally saw the light. The Fox tube is a perfect fit since the factory air box is no longer in the way. I won't be able to bolt down the bracket until I install the headers, though.





    The Mercury's dipstick tube will work fine in the Cobra, but I'll have to lengthen the bracket before I can bolt it down. The routing is perfect, though.

    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  5. #345
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
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    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
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  6. #346
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
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    Very much so. I think I'll have the Mercury's old tube powdercoated once I've modified the bracket.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  7. #347
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    I picked up one of the chrome dipstick tubes (same one you have) years back. I had one gripe about it.....the dipstick itself (or was it the interior of the tube) seemed to be coated and when removing and reinstalling the dipstick metal would flake off...and a lot of it. I messaged the seller about it (LMR) and they refunded me my money because of the issue. I now run the dipstick but in a modified dipstick tube to work with my set up. http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post769199
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  8. #348
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Yeah. I never had any issues with this dipstick. May have been a manufacturing defect with that particular example. I'm just glad I've finally found a solution to the dipstick problem on the Cobra. I fiddled with trying to install the junkyard tube for quite a while today before giving up on it. I'd need to significantly modify it to make it work.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  9. #349
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    If you get too frustrated or tired of dealing with that old stubborn snake, I’d be glad to take it off your hands lol. Been lusting for a SN-95 5.0 Cobra since 2003ish...
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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  10. #350
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    If you get too frustrated or tired of dealing with that old stubborn snake, I’d be glad to take it off your hands lol. Been lusting for a SN-95 5.0 Cobra since 2003ish...
    Haha. I’m afraid that’s unlikely. I picked this car up for $6500 in 2009 from the original owner’s son-in-law in Wilmington, DE. I was stationed in Dover at the time.

    They’re still out there, but are getting scarce.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  11. #351
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Yesterday while driving the steering wheel suddenly started a pronounced wobble during city driving. I decided now was the time to install the new steering components rather than waiting until the big brake swap.

    Here we go again.



    Are the factory tie rods greasable? If not, they were replaced at some point. I'm assuming a very long time ago. Who knows how many miles this car has.



    I've had an issue with the passenger front spring rubbing the frame. Anyone else ever had this issue? These are Moog springs.



    All new, all Moog.



    I think the passenger outer tie rod was the source of the wobble. It looked like it was filled with mud instead of grease and flopped around like crazy.





    All done. This was fairly easy except for installing the new pitman arm. It took some muscle to torque it down.







    Steering is much tighter and the wobble is gone. I'll need to do the big brake swap before I can get an alignment since my upper control arm bushings are completely shot. I at least eyeballed the tie rods to keep the toe-in where it was.

    I'll get the remaining parts for the big brake swap next payday and will get the new tires with tax money. Big brakes will be done before spring!
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  12. #352
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Yummy newness.

    What you just did is something I need to do at some point. All is well under there BUT it looks like hell. New parts just look SO goddamn nice. I do the alignments myself so its one more reason I am putting it off. It took a LONG time for me to get the toe just right and have the steering wheel centered. Lots of not fun.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  13. #353
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    As for the spring rubbing..Yes, I have had that. Only on 1 of my 3 Panthers, the '97 Townie, and only on the passenger side. I also have a shiny spot on the frame where the sway bar must contact on the passenger side. I always figured it was because something was tweaked from when I had that accident 70k miles ago, its never seemed to do anything "bad" or even make noise, but it does eat sway bar links on that side. Car drives fine and its not worth throwing time/money at it if its not preventing it from being driveable, so its just been one of those things that make me go "huh" when I see it.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  14. #354
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Mine makes a creaking noise loud enough to hear inside the car whenever I go over a bump. I'll try to see if I can do something about it when I do the big brake swap.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  15. #355
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    I guess I didn’t eyeball the toe in quite as well as I thought. It was fairly wobbly with some vibration on the highway this afternoon. And the front tires just look more off to the naked eye. I’m going to park it for a little while and drive the Mustang until I can get it sorted out.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  16. #356
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I’ve had reasonable success with two long straight boards. One on each front tire, and a ruler from one to another. Repeat front to back of the front tires and you can get the toe pretty close. 1/16” toe in is ideal.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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  17. #357
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Getting things ready for the big brake swap. I should probably paint the new calipers and brackets, too.

    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  18. #358
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Finally getting around to redoing the junkyard taillights I acquired a while back. Chrome paint on the reflectors and a sand and clear for the lenses. Be advised that if you use an adhesion promoter like I did, they may cloud up like in the second picture. This is normal and will go away once you spray the clear.

    I still need to do the same treatment to the reflector strips and polish out the chrome. on them and the housings. Hopefully will have it done before the weekend.





    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  19. #359
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    I’ve had reasonable success with two long straight boards. One on each front tire, and a ruler from one to another. Repeat front to back of the front tires and you can get the toe pretty close. 1/16” toe in is ideal.
    I didn't have a very long board, but I decided to try getting the toe close to driveable again.

    I only had one board, so I used my tape measure to ensure it was on the same spot on both sides, then made some chalk marks and measured between them.

    First measurement was 74" back, 72.5" front. Way too far in.

    I twisted each outer tie rod out three turns and buttoned everything up halfway so I could set it on the ground and measure again. This time: 72.5" back, 72 3/8" front. 1/8" toed in.

    Buttoned it up the rest of the way and took it for a drive. Pretty much back the way it was. That'll do until I complete the big brake swap and get a real alignment.

    Keep in mind that these measurements were not exact. I just wanted to remedy the severe toe in situation I had before so I could at least drive it and give the Mustang a rest.

    Edit: forgot to mention that I used my new DeWalt 20v 3/8 electric impact for the first time. It is possible to love your tools and I love that tool.
    Last edited by Giraffe; 02-12-2019 at 09:01 PM.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  20. #360
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giraffe View Post
    I didn't have a very long board, but I decided to try getting the toe close to driveable again.

    I only had one board, so I used my tape measure to ensure it was on the same spot on both sides, then made some chalk marks and measured between them.

    First measurement was 74" back, 72.5" front. Way too far in.

    I twisted each outer tie rod out three turns and buttoned everything up halfway so I could set it on the ground and measure again. This time: 72.5" back, 72 3/8" front. 1/8" toed in.

    Buttoned it up the rest of the way and took it for a drive. Pretty much back the way it was. That'll do until I complete the big brake swap and get a real alignment.

    Keep in mind that these measurements were not exact. I just wanted to remedy the severe toe in situation I had before so I could at least drive it and give the Mustang a rest.

    Edit: forgot to mention that I used my new DeWalt 20v 3/8 electric impact for the first time. It is possible to love your tools and I love that tool.
    Nice. I recently picked up a milwaukee M12 (1/2") stubby impact gun. Bunch of torque settings and very very impressive. Does lug nuts better than my ryobi 18v impact.

    Anyways for more accurate toe readings (for anyone planning to do this as part of their real alignment) you kinda have to roll the car back and forth after you make an adjustment. The suspension does not settle fully, nore do the tires if you just drop it. My Vic is self aligned by me in my backyard. Took way to damn long setting caster, camber and toe but it can all be done.


    Curious, did the taillight lenses need a clear? A sand up to 2000/3000 and some plastic polish would not give you a good result without the potential for clear fading?
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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