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Thread: My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

  1. #761
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Nice . Yet another oddball radio!

    I had to laugh at your video and your commentary. Just a weird one so it made me chuckle at the issue you were having.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

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    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
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    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  2. #762
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    I had the ignition switch seperate on my 87 a few years back. I was going to get a motorcraft unit but ultimately decided to go with a Duralast gold because the price and warranty. So far so good.

  3. #763
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Drove up to Nick's today for his birthday and to help him with a few things on his '89.

    Definitely blew the heater core, or at least managed to make it leak properly. I wasn't even driving that hard when my vents started having a sweet-ish fog blown out of them for a good minute and it stopped. Once I got up there I verified there was coolant residue on the passenger side firewall near the floor and the heater ducts smelled of it. We bypassed it for the interim, but will probably get to it next month.

    We did get the ignition switch swapped, so at least that's covered.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (230K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  4. #764
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    thats a really weird failure mode on the switch. Not impossible since the headlamp and turn signal circuits come together but very weird. I'd honestly expect damaged wiring to the switch more than the switch itself to have caused that.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #765
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    thats a really weird failure mode on the switch. Not impossible since the headlamp and turn signal circuits come together but very weird. I'd honestly expect damaged wiring to the switch more than the switch itself to have caused that.
    The switch showed a fair amount of fine metallic shavings/bits on the forward face where the hi-beam action occurs. The switch was an original Ford unit, so there's a chance it was original to the car with all its miles.

    Only place in town that had a replacement switch was Advance, so I wound up with whatever brand switch was in a CarQuest box. Had a lifetime warranty, so that was okay I guess. Engagements feel better than the old switch (occasionally it would make a very loud SNAP when engaging the turn switch). Flash-to-Pass occurs earlier too, as with the old switch I had to actually click the switch entirely to flash the lights.

    Didn't have any trouble with the signals yesterday, so I guess that's a good thing.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (230K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  6. #766
    Southern
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    Much better to enjoy a birthday tinkering under the hood of a fine Ford motor company product Thanks again for spending the day here.

    Look forward to the heater core job on this car in the future!

    Security torx is a funny name for a fastener that you can buy the proper tool for...
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
    03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

  7. #767
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    Heater core jobs on these cars are NOT fun! With all the old plastic and vacuum lines I would REALLY test everything prior to putting it all back together again. You really don't want to go in there again. As an aside, a few years ago, I was watching a video of two guys up maybe in Tenn. that did the job in like 1.5 hours but it looked like they took several short cuts.
    What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
    What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

  8. #768
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    not that many vac lines involved honestly, its just a miserable job pulling the dash loose.

    Pressure test the heater core before it goes in. I put in an OE Motorcraft once that leaked right out of the box. Had to do the job again a year later when I could no longer put up with the smell. The second core got cobbled up with an air pressure regulator set to 15 psi and whatever hoses were around to connect to it. The other side I just jammed my finger into the outlet to plug it and stuck the thing in a bucket of water. If it leaks, you'll know it pretty quick. Annoyingly the Motorcraft wasn't just a cracked solder joint at the pipe, it was actually leaking from a tube inside the core. Not practical to fix that.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #769
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Heater core got here surprisingly quick, ordered it Monday.

    Looks like the box went around the block a few times:


    Original Ready-Aire sticker was redone with an OSC, then superseded to a Four Seasons part number (399002 → 98620). Maybe if I'm careful I can peel away the old stickers and see when it was boxed.

    Listing showed an aluminum replacement, but given all the relabels, a more traditional brass/copper unit appeared instead.


    I'm also considering using a different heater core restrictor. I've got an appropriate sized socket jammed in the hose, but that mod wasn't done until the HO swap was done, and I still regularly would open up the car, so I dunno if the core started to go then, or after. I can grab a LMR Mustang one if I really need to since I'd like to extend the life of the core and I'm not sure how well these cores handle pressure compared to an aluminum one.

    Quaint reminder that a LoPo blew apart a "off-the-shelf" inline restrictor for Chrysler vans...



    I will certainly pressure test the core before any installation is attempted. No fun doing certain jobs twice, and having already done a heater in a '99, it's certainly worth doing right the first time.


    Unrelated to installation and more-so just reading stuff online: Should I be excessively worried about electrolysis in my system? I've been using conventional green antifreeze (due to be changed next year given the 2yr/36K recommendation) in this particular application, however, some people claim aluminum radiators and brass/copper heaters don't play well. I've converted my '97 to the Zerex G-05 gold antifreeze without any issue, and it was also a conventional green car, but carries an original aluminum radiator and heater. I am familiar though that it does offer better protection even with dissimilar metals. Since I'm already due for a flush-n'-fill, would anyone be dissenting regarding just converting to a later coolant like G-05?

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (230K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  10. #770
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    shouldn't be a problem but it might be worth doing a voltage check to make sure nothing funny is going on. Where you have to worry about is where things have an electrical connection. The core isn't tied to anything, so as long as the coolant hasn't gotten funky it won't really care.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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