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Thread: My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

  1. #641
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    Which stall rating did you go with? We’re you preferable to the 2500 RPM stall, or something else?

    Wiring is very much the same, just a different connector, and one less wire. Essentially the plug just has the yellow sense wire and green/red lamp wire. Given the install is very similar to the 3G, it wouldn’t be a hard thing to do if someone opted for it. I figure the only folks that would be out of luck are large case folks that had an externally regulated unit, since I don’t think Ford made a 6G that would fit a bracket like that.
    Yeah I got one that’s rated at 2400-2600

    That’s good to know! I just ordered a large case 3g
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, GT40 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, Baumann Shift kit.

  2. #642
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Got started on that underhood fuse box job. I've already partially vented my frustrations regarding some of the brilliance to the design of the fuse links in the "What Are You Doing?" thread, simply because it's so strange that so many wires are all sharing the same darn color, but all power their own respective circuits. I get maybe from the standpoint it's to indicate, "Hey, this is constant hot 12v power!", but it's not indicative to what it's powering.

    Anyway, I've been using 87gtVIC's photos to get the most mileage out of this since the original thread had the photos nuked out of it.

    I had to get creative to rule out some circuits that I couldn't prove out under the hood:


    I managed to get lucky a few times on the massive bundle of yellow cables. Had to determine who went to the trailer tow, defroster, and air suspension relay circuit. Similar to 87gtVIC, I had a random wire not labeled anywhere, but mine was a thinner gauge yellow cable.

    I've also probably made a mistake in fuse box selection. I wound up with an early Aero Town Car box, which is fairly chonky. I have already configured it to my specifications. I just need to re-label the inner lid. I've got all my circuits written down in the back of my EVTM.


    I'm doing the smart thing and moving the horn relay over into the box, and I'm also putting my headlight and e-fan relays in there too.

    About 75% filled in.


    I've got the other relays and the red base already fitted. I've just got to get more 30 amp fuses. I've already added extensions to most of the wires to get them to clear the bottom of the box, however I need to get some heavier gauge wires for four remaining circuits. Also need more wire loom.

    Fitment in the car is gonna be the next fun part. There's an area I can land it where it'll be right up on the brace bar, but clear of the battery hold down and the hood. Definitely will have to remove that bar to open the lid since this one is hinged. I've also got to make a bracket to hold it level on the fender liner. The only thing I already know I don't like about where it needs to sit gets it all up on the A/C lines. As long as I've got some abrasion protection over there, it shouldn't really be an issue though.

    I'll be much happier once everything is wired in, it works, and I never try this job again.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Awaiting Resurrection
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (222K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  3. #643
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    Lot of work, but worth it in the end. I’m interested to see your placement of the box and what you come up with for a bracket. I hope to do this myself some day
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, GT40 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, Baumann Shift kit.

  4. #644
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Its definitely worth the hassle.

    Cleans things up nicely under the hood, allows you to add and modify existing wiring like placing the horn, headlights and fan relay inside and easily get back up and rubbing if a circuit has a hiccup. No tracking town a fuseible link..just a fuse.

    Kinda annoying if you have to remove the fender brace to access the lid but not annoying if you never have an issue. Honestly how often down one even open up a underhood fuse box in their newer cars?

    I think I did it once in my mercedes to swap a cig lighter to switched power instead of constant (it has that option) and never since.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  5. #645
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Finally got the darn fuse box patched in today.



    And it's about 98% functional. Something is not right with the horn relay, since it engages (but does not sound the horns) when power is applied. I didn't fuss with that circuitry when I was re-pinning the blocks since it appeared to be correct. Essentially I was left with two wires coming off that relay, which is one to the horn pad to ground the circuit, and the other for output to the horns themselves, which those ground to the chassis.

    Only thing I could imagine I did was somehow mislabel the two wires........................................... maybe I answered that right now. Horns = Ground on the trigger side means that relay is gonna engage and mashing the horn pad grounds the circuit and blows the fuse. I'll check that tomorrow. Definitely too late now to try and be honking the horn.

    Otherwise, it hasn't caught fire yet, none of the other fuses have popped, and everything seems to work okay. The headlights and e-fan relays were moved into the housing and those seem to work just fine.

    As far as mounting this one went, I was very lazy, got some rigid exhaust strapping, bent two legs into a shape where it kept the box level and then attached the strapping through preexisting holes in the fender liner. It can't move much like that, and when the brace is down, it literally cannot move since the brace sits right on it.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Awaiting Resurrection
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (222K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  6. #646
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    If you're getting power to the horns but they're not honkin', try adjusting the screw thing on them. I had that problem with my TC an Ashley's TC- bumping them sometimes "adjusts" them to open circuit. Also, my horns didn't measure within spec resistance wise. Sustained horn use of greater than 1 or 2 seconds would blow the fuse. First found that out in the middle of road trip, it also takes out cruise control when that happens.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  7. #647
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    If you're getting power to the horns but they're not honkin', try adjusting the screw thing on them. I had that problem with my TC an Ashley's TC- bumping them sometimes "adjusts" them to open circuit. Also, my horns didn't measure within spec resistance wise. Sustained horn use of greater than 1 or 2 seconds would blow the fuse. First found that out in the middle of road trip, it also takes out cruise control when that happens.
    Nope, no power at the horns. I definitely hooked the wires up backwards, so now the horn works.

    FWIW, I popped the 20 amp horn fuse at least twice with the old relay/wiring setup fitted, and I think I know why now: The contacts were disgustingly corroded. Looked like someone had been dumping battery acid on it. Hopefully that won't be an issue ever again.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Awaiting Resurrection
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (222K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  8. #648
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Oh.

    Yeah, the green crusties wreak havoc on things. My neighbors must've hated me while I was fiddling with the horns. They're quite obnoxious in a driveway.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  9. #649
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    You have plenty room to grow yet in there?
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  10. #650
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Looking good!

    You have plenty room to grow yet in there?
    If you mean adding much extra, not really at this point. All four relay slots are used. Horn, Headlights (Hi/Lo relays), and E-Fan are in there. Most of the traditional ATO slots are taken save for maybe four total, there's two open circuit breaker slots, and there's about five open Mega ones. It's fairly loaded up, save for really any crazy, high amp ones.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Awaiting Resurrection
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (222K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  11. #651
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    the +12v wire into the horn relay should connect to 30 and 85. Horn should connect to 87, the horn pad to 86.

    Most of the time you can reverse 85 and 86, but not in a diode suppressed relay. Either way power has to connect to 2 pins or no honky honky.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #652
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    If you mean adding much extra, not really at this point. All four relay slots are used. Horn, Headlights (Hi/Lo relays), and E-Fan are in there. Most of the traditional ATO slots are taken save for maybe four total, there's two open circuit breaker slots, and there's about five open Mega ones. It's fairly loaded up, save for really any crazy, high amp ones.
    I see. Same happened to me. Then I installed an additional relay box (factory two banger) and then an aftermarket one (relays and fuses) on a factory bracket that fits right behind the newer inner fender air boxes. I am good now with spares. lol

    If you need more relays spots you can JY search for this factory box and bracket:




    Think it may be a couple year model only thing in town cars around 1998 with a certain option.
    Last edited by 87gtVIC; 02-01-2021 at 07:46 PM.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  13. #653
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Took a crack at modding the old Electronic radio.





    I'm no wizard with a soldering iron, but following Gadget's video and double checking the pins on the jack, this should be configured correctly. The cable I used has two shielded pairs inside so I only had to deal with one cable run. My plan is to mount the jack inside the ashtray to the left of the cigar lighter. There's enough space to allow for it so it stays out of sight, and the aux jack can be accessed easily when its wanted. That all also assumes the radio actually turns on, and the jack properly breaks the signal with a jack inserted so you don't try to listen to two things at the same time.

    Guess I need to get a connector solution done up so I can actually do the install.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Awaiting Resurrection
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (222K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  14. #654
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Nice . When I got my radio and had the bug for swapping it in I was looking into those jacks. Where and which one did you purchase?
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  15. #655
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Nice . When I got my radio and had the bug for swapping it in I was looking into those jacks. Where and which one did you purchase?
    eBay Audio Jack

    They make different variations, but I haven’t found many that are very substantial looking, but I assume if it works properly, and if you want to hide it, appearance doesn’t matter much.

    I’ve got plenty of spares. I’ll never use all ten of mine in case you want one. I’m sure I could throw a few in a padded envelope and mail them.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Awaiting Resurrection
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (222K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  16. #656
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah they're all like that, and they're all pretty shitty. I would like to find one with screw jacks or even some sort of in-line housing but no dice. I guess I could learn how to design circuit boards and make a board to solder this to that brings the connections out to screw terminals.

    so far I've just wired it up and put heat shrink over the whole mess so its protected. The one in the Continental is in the dash so its not visible anyway.

    about half the time I get the inputs and the outputs backwards and it just goes quiet when plugging something in.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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