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Thread: My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

  1. #221
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Step up the ground from the core support to the battery. Helps a lot. Also, 3G or 2? When I stepped up to a 3G all my dimming light problems went away.
    Understood. I noticed the tiny little extra ground cable that comes off the negative terminal and runs off somewhere. Looks like it has an inline fuse. The '97 has a beefier one that attaches to the fender.

    I'm running a 3G alternator. It definitely keeps up with all the electrical loads. Headlights and such don't dim, blower stays strong, but since I've put LEDs in the instrument cluster, you can tell every time the signal light flashes as they dim and come back up with each cycle, or anytime I brake. Doesn't bother me much, but I'm sure it would drive somebody up the wall if they saw it. Maybe I'll go back to incandescent bulbs there since they're a little less bothered by minor load changes.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (320K Miles) - The Hideaway & April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold; Restoration Under Way
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (185K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 POTM Winner

  2. #222
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Hmm, that's odd. I'm no electrician but I've never seen someone fuse a ground..

    I've got NFC on the LED's in the cluster or why they're dimming. Maybe one of the more technically advanced peeps on here could have a work around for that, like installing a capacitor for the cluster's illumination lights that would help keep the supply of juice to them constant?
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  3. #223
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Hmm, that's odd. I'm no electrician but I've never seen someone fuse a ground..

    I've got NFC on the LED's in the cluster or why they're dimming. Maybe one of the more technically advanced peeps on here could have a work around for that, like installing a capacitor for the cluster's illumination lights that would help keep the supply of juice to them constant?
    Its actually kind of interesting too me. In my (not so expert) experience LEDs are actually less sensitive to voltage fluctuations. They require less power to light up, so feed them anywhere from 9-14v and they produce pretty much the same light output, this is why they don't always dim properly with an old school dimmer switch.

    As for battery terminals, I've always liked the factory-looking strap ones like these: linky. Solder or crimp on a eyelet on the cables and bolt it to the terminal, best part is most fit in the factory plastic terminal covers Ford used on the Aeros. With them bolting onto the cables, they are quick and easy to replace should the need arise.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  4. #224
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Hmm, that's odd. I'm no electrician but I've never seen someone fuse a ground..

    I've got NFC on the LED's in the cluster or why they're dimming. Maybe one of the more technically advanced peeps on here could have a work around for that, like installing a capacitor for the cluster's illumination lights that would help keep the supply of juice to them constant?
    It's weird. So the negative cable looks like it was replaced at some point because it looks like one you can get from a parts store. It has the main cable which grounds to the block, then there's a small 12 or 14 gauge wire that comes off of it, a butt connector, then that's attached to what appears to be a glass-type fuse holder (one of those plastic cylinder type ones; black in color). That wire continues into a loomed harness immediately thereafter and disappears.

    I'm thinking I may need to add a battery ground to core support cable based on how things look. Unlike the Aeros and Whales that have the negative cable that goes down to the chassis and the other smaller cable that goes to the fender, this one just has the cable to block and then the other small wire that goes somewhere. I know on my friend's C1500 his small negative cable that went to his fender came out of the battery terminal and caused the gauges to behave weirdly if you turned the headlights on.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (320K Miles) - The Hideaway & April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold; Restoration Under Way
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (185K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 POTM Winner

  5. #225
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Yeah, my car had a 14ga wire that went from the core support to the battery. I stepped that up to welder's cable when I put the 3G in along with the radio. Could be what your car needs.

    Like BigMerc96 said I wouldn't think the LED's should be sensitive to voltage fluctuations but maybe if there's a bottleneck at the ground situation... Again, just a laymen here. I can barely take a piss without getting any on me...
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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