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Thread: My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

  1. #401
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Got some work done over the last few days. Several days ago, I checked vacuum at idle three ways: Idling with SPOUT out, Idling with SPOUT in, and Idling in Drive. The car had a tendency to lope with the SPOUT out, IAC seemed to be trying to find a happy spot (aftermarket one, but I snagged a Ford one for free today, so I may swap it), so the vacuum would go change slightly with engine speed. Vacuum was steady with SPOUT in, same with in Drive, just a bit lower since the engine speed was reduced. I've got 20 second videos of each, but the gauge was generally steady so I don't feel there's something nasty like a misfire occuring or something up with the valvetrain again.

    I also verified timing was at 10* BTDC with the engine warm in all these conditions. I used the vacuum feed that goes down to the purge solenoid for each test. Interestingly it didn't seem to get its stumble habits while sitting in Drive during the tests. I need to get it on the road and do some testing tomorrow to check for the symptoms again.

    I also got my freebie tachometer hooked up. I got this thing over five years ago with no bracket, from a co-worker who was just getting rid of some stuff he figured was junk. It's been collecting dust in the garage and I figured now would be a good time to get it working. I checked it out and polished up the lens, and "made" a bracket out of an angle brace for making cabinets. I went with column mounting. It only really blocks the 'BRAKE' lamp and a bit of the left turn signal indicator, but the other important indicators are still clear. Works good too.







    FWIW, it did point to engine idle speed being possibly lower than what it should be. I was getting, high idle at ~850RPM, ~600 in Park after stepdown, and ~450 in Drive. Engine sticker indicated Drive idle speed should be 525-650 range. This may all come back around to me having to adjust the stop screw on the throttle body after the intake swap since I couldn't get the TPS in range. I may need to index the TPS's ears a bit for more adjustment so I can the idle speed square and keep the TPS in range. It may also explain why during a KOER test with the old IAC I was getting a RPM High Limit Not Reached. I'll be pleasantly surprised if that'll let me get things dialed in.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  2. #402
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    I like the retro look on the tachometer.

    You went full commitment with the screws. When I used to run column mounted tachs I used a big hose clamp so I could always "turn back" if I wanted to...like I am now.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
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  3. #403
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    you did set the timing with the spout out only right? Setting it to 10 btdc with the spout in will make it wrong.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

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  4. #404
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Tach mount looks good.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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  5. #405
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    you did set the timing with the spout out only right? Setting it to 10 btdc with the spout in will make it wrong.
    Yeah, SPOUT out.

    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    I like the retro look on the tachometer.

    You went full commitment with the screws. When I used to run column mounted tachs I used a big hose clamp so I could always "turn back" if I wanted to...like I am now.
    I did the same thing on the '97. I ran for a few weeks without it when I swapped the cluster a few years ago, but I got used to having it, so I put it back. Plus, I have a good excuse to look for a nicer tan column shroud for this car if I do decide to remove it. This one is fairly sun bleached and getting brittle.
    Last edited by Kodachrome Wolf; 02-12-2019 at 08:38 PM.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  6. #406
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    ...FWIW, it did point to engine idle speed being possibly lower than what it should be. I was getting, high idle at ~850RPM, ~600 in Park after stepdown, and ~450 in Drive. Engine sticker indicated Drive idle speed should be 525-650 range. This may all come back around to me having to adjust the stop screw on the throttle body after the intake swap since I couldn't get the TPS in range. I may need to index the TPS's ears a bit for more adjustment so I can the idle speed square and keep the TPS in range. It may also explain why during a KOER test with the old IAC I was getting a RPM High Limit Not Reached. I'll be pleasantly surprised if that'll let me get things dialed in.
    The idle speed is controlled by the ECM, so if your IAC is 100% open and still not able to get idle in gear up to where it wants it to be I could see that being feasible. However, didn't you verify TPS is in range? That's something to be mindful of when changing the factory curb idle, as messing with that might put you out of spec. I've heard of IAC motors being dead, and with these things unless you back probe sensors or have a break out box you won't know if it's responding to input from the ECM. I talk about Ashley's '92 F150 a lot, and being able to see what the commanded position vs actual position of the IAC motor is really nice, amongst other things I was previously blind to. Stinks that Ford took so long to get to the "free market" table. GM was there in '87....
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  7. #407
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    The idle speed is controlled by the ECM, so if your IAC is 100% open and still not able to get idle in gear up to where it wants it to be I could see that being feasible. However, didn't you verify TPS is in range? That's something to be mindful of when changing the factory curb idle, as messing with that might put you out of spec. I've heard of IAC motors being dead, and with these things unless you back probe sensors or have a break out box you won't know if it's responding to input from the ECM. I talk about Ashley's '92 F150 a lot, and being able to see what the commanded position vs actual position of the IAC motor is really nice, amongst other things I was previously blind to. Stinks that Ford took so long to get to the "free market" table. GM was there in '87....
    The TPS is in range, however when it was first installed on the HO TB, it was way out. I asked the guy I got it from if anyone messed with the stop screw and he said no. His Mustang ran fine, didn’t idle crazy high. The IAC definitely works to get the idle up and down, but it can only make so much adjustment.

    What I can do is index the ears for greater adjustment range and give that a try when I “reset” the idle screw.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  8. #408
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Going based on StangNet and their surging idle check list, it said to ensure the engine could idle roughly at 600 RPM with the IAC unplugged and SPOUT out. I was idling closer to 300 on a warm engine and it wanted to shutoff. Bumped it up to 600 RPM and took the TPS off and widened the holes a bit and reset it within range, then plugged back up the SPOUT and IAC. Now it starts up and holds around 625 in idle and roughly 585 in Drive. Going to take it out and see how it does.


    Edit: Does run better, idle isn’t stumbling in Drive when warm after being driven. The tach needs some attention, it’ll respond great with slow engine speed changes but doesn’t respond to fast changes. Went WOT and it barely climbed up to 3000 before the car shifted into the next gear. Might just be a connection issue.
    Last edited by Kodachrome Wolf; 02-13-2019 at 01:32 PM.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  9. #409
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Hmm, it didn't occur to me to trim some of the plastic on the TPS to achieve desired results.

    Didn't you say that tach was sitting for years? It could just be corroded on the inside, especially if it likes to read accurately below 2k or so. Over ten years ago some friends and I had either stick shift Rangers or F150's, the ones with F150's never took their stuff above 2k rpm's. Silly thing was they installed aftermarket tachs when patience and a few junkyard visits would have netted them with a factory tach which requires zero modification or wiring to add to the truck..
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  10. #410
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Hmm, it didn't occur to me to trim some of the plastic on the TPS to achieve desired results.

    Didn't you say that tach was sitting for years? It could just be corroded on the inside, especially if it likes to read accurately below 2k or so. Over ten years ago some friends and I had either stick shift Rangers or F150's, the ones with F150's never took their stuff above 2k rpm's. Silly thing was they installed aftermarket tachs when patience and a few junkyard visits would have netted them with a factory tach which requires zero modification or wiring to add to the truck..
    I just didn’t have enough adjustment with the factory holes. I didn’t have to enlarge them a whole lot, just enough for some extra rotation.

    As far the tach goes, who knows how long it was stored out of use. It barely reads outside of 1000. There might be a reason it was sitting in a box collecting dust. It’s a no-name unit likely from the ‘70s. Figure swapping it for a new one wouldn’t be a bad idea, plus a 2-1/2” unit would be a bit more suitable for the placement anyway.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  11. #411
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Pro Tip: Don't base engine idle speeds off a tach with questionable readings. Popped in a new replacement that's worth a damn, and it's idling at 1000 in park. That needs to come down some.

    FWIW, it's almost in range according to the emission label under the hood for vehicle in gear. It's sitting roughly 50 RPM above 650. \_(ツ)_/

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  12. #412
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Haha, yeah I did that once. I was trying to adjust the idle on Ashley's '88 C3500 with a 454 by using the factory in cluster tach. Tach read about 900 or 1000rpm's where as the Snap-Off MT2500 reported 800, right where the damn thing wanted to be. I won't admit to how much time I wasted doing that haha. My one friend had this to say after the fact when he heard the story: Most old guys go by ear. Well, come to think of it, it did sound right but because the factory tach didn't read right my panties got scrunched. Lesson learned.

    The idle speed when in gear is a weird thing, and I highly recommend adjusting for that vs idle speed when in park or neutral. I had that battle with my '85 LTD. Idle ended up being slightly higher than Ford specified when in park but in gear it was spot on, which was better when in stop & go as it wasn't rough any more.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  13. #413
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Target idle is 672 rpm IIRC.

    Gauges are often somewhat out to lunch if they aren't fancy expensive ones. After a while they become more of a reference than an exact measurement. Needle "here" is right, anywhere else is wrong, no matter what the scale behind it says. Most of the time thats good enough, when it isn't you spend actual money and buy better instruments.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #414
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Yep, and when I plugged in the MT2500 I was like "Oh, it is correct." I admitted my shame to Ashley.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  15. #415
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The boat my folks used to have was twin V8 powered, so two complete sets of instruments and a "sync" gauge that is used to match rpm on the engines. If its in the middle, they run at the same speed. You can also hear it. One tach read some 200 rpm higher than the other even though the engines were in sync. The lower reading one would start out the day some 600 rpm high until it got a Fonzarelli on the dashboard, then it would drop back to where it belonged. Never figured out either problem, just learned how to live with it. Initially both read way off, the factory-installed tachs were set for 6 cyl use instead of 8. Fixing that made them read sane rpm but I wouldn't have trusted either further than I could have pitched them overboard.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #416
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Hey look, they're called indicators and both were indicating. Engine speed? Yes. What more do you want? /s

    A Fonzarelli, LoL. Haven't heard that in awhile.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  17. #417
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    That boat had a few things that needed the occasional whack in the right spot to make it go. Never figured out any of them, I just learned where to hit them.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #418
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Decided to order replacement catalytic converters for the car. It truly is awful parking it in the garage if I don't let it air out for a few minutes from the fumes.

    I ordered Magnaflow units through work, got both units for right under $180. Compared to how the factory setup used two per side, these new ones only use one per side. Hopefully I don't run into any issues running without the Thermactor system in place, but I figure it's worth a shot.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  19. #419
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    It actually has two cells, but in the one chamber. The first in the front third and the second in the rear third of the chamber with the middle third meant for the air injection. The original style had one cell per chamber with the air injection in the pipe between the chambers. They are MUCH easier to mount than the OE stuff too. That's exactly the stuff I used for both the Mad Marquis and the Cake.

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  20. #420
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Even if you get new direct fit stuff its generally going to be the 2 cat pipe rather than the 4. The Fox H pipes are that way.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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