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Thread: My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

  1. #201

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    I added the Mileage monitor to my 85 wagon. Love it.

    It still has the VV carv on it so i had to add the fuel flow meter. Just found an NOS meter on ebay and built my own wiring harness.

    They are neat!!
    Last edited by Steveh66; 09-15-2017 at 01:32 PM. Reason: bad spelling

  2. #202
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to adjust that TV cable some. My townie comes out of third below 19mph. Will shift into it at that speed if I'm hardly pressing pedal, will shift right out with any more pressure, no bog.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  3. #203
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Sounds like you need to adjust that TV cable some. My townie comes out of third below 19mph. Will shift into it at that speed if I'm hardly pressing pedal, will shift right out with any more pressure, no bog.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    It probably needs some readjustment. I had the line pressure bumped up in April so the shifts would be a bit snappier and kick down from OD would be before I got the pedal to floor, but for how long the throttle body was left undone from the intake just resting in the engine bay, that may have messed with something.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  4. #204
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    you did set it with the SPOUT unplugged right? its like 20-30 BTDC with it connected, and 10 without it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #205
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    you did set it with the SPOUT unplugged right? its like 20-30 BTDC with it connected, and 10 without it.
    I did. Timing was way too advanced to start with before I got it set properly.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  6. #206
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    K, just asking because you wouldn't be the first person to fall into that trap.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #207
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Finally got around to doing some work that didn't involve fiddling with the engine or electronics. Some time ago I found a '90 LTD CV police car and snagged the rear control arms and sway bar set. Now, given what a PITA it was to get the control arms out with the exhaust in the way, I opted not to install them for now, but to go ahead and get the sway bars installed.

    I flattened the lip a bit on the rear control arms so that there wouldn't be any clearance issues with getting the bar set. It dropped perfectly into place after doing that and bolted right up.


    I also drained and re-filled the rear end. I was using conventional Castrol 80W-90, but I've been trying to flush it of any debris since it had gone through an axle bearing which put a lot of shavings back there. There were definitely shavings in the fluid that was drained, but nothing indicating catastrophic failure of a bearing, more so just residual shavings from before. I should have stuck a magnet on the inside of the cover, but didn't think about that until afterwords. I may still put two strong ones on the outside of the cover to help draw particles towards them and away from the gears. I used Valvoline SynPower 75W-140 for the replacement fluid. I've run that viscosity in the '97, and it seems to work really well in the '87. The typical axle noise seems to be considerably reduced.

    After taking care of the rear end, I did swap the hollow wagon front bar for the police solid front bar. The bar to frame bushings were trashed and the end links were installed upside down, rusted, and equally trashed. The metal caps that go over the bushings had deformed and had the impression of the bolt head pressed into them. The bushings themselves looked too small, one had split apart and was missing chunks, and the rest were wallered out and cracked. Essentially the front bar was just hanging there.

    Replacement bushings were installed, but I will say I wound up with bushings that were really tall beyond the bracket. I cut these level to the old ones and they bolted up nice and snug, with no unusual movement or free play. I used Moog for bar to frame bushings and sway bar end links (polyurethane type end link bushings).

    Taking it out for a spin, things were dramatically different! It was so much flatter in sharp cornering and ride quality improved. Even more floating was eliminated and it tracks even better! I'm not big on overly harsh suspensions, but right now this is where it needs to be. Essentially the suspension is like this: Police Front & Rear sway bars, KYB Gas-A-Just Police shock absorbers, original front springs, cargo coil rear springs, original front & rear control arms. It's not a complete HD suspension package, but it sure does beat the standard underpinnings, and it definitely beats where it started at, with sagging rear springs and dead shocks.

    On the way back to where it stays, it did get a needed bath to get all the dirt and dust off of it.


    I also took the time to toss on some new wiper blades. I wound up with a good pair of 22" blades that had the large and small pin arm holes. 22" blades work just fine on these and clear a good bit more of the windshield. Just a consideration for anyone who may feel the 18" blades aren't cutting it enough.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  8. #208
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    The existing rear control arms may be the same gauge as the police arms. The stock arms in my 88 were of the heaver gauge.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer, Silver Stars, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector.
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17

  9. #209
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    Whats the latest with the tailgate.

    Still angers me that it got hit.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  10. #210
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Looking good!

    Whats the latest with the tailgate.

    Still angers me that it got hit.
    Old one still on there. Replacement still sitting behind the shed. Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll motivate myself to go start processing the replacement.

    Depending on what paint combination I come up with to match with the rest of the body (assuming what I have in mind is close enough), I may touch up a few areas. The paint is peeling off the upper trim on the driver's side (no primer, just applied right to that trim). I'd consider retouching the roof, but I don't have an area that would be really clean to do that, but we will see.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  11. #211
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Ya know, for metal shavings in the rear end you could take an old harddrive and get the magnets out of it or use any other real strong magnet and throw it on the cover & drive around for awhile. It'll attract the shavings & keep 'em there until you decide to drain & refill again.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  12. #212
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Ya know, for metal shavings in the rear end you could take an old harddrive and get the magnets out of it or use any other real strong magnet and throw it on the cover & drive around for awhile. It'll attract the shavings & keep 'em there until you decide to drain & refill again.
    I actually picked up some strong magnets the other day from work. I'll toss them on the cover before my trip on Wednesday.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  13. #213
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    Tinkered about with the wagon today. I need to get my tachometer setup inside since I think the idle is a bit low. I cleaned the Ford IAC that was on it. I tried a IAC from work, and it couldn't make it idle without loping up and down after the car went from high idle to low idle. Idled fine in gear, for whatever reason. Anyway, I'll return that since it's not doing me any favors. Only reason I looked at the IAC was the idle has seemed just a touch when everything is at operating temperature, and the other day it stalled going into reverse with the A/C on. Cleaning the IAC seemed to have helped, but it's still not quite 100%, but is better than before. I may try finding another Ford IAC and cleaning it up really good.

    Driveability has been otherwise good since I've gone over the other components. I haven't had any issues with the distributor since the latest one went in and I got the timing set with a light.

    I also looked into seat belt replacements for the interior. Nick gave me good driver and passenger side belts that actually retract worth a damn. The current ones are very lazy, the passenger side being worse than the driver's side. Sometimes they don't even like retracting when the door is opened the way they're supposed to. I'm going to clean them up and get them swapped in. I'm also going to find what I did with the little vinyl ends that go at the floor bolt. The current ones are crumbling away and look bad. I'm also going to get the center front seat latch installed, since that has been absent since I got the wagon.

    I was also poking around under the front seats since a little flap that's supposed to be attached under them had come undone. Once I got them refitted on both sides, I noticed a lot of wires under the passenger seat. I finally found where the two A/C compressor connectors had run off to that Nick had collected some time ago. Maybe I'll keep those to the side for a "just-in-case" situation or if anyone ever needs one.
    Last edited by Kodachrome Wolf; 10-13-2017 at 04:14 PM.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  14. #214
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    If you can't find a Ford IAC, see if you can find a Hitachi one. Hitachi was Ford's supplier for the style IAC that is used on the SEFI 5.0 and 4.6 cars. I have one that I bought for my '97, it had all the same casting marks as the original one aside from the absence of the Ford part number. That was after having the same surging problem with a aftermarket one a few years back that resulted in me cleaning and reinstalling the original one every few months until it simply would not function properly anymore. Hitachi part worked flawlessly out of the box, and continued to do so when I installed it in my '98 despite being the "incorrect" part for a '98.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  15. #215
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I had a similar problem, the car would surge a bit as the idle tried to come down from the fast idle setting. Initially I just threw money at a Motorcraft part but it had the same issue. Left it alone for a while and then found a nice original one at a yard, took it apart, cleaned it up, lubricated it and the stepper motor and all has been fantastic since. Try giving that route a go and see what happens.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  16. #216
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    I've been kicking around a air pump bypass belt for a few weeks now. The wagon hasn't really had a problem with its air pump since I've had it, but there's three glaring issues. First, it's not hooked up to any air tubes since the cats are missing and the lines are absent; Second, Nick gutted it while he had it because it starting making noise, so it actually doesn't do anything useful; Third, it's functionally dead weight being spun by a belt.

    So today, I yanked that thing out of there and got rid of some unnecessary tubing.







    The air pipe coming off the back of the heads is still in place. I've got a small piece of the thermactor hose still in place with a plug in it.

    The original vacuum setup had a three line check valve coming off the cruise unit. One line ran to the firewall, the other towards the air pump. The air pump's line also had a check valve. I removed the three line check valve and replaced it with the air pump's check valve since it operated in the same way the other did and I did not need a third line going anywhere.




    I do need to re-tension the A/C belt. It's not squeaking, but the bolt that faces the radiator is missing. The rear bolt is in place and can be tightened to hold tension. Since the other bolt is missing, the tensioner is ever so much at an angle, which will wear the belt out much like the other one I took off. I'll grab one off a junkyard car, unless someone knows the type bolt I need for it. I will admit that tensioner wasn't the worst thing I've had to work with, but getting at it with the air pump removed made it a lot easier.

    I'll also be replacing the engine-to-frame ground strap and the negative battery cable terminal soon. The engine-to-frame ground strap is laughably small. The one from an Aero RCU is beefier, and I may just use a spare one of those I have laying around.


    Edit:
    Also, for anyone wondering what belt I used, I used a K060563 belt. You may see it in a few other number configurations, like 6K563, but the takeaway is it's a 6 rib belt that's 56-7/8" long. That gives you just enough to slip the belt under the tensioner pulley. If that belt was any shorter, it would of needed serious persuasion to get it in place.
    Last edited by Kodachrome Wolf; 10-16-2017 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Information

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  17. #217
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    That small one made it so that car run. When I bought - there was a broken ground wire somewhere. Which would you do? Put an AutoZone ground strap on or find the broken ground ?

    I used some cheap wire to just test how the car ran between the motor and the frame and that made it fire up like a champ. It's not really going to change anything but you certainly can change it if you want. The cable that was on that car originally had the POS screw on battery terminals:
    http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...171017115838:s

    These are crap. Don't use them.

    NAPA sells soldier on terminals that look and work like factory. Or I used a negative terminal with a ground wire off of it to connect to whatever the car wanted under the hood (I forget the cable).

    I remember that bolt missing for me too - but didn't care to deal with it or I forgot to.

    This is why I have a whiteboard now with a todo list for each car
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    1966 Ford Country Squire - 6.4L 390 2bbl/C6 - ~85K miles
    1989 Mercury Colony Park LS - 302 V8- 188K miles.
    1990 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 302 V8- 102K miles.
    2003 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series 3x - (42K, 79K-totaled, 222k)

  18. #218
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    I used the brass (marine) screw on terminals on the 93 and have had no issue. Battery is 8 years old on that car and finally starting to show weak cell signs. The terminals are at least 5 years old.

    +1 the lead screw on terminals do suck very much and are only good for about a dozen bends (tighten down/loosen up).

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
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  19. #219
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    I have no plans on using those lead terminals. Had one on the '97, and it was bad. The only issue I've run into is the negative terminal's bolt will just spin unless you put a wrench on both ends (also, the cable sheathing is pulling away). I was planning on using the compression nut type I used on the '97. It's a copper terminal, and holds up really well. A little pricey, but the quality is there.

    I want to try and improve grounding on the vehicle. I know engine-to-frame won't be one to help me much with stuff inside the vehicle, but it's a start for the long run. I need to find the one for body-to-frame since the dash lights like to pulse with the turn signals or if you hit the horn.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  20. #220
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Step up the ground from the core support to the battery. Helps a lot. Also, 3G or 2? When I stepped up to a 3G all my dimming light problems went away.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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