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My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

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    #31
    Hahaha. Seems a lot of the time no matter what I do the last two drops end up on my leg.

    Have fun replacing that heater core or freeze plug after fixing a leak. I don't like things to leak either but sometimes depending on the vehicles purpose/tenure I may not fix them if they're minor for that reason.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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      #32
      For me, I bought this car knowing about a coolant leak. Was told it was coming from the intake manifold but I didn't see any signs of that. So I brought it in to a trustee shop and it was actually the timing cover, water pump, and thermostat housing. With that, I had to add coolant every 100-200 miles. The intake leak recently? Every 5-10 miles...
      1993 Ford F-150 Flareside - July 2010 - August 2013
      2004 Ford Mustang - September 2013 - February 2018
      1987 Mercury Colony Park GS - August 2015 - Present
      2018 VW Golf GTI - February 2018-February 2021 (was a lease)
      2003 EZGO TXT - March 2015 - May 2019 (it's road legal!)

      2019 VW Golf Alltrack company provided April 2019 - Present
      2012 Fiat 500 5 speed - January 2021-Present
      2003 Audi A6 Allroad 6 speed July 2021-Present

      Comment


        #33
        Kind of bad leaks. My car was secretly leaking through the TB and onto the rocker cover. Never saw it until I went to hunt a vacuum leak. I did see some coolant on the topside which had dried, noticed that about a year ago. Tightening the bolts didn't help. Pulling the air intake tube off showed me the mess it has been making. I had to add coolant every 2-3 fill-ups so probably every 420-600 miles. Never saw a drip on the floor though.
        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

        Comment


          #34
          Looking through some old notes. If you're looking for NOS for the plug and play trailer wiring harness from Ford, the P/N is: D9AB-15A416-AC
          1993 Ford F-150 Flareside - July 2010 - August 2013
          2004 Ford Mustang - September 2013 - February 2018
          1987 Mercury Colony Park GS - August 2015 - Present
          2018 VW Golf GTI - February 2018-February 2021 (was a lease)
          2003 EZGO TXT - March 2015 - May 2019 (it's road legal!)

          2019 VW Golf Alltrack company provided April 2019 - Present
          2012 Fiat 500 5 speed - January 2021-Present
          2003 Audi A6 Allroad 6 speed July 2021-Present

          Comment


            #35
            My 1987 Mercury Colony Park

            What would cause excessive brake pedal travel? Around town, I feel some grab when hit I the brake pedal but, it’s not the signature Ford toe touch that is known of Ford of this age. It seems vacuum related because the actual bite level changes based on speed and how much throttle input there was before braking. There’s always some level of grab but, it’s not inspiring. The other part of this, I adjusted my drums a few months back and got great pedal feel. Now that I’ve been out of town more and the wagon has sat more, it seems to be right back where we were before adjusted drums.

            Also, don’t know if this could be an issue. A year ago, I was having a friend help bleed brakes and, we found that you cannot keep the cap off because fluid fountains out of the master cylinder reservoir when the pedal is pressed.
            1993 Ford F-150 Flareside - July 2010 - August 2013
            2004 Ford Mustang - September 2013 - February 2018
            1987 Mercury Colony Park GS - August 2015 - Present
            2018 VW Golf GTI - February 2018-February 2021 (was a lease)
            2003 EZGO TXT - March 2015 - May 2019 (it's road legal!)

            2019 VW Golf Alltrack company provided April 2019 - Present
            2012 Fiat 500 5 speed - January 2021-Present
            2003 Audi A6 Allroad 6 speed July 2021-Present

            Comment


              #36
              On the last note-it's normal for fluid to shoot up, i always just place the cap loosely back on it when bleeding brakes

              Excessive pedal travel, that alone would not be caused by the brake booster, the pedal would simply feel harder and require more effort to press it down. Is it more travel, or more effort? If it is more travel the master cylinder could be leaking internally, there could be a small leak at one of the brake lines (you'd notice fluid on the ground though).

              Alternatively you say the wagon sits. If the rotors get enough rust on them weird things can happen, or if a slider or caliper has frozen up you'd certainly get erratic braking.

              Tests: Put your foot on the brake while sitting in park, engine running, apply even, hard pressure. Does the pedal sink? Master Cylinder/brake line.
              Remove the front wheels, inspect the discs for any excessive rust on the faces, unbolt the calipers and make sure the slider pins arent frozen up, and take a large c-clamp or
              large vice grips and make sure the caliper pistons will retract normally.

              Side notes! My Maverick is painted the same blue. How do you like the "wing"? Does it help with dust?
              Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 10-12-2017, 09:54 AM.
              -Phil

              sigpic

              +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

              +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

              Comment


                #37
                Both front calipers were replaced last august. Slide pins are greased up. I can check again for any problems or rust.

                Pedal doesn’t sink on its own, I do have long travel. It’s not hard, I’d say it takes less effort than usual. Pressure doesn’t change while sitting a stop light. I can keep my foot resting on the pedal and it doesn’t move.

                I’ll check more once I’m home.
                1993 Ford F-150 Flareside - July 2010 - August 2013
                2004 Ford Mustang - September 2013 - February 2018
                1987 Mercury Colony Park GS - August 2015 - Present
                2018 VW Golf GTI - February 2018-February 2021 (was a lease)
                2003 EZGO TXT - March 2015 - May 2019 (it's road legal!)

                2019 VW Golf Alltrack company provided April 2019 - Present
                2012 Fiat 500 5 speed - January 2021-Present
                2003 Audi A6 Allroad 6 speed July 2021-Present

                Comment


                  #38
                  I just read through your first post and was going to edit, but you beat me to it! haha.

                  Have you also checked inside the rear drums? Bad wheel cylinders can do funky things as well, if they are original they are worth replacing, I've had a few freeze up on me a and it's led to a decrease in overall braking performance.
                  -Phil

                  sigpic

                  +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                  +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                    I just read through your first post and was going to edit, but you beat me to it! haha.

                    Have you also checked inside the rear drums? Bad wheel cylinders can do funky things as well, if they are original they are worth replacing, I've had a few freeze up on me a and it's led to a decrease in overall braking performance.
                    This stuff plus if the rear shoes are out of adjustment it will cause excessive travel. Get back there with a flat head or the proper tool and see if you can adjust them. If you just hear click-click-click with no real resistance that's a giveaway that things were loose back there. Probably also that the self adjuster isn't working. I typically keep going until I can feel a bit of resistance with the tool on each side and then stop.
                    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                    Comment


                      #40
                      adjusters have been adjusted. I originally had that problem earlier this year.
                      1993 Ford F-150 Flareside - July 2010 - August 2013
                      2004 Ford Mustang - September 2013 - February 2018
                      1987 Mercury Colony Park GS - August 2015 - Present
                      2018 VW Golf GTI - February 2018-February 2021 (was a lease)
                      2003 EZGO TXT - March 2015 - May 2019 (it's road legal!)

                      2019 VW Golf Alltrack company provided April 2019 - Present
                      2012 Fiat 500 5 speed - January 2021-Present
                      2003 Audi A6 Allroad 6 speed July 2021-Present

                      Comment


                        #41
                        It has been some time since I've posted here for sure. What's been done?

                        3G alternator installed with a foxbody mustang upgrade kit used. H4 and H1 headlights installed with the relay's needed. All new drum hardware in the back, new hoses, new steel lines... Also a driveshaft. It has this annoying shake on perfectly smooth roads, like it's finding imperfections that you can't see and it's plauged this vehicle since I bought it. the replacement driveshaft did help as the shop said the old one was bent. But over 40MPH there's this shake/vibration that's not exactly rhythmic, but it's there.
                        1993 Ford F-150 Flareside - July 2010 - August 2013
                        2004 Ford Mustang - September 2013 - February 2018
                        1987 Mercury Colony Park GS - August 2015 - Present
                        2018 VW Golf GTI - February 2018-February 2021 (was a lease)
                        2003 EZGO TXT - March 2015 - May 2019 (it's road legal!)

                        2019 VW Golf Alltrack company provided April 2019 - Present
                        2012 Fiat 500 5 speed - January 2021-Present
                        2003 Audi A6 Allroad 6 speed July 2021-Present

                        Comment


                          #42
                          if the u-joints aren't new, might need to check those. They should move freely but not be loose. If there's a spot that binds, it'll do that. Also, since the previous driveshaft had issues, you may need to check the pinion on the rear differential and the output shaft on the transmission. Put the rear axle up on jack stands and pop it in drive. Best to block up the front wheels to keep things from going anywhere. Watch for any wobbles. Could also be wheels out of round or tires with a weak spot in the sidewall.

                          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                          Originally posted by dmccaig
                          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by sly View Post
                            if the u-joints aren't new, might need to check those. They should move freely but not be loose. If there's a spot that binds, it'll do that. Also, since the previous driveshaft had issues, you may need to check the pinion on the rear differential and the output shaft on the transmission. Put the rear axle up on jack stands and pop it in drive. Best to block up the front wheels to keep things from going anywhere. Watch for any wobbles. Could also be wheels out of round or tires with a weak spot in the sidewall.
                            I'm leaning towards output shafts because the new driveshaft had u-joints put in which move freely, first thing I checked before putting it in. This cured some of the shakey-wobble I feel. I've also had 3 different sets of wheels and tires trying to decipher whether it was as simple as tire or wheel that is messed up. Nothing yet.
                            1993 Ford F-150 Flareside - July 2010 - August 2013
                            2004 Ford Mustang - September 2013 - February 2018
                            1987 Mercury Colony Park GS - August 2015 - Present
                            2018 VW Golf GTI - February 2018-February 2021 (was a lease)
                            2003 EZGO TXT - March 2015 - May 2019 (it's road legal!)

                            2019 VW Golf Alltrack company provided April 2019 - Present
                            2012 Fiat 500 5 speed - January 2021-Present
                            2003 Audi A6 Allroad 6 speed July 2021-Present

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Did you have a shop check the balance of the driveshaft you put in? Half the time theyre out of balance
                              -Phil

                              sigpic

                              +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                              +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                              Comment

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