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Thread: 1989 Mercury Colony Park

  1. #61
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Nice work guys. Poor wagon looks like it has been sitting for some time. Going to be a cloud of debris behind it once you get it moving.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  2. #62
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I can hear the brake booster leak. shhhhhhhhh every time the pedal goes down.

    one thing I will give hydroboost, never have to worry about that. The power steering pump makes random noises instead.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #63
    Southern
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    Haha Thanks David! Yea it's going to be a mosquito fogger once I take it off the property and run it! That EGR Spacer is doing the trick. I stopped driving the car...October 2018? Due to the wasted rings. So yea lots of dirt and pollen. Needs a bath!

    Yea we noticed that too..I scored a Ford booster for like a 96 Vic for $60 to my door. Brand new. I put one in my 1990 too so I could get rid of the big pancake. Zach did it on his 87, makes for a lot more room.

    Hydroboost on my 05 Yukon I sold was nice and smooth. Pump did make noise randomly - ha that's true. Forgot about it.

    Next is to clean everything out of it (storage locker), air tires up, replace booster, clean it so i can see out the windows, install a replacement radiator, adjust timing, install a better temp gauge...and drive it!
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
    03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

  4. #64
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    I have some sad news to report. As I was fixing the poor cat to H pipe flange exhaust leaks I singed my arm a little on the cat - that hurt a bit lol

    But more importantly, the rear main seal has a good steady drip of oil out of it :-( No its nothing else but that only. I'm really bummed. And I am not taking a trans or engine out for a rear main with jackstands etc. Off to my local trans shop later on when they have time. I wonder what happened - it was replaced with a FelPro 1 piece. Still needs the exhaust fixed, i'm going to get some FelPro gaskets and get rid of the garbage ones that came with the replacement cats.
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
    03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

  5. #65
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Bummer.
    Even when you try to do thing properly you get punished.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  6. #66
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    You put thread sealer on the flexplate bolts? If it's not the rear main seal it could be that. When I put the 306 in The Ice Car I didn't put thread sealer on those bolts, figured the leak was the rear main seal (although that engine didn't leak before) so I got everything I needed to do the rear main seal. Got in there and found it was those bolts.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, backup/summer cruiser
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon SLT - wannabe winter DD - many issues, returning sometime in the 2020s
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  7. #67
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If the crank gets scratched when the rear main is pulled it will leak. Same if there is a wear groove. I'm not real motivated to change those seals unless its giving me trouble.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #68
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    You put thread sealer on the flexplate bolts? If it's not the rear main seal it could be that. When I put the 306 in The Ice Car I didn't put thread sealer on those bolts, figured the leak was the rear main seal (although that engine didn't leak before) so I got everything I needed to do the rear main seal. Got in there and found it was those bolts.
    I was the one who put the seal in. It looked right when it went in.

    That said, I dunno if we stuck thread sealer on the bolts. I know I didn't...

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Awaiting Resurrection
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (230K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  9. #69
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    its coming from inside the bellhouse and not the rear of the oil pan?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #70
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    In my case (flexplate bolts w/o thread sealer) oil was running down the front of the dust cover/inspection plate. The oil dripped down as it exited and did not travel the length of the bolt into the bellhousing.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, backup/summer cruiser
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon SLT - wannabe winter DD - many issues, returning sometime in the 2020s
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  11. #71
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    huh, i'd have expected it to come out behind the bolt head, not between the crank and flexplate. Not sure I put sealer on mine either now that I think on it. Might have done loctite, which would seal the threads.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #72
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Yeah, I was certain it was the rear main seal. Despite no leaks from the engine before the swap and none of the gaskets I replaced while it was out of the car looked like they needed it.

    When I removed the bolt at the bottom of the circle oil came out (for maybe half a second, no more than a couple seconds) like I had removed an oil drain plug. It was at that moment that I realized I probably ordered a rear main seal for nothing. I replaced it anyway but it definitely did not appear to need replacing just like the rest of the gaskets I had already done (heads on up + oil pan). After the fact I read in the '91 service manual that I should have put thread sealer on those bolts. I've removed and installed AODs a half dozen+ times, but this was my first engine swap. Won't make that mistake again.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, backup/summer cruiser
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon SLT - wannabe winter DD - many issues, returning sometime in the 2020s
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    I was the one who put the seal in. It looked right when it went in.

    That said, I dunno if we stuck thread sealer on the bolts. I know I didn't...
    No worries here. And yes it looked right when it went in. Agreed. But I was thinking about things.

    I do not recall applying oil to the rear main seal ID...and I bet it’s spun....dry tight seal. Just like my 87 Taurus that someone installed incorrectly, causing it to do the same thing

    Vic - mines doing that exact leak like yours. It’s coming from inside the bellhousing like gadget said. Neither Zach nor I applied any kind of thread sealer on the flexplate bolts - I never have in the past. Come to think of it they were damp threads but I don’t recall seeing any sealer on the bolts from the Explorer.
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
    03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

  14. #74
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    thinking about it, the holes for the crank don't go into the oil pan on the engine. The rear main seal is between the bolt flange and the oil pan so there shouldn't need to be sealer on anything.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  15. #75
    GMN Regular WagonMan's Avatar
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    From what I remember, The one piece seal has to be installed in about 1/8 inch, not flush with the block. There is a special installation tool that makes it fit in that way. I remember reading if the seal is flush with the block, it WILL leak. WagonMan
    1990 Colony Park
    1970 HEMI Superbird

  16. #76
    Southern
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    Quote Originally Posted by WagonMan View Post
    From what I remember, The one piece seal has to be installed in about 1/8 inch, not flush with the block. There is a special installation tool that makes it fit in that way. I remember reading if the seal is flush with the block, it WILL leak. WagonMan
    And this was the correct answer! Tat was my mistake, it's supposed to be staked back a touch, not flush.

    BTW - Hello everyone. It's been awhile!

    So it sat parked for a few months, then in December 2020, I drove it over to the transmission shop and paid them to do the rear main seal. Its a few hundred dollars of work, but my fault - so I can pay the stupid tax.

    After I got it back in January, I put a car cover over it - I became busy with other projects. It was mobile enough for now. In like February this year, a 89 LTD Crown Wagon showed up at a Pull A Part an hour and a half from me. And thanks to Kodachrome Wolfe, he confirmed it had the K code rear end - it was a tow package wagon. A 3.55 Trac-Loc on a car with 96K original miles. So I went and pulled the rear end out (love southern cars).

    Then in August, I decided it was time to do the upgrades on the suspension and rear end. Kodachrome Wolfe again came out - helped me pull the old axle housing out, and at least set the new housing in place with bolts in - that's not a fun job!!! The car sat for a few weeks, as I didn't have time with my job. He then came back AGAIN and helped me get everything bolted back into place. I replaced both rear dead yellow Monroes with some Bilsteins. Same with the fronts - both nearly dead Monroes replaced with Bilsteins. Did I mention I installed a Police rear sway bar and arms in the rear? The drums were cut, pads were replaced. 1 axle shaft replaced (found a NOS ford one), new bearing and seal. Driver side was left alone - it was fine. Bilsteins nuts (lol) require you to hold the shaft with an allen while tightening. I had room in the town car to do this - there was no room in the wagon. Zach had a great idea - replace the nyloc nuts with regular nuts and roll - agreed, so we did just that. the IAT was plumbed into the factory airbox up front. All brakes were bled. and a burnout test run was performed on the garbage old tires- the car runs GREAT! Wow. Lots of good tip in power for a land barge. Shifts are too firm, I need to dial back the TV pressure. I'm happy with it. The handling is hilarious considering what the car looks like - it shouldn't be able to turn so well for what it is (and how it looks!)

    I did replace the return line for the power steering since it was making a mess with some newer style clamps - the old factory ones were not working properly. Greased the whole front end - which is still in good shape, no play in ball joints or tie rods. Very dry under the car now. Still lots of touch up stuff to do - add ons I'd like to do. But all in time. No rush. I installed some new Cooper Trendsetters with white walls on the 15" factory turbines. I just drove the car 165 miles for 3 continuous hours to my parents. It didn't lose a drop of oil or coolant. Can't tell the temp since the gauge reads pegged all the time (need to fix that). Also want to fix the exhaust leaks from the flanges and (non-existant) air piping.

    I'm very happy again how well this car runs and drives. Many thanks to a truly great friend, Zach (Kodachrome Wolfe). Without him, this project would not have gone as well as it could have. I'll post some pictures of the car in the next few days after I wipe it down. Shame how faded the wood and paint are, so it's not much to look at.
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
    03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

  17. #77
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    I have a full set of Bilsteins myself ready to install. I noticed the nylock nuts they provided and thought the rears would be a pain. I may go the same route. Thanks for mentioning that.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    I have a full set of Bilsteins myself ready to install. I noticed the nylock nuts they provided and thought the rears would be a pain. I may go the same route. Thanks for mentioning that.
    Yea. I have the size noted (box with the nuts) - Will get that for you tomorrow. I may get another set so it's double nutted. Very happy with the ride quality.
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
    03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

  19. #79
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Always fun times with this car. It was definitely nice to finally not see it in an assumed service position. I think it's been about two-ish years since the heavy drivetrain work started and I definitely don't recall it going anywhere during then.

    The Explorer swap and the K-Code made his wagon a pretty lively party once everything was going. Bilsteins on the corners and police rear bar definitely got it solidly planted on the road since I drove it like I stole it on the initial run out of his driveway. The LSD in the K-Code was not worn out and was working great on the hard rips.

    His wagon definitely hits differently than a HO swapped one since the torque is more available down low. Certainly interesting being able to compare the two setups now in similar-ish vehicles. Still wouldn't mind toeing up the '87 up with his '89.

    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    I have a full set of Bilsteins myself ready to install. I noticed the nylock nuts they provided and thought the rears would be a pain. I may go the same route. Thanks for mentioning that.
    I suggested the normal nuts over the nylock style ones because the old Monroes used regular nuts, which made removal a breeze. Throw a wrench on top, then twist the shock body and they spun right out. Same deal for installing the Bilsteins like that, since we fooled with the nylock setup for maybe about 20-25 minutes before it became obvious how much time was gonna be wasted trying to fit that trash up there. I think we had the rears fitted in about 20 minutes with normal nuts by just performing the removal technique in reverse.


    Since I don't think a photo of the finished engine ever got posted, I did take one:


    Very unassuming Explorer engine hiding out.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Awaiting Resurrection
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (230K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  20. #80
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    The least nicest looking vehicle in the fleet, has the best battery in the fleet.

    Once your wagon is back from the Doc, we can definitely do some side by side comparisons. Hopefully before the pollen begins!

    Glad you took a picture, I neglected to. Love the custom IAT gasket, lol. Maybe one day when I flush coolant, I'll re attach the block heater setup.
    -Nick M.
    Columbia, SC

    66 Squire, 89 Colony Park, 90 TC, 03 TC, 06 TC, 07 TC (2x)
    03 BMW 540iT, 07 Toyota Tundra SR5 Dbl Cab/5.7 2WD

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