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Thread: low oil pressure

  1. #1

    Default low oil pressure

    hey guys im baffled as to why my low oil pressure keeps coming on. did a oil change. has about 5 1/2 qts of oil due to high cap oil filter and when im rolling to a stop, i get a low oil pressure light coming on. i also have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and it shows the same thing, it plummets close to 0 and sometimes justs reads 0. A few seconds later, it bumps right back up to 15 psi. what do you all think? need new oil pump or clogged oil galleys? the block was rebuilt about 5 years ago or so.

  2. #2
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Me thinks clogged galleries would lead to higher oil pressure. Could be you need a new oil pump or stuff is just really loose in the bottom end or cam bearings. When it hits 0psi do you end up hearing valvetrain noise?
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  3. #3

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    valve train noise has been going on for almost 2 years since i got the top end redone ( refreshed and ported heads). While cold the block is at 60 psi and when warm ranges from 10 - 30 psi in idle and while driving 35- 60 psi depending on how warm it is. I also forgot to mention i hear a clunking noise while decelerating from the engine bay. new motor mounts so maybe the oil pump might be loose?
    Last edited by dan; 05-17-2017 at 11:53 AM.

  4. #4
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Sounds like the top end wasn't done right and needs to be done again, noise is no bueno. You could try replacing the pump but being that it's been driven with 0 psi and noisy I'm willing to bet it's rebuild time and that if you were to dissect the oil filter you'd find metal shavings.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  5. #5

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    i still have the oil filter from the last oil change. i can probably dissect it later and see what i find. how would i go about to dissect it? just pry it open?

  6. #6
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Cut off wheel or hacksaw should do, right at the seam. Pull the filter media out and then open it up to see what's in it. Post pics. If there's metal in it you'd see it right away in good light, would glimmer like metallic paint.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  7. #7

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    will do thanks. i also have a video of the motor running , not sure if i can upload it here. you can kind of hear the rattling on it.

  8. #8

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    https://youtu.be/-rdTTK53jTE link to YouTube for the video

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  9. #9
    3 out of 4 vehicles I've owned have been Box Panthers. VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    Looks like a '90 or '91 if I'm not mistaken. How many miles on the bottom end? Also, what weight and type of oil are you running?
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, alternate DD
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  10. #10
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Sounds like bad bottom end bearings. The pressure when cold, no pressure at hot idle is exactly what mine did when I got coolant in the pan and didn't change it before driving.
    Vague possibility the pump is failing, but honestly I have never actually seen a V8 with low oil pressure that had a worn out oil pump. Its two gears that spin against one another inside a housing. Unless you run sand through it, there just isn't much to wear out.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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  11. #11

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    10w-30 and odometer doesn't work so not sure on exact miles. And the sound has been going on for almost 2 years, I'd assume if it was bearings, the block would be toast by now unless I got lucky and have a magic block? Lol

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  12. #12

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    https://youtu.be/jDcPCQuMiro took this video right now after dropping my girl off at work

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  13. #13
    Full of Greenhouse Gas Tiggie's Avatar
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    At a highway speed cruise in OD, do you notice if the oil pressure changes with engine load vs coasting at the same speed?
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  14. #14

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    No stays at 40 but once I start slowing down to a stop is the only time it dips

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  15. #15
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    ...Vague possibility the pump is failing, but honestly I have never actually seen a V8 with low oil pressure that had a worn out oil pump. Its two gears that spin against one another inside a housing. Unless you run sand through it, there just isn't much to wear out.
    This is what I was thinking. IMO the pump either works or it doesn't lol. I've seen videos where people slapped new pumps on but I never held much faith in their repair. Pumps move volume, pressure is generated from the resistance of the volume moving. Sloppy, worn out bearings will allow more volume through and lead to a pressure loss.

    Quote Originally Posted by dan View Post
    10w-30 and odometer doesn't work so not sure on exact miles. And the sound has been going on for almost 2 years, I'd assume if it was bearings, the block would be toast by now unless I got lucky and have a magic block? Lol

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    I've heard stories of these things soldiering on long after the battle has been lost.. You can toast bearings and still have a good block. It's only when they crack or a rod makes a window through the side of said block that you've bought the farm so to speak. I'd try throwing the thickest oil possible at it, that Valvoline 20w-50 goop perhaps. Can't hurt at this point and I have been running it in my Fury for years.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  16. #16

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    I believe O'Reilly's is the only place that carries that weight. I got a noob question, if the pan is 5 qts do I need 6 qts in total ? I put in 5 1/2 about a week or 2 ago when I did the oil change. My dad and I initially agreed that the clicking was coming from the front of the block. Not sure if that helps. On Friday imma do another oil change and open that filter up and see what I find. I also bought a mechanics stethoscope so I can pinpoint where exactly the noise is coming. For right now I parked her and driving the spare buick

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  17. #17
    3 out of 4 vehicles I've owned have been Box Panthers. VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    When I was 16-17 my dad was running 50 weight oil and a bottle of motor honey in "my" '87 CV (dad owned it, unless mom or dad needed it I was the only one that drove that car until I was moved to "my" '88 County Squire). I don't remember what noise dad said it was making but I never heard anything unusual from that engine running that stuff so I suppose it worked. I drove that car for a year, then dad drove it daily for a couple years, then he sold it to a friend and I'm not sure where it went from there.

    10W-30 is what was recommended for the rebuilt engine in my '89 MGM, and I still run 10W-30 in that engine 120K miles after the rebuild and the engine is now in on of my '91 MGMs.
    Last edited by VicCrownVic; 05-18-2017 at 08:44 AM.
    Vic

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, alternate DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe Winter DD - Down... again... Fn POS
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic


  18. #18
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    When I was 16-17 my dad was running 50 weight oil and a bottle of motor honey in "my" '87 CV (dad owned it, unless mom or dad needed it I was the only one that drove that car until I was moved to "my" '88 County Squire). I don't remember what noise dad said it was making but I never heard anything unusual from that engine running that stuff so I suppose it worked. I drove that car for a year, then dad drove it daily for a couple years, then he sold it to a friend and I'm not sure where it went from there.

    10W-30 is what was recommended for the rebuilt engine in my '89 MGM, and I still run 10W-30 in that engine 120K miles after the rebuild and the engine is now in on of my '91 MGMs.
    I never tried the motor honey stuff, suppose it would make the oil even thicker judging how that stuff pretty much has the viscosity of honey. I'd advise heating that shit up and adding it while adding the oil so it doesn't just glop right down to the bottom of the pan or go nowhere at all. If an engine is OK I always run what the manual states to run, right to where oil burn and other crap starts to happen.

    These cars dip sticks don't read right and since mine burn oil I always buy 6 qts at oil change time. I tend to use just 5 to prime the filter & fill the crankcase but the stick reads over full. Then I maintain it within the cross hatch but have always wondered if I should just notch my dipstick right where it is after actually adding 5qts...
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  19. #19
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Stock oil capacity is 5 quarts when you change the oil filter.

    The bearings can be loose for a long time and finally lose just that last little bit to drop the pressure. I've seen these things knock for years and still have some pressure.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body, 246k and counting

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  20. #20
    The GMN Cowboy™ MrMarquis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Stock oil capacity is 5 quarts when you change the oil filter.

    The bearings can be loose for a long time and finally lose just that last little bit to drop the pressure. I've seen these things knock for years and still have some pressure.
    Mine knocks like a son of a bitch after 195,000 and I always have decent oil pressure. Just changed it today and I had two bars of pressure on my old LCD gauge at idle. I think that's about 20psi. Usually sits around 30-50 running.



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