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Thread: low oil pressure

  1. #21
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Stock oil capacity is 5 quarts when you change the oil filter...
    With that said I think I'll notch my dipstick.
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  2. #22

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    alrighty guys update on the mercury. put in some 15-50 oil, worked like a charm. she idles hot a 17-20 psi, while driving 40-60. pressure doesnt dip anymore it just goes down to 17-20 and stays there. thanks guys !!

  3. #23

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    Here she is. Baby cam, ported e6 heads, shorty headers with full custom 2.5 dual exhaust. Rebuilt 8.8 with true posi 4.10s

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  4. #24
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Cool. You have a set of 1.5" spacers to run the mustang wheels up front too?
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  5. #25

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    havent bought the front ones yet. needed bigger tires in the rear to keep from peeling out from everywhere i left. so i spent my monies there first lol

  6. #26
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    That help with the valvetrain noise at all?
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  7. #27

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    nope still there. im starting to think its either a bad lifter or a loose rocker arm. seems to be coming from near the dizzy and front valve covers.

  8. #28
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Could always try throwing some seafoam in the crankcase ~150 miles before your next oil change.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  9. #29

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    i'll probably try that. i put in some stp oil treatment this last oil change. helped out the noise a tad bit. car tends to hit the middle mark in the temp gauge while driving and will drop back down between to O and the R while at idle. any ideas there or is that normal?

  10. #30
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    There's this dude on YouTube who threw it in the crankcase of his old 2.9 Ranger and it free'd up a sticky lifter(s) in seconds.

    Typically all the Old fords I've ever driven go to the middle and stay there as if there's some sort of buffer to keep them there. In your case I wouldn't worry about it as I'd expect it to heat up at idle..
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  11. #31

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    I'll try that out after I get her up and running. Battery terminals keep coming loose and sometimes stalls so I have her parked. And at idle is well below the middle just when I'm driving is when it hits the middle of the gauge. That's what baffles me sometimes.

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  12. #32
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Hmm, what's the level of coolant like in the radiator & overflow tank?
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  13. #33
    Full of Greenhouse Gas Tiggie's Avatar
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    Heating while driving but cool at idle has been symptoms of a restricted or insufficient cooling system in my experience. Clogged Radiator in my case.

    That car also had wacky oil pressure but quite the opposite of yours. It would peg the oil pressure gauge on the highway. Stuck relief valve.
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  14. #34

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    radiator is full, i check every few days since my water pump leaks so i keep refilling it. it only leaks because i loosened up the wrong bolt when taking out the steering pump to put in a new one. the radiator is a aluminum one about 2 years old. im thinking of upgrading all my hoses, from what i heard if the lower hose doesnt have a spring, it can compress at higher rpms.

  15. #35
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Mine has no spring, and it does not overheat.

    Is your fan clutch any good?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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  16. #36

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    replaced with water pump and radiator. wouldnt fan clutch overheat at idle and not when driving?

  17. #37

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    an idea popped into my head, would it be possible that the transmission oil is making it heat up while driving but when im at idle it cools off? i run mostly in 'd' on the city and im usually cruising at about 2500-3500 rpms.

  18. #38
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    cruising RPMs should be more in the 1500-2000 ballpark. If you're running that high, then you're probably going to overheat with a stock cooling system. It should never overheat at idle if everything works. If the thermostat is sticking, or sticking half open (had one do that to me), it could keep the system from cooling well since it won't be moving as much water through the radiator. Running with no thermostat seems to move water too fast though and it doesn't have time to cool off in the radiator before it gets back to the engine.

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  19. #39

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    I have 4.10s with a baby cam if that helps. And btw it never overheats at idle, just when driving, more particularly at highway speeds hitting 3500 on OD , it get to 3/4 of the gauge then drops down when I get off and stop at a light

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  20. #40
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    if the trans is putting out enough heat to overwhelm the radiator, the trans is going to nuke itself, and you have way not enough radiator.

    Confirm the fan works properly. They're not needed only at idle.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body, 246k and counting

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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