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My first post - 1985 colony park in uk - cfi & eec-vi issues!

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    #16
    It does what the name implies it does, it pulls the high idle cam out of position to return it to normal idle. The way these work, the bimetal heater setup works to push the high idle choke into position. As it warms up, it reduces pressure on that high idle cam until the vacuum pulloff can lift it out of position and return you to normal low idle. In a car with a choke it would do exactly the same thing, except there would also be a choke plate attached to the high idle cam. Basically one part turns it on, the other turns it off.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #17
      Thanks for the advice! Today I ordered the choke pull off diaphragm and also the Thermostat / Heater spring part as well. I'll check that spring out when fitting those parts, but I'm sure it will bend into position if it is wrong at the moment. I'll post again when the parts are on the car!!

      Comment


        #18
        Sweet. Another CFI set-up lives to see another day.
        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

        Comment


          #19
          Hi,
          Just an update, we fitted the choke pull off diaphragm and Thermostat / Heater spring, also put the small spring into the correct position. All seems ok, although we will adjust the heater spring when the weather gets colder, at the moment it starts the same as before. thanks for the help and advice.

          On to the next issue!! The car was supplied with almost every option, over $5,000 in total. I will attach a photo of the window sticker. Now all the options work correctly, including the climate control/air con.

          The cruise control functions all work fine from the steering wheel, but the brake pedal doesn't switch the cruise off (it does from the steering wheel). I guess there must be a switch on the brake pedal but can't find the part on Rock Auto, any ideas ?? The auto park brake release, which is vacuum operated, works fine.

          Thanks in advance!!
          Attached Files

          Comment


            #20
            Cool. Usually setting that thing to the middle of the range gets you pretty close. Tweaking it either direction will mostly just change how long the high idle is active.

            Do the brake lights actually work? The last time this happened to me, the fuse for the brake lights had blown. The cruise looks for the voltage to change on the brake light circuit in order to drop it. There is no separate electrical switch to disengage the cruise. As a backup, there is a vacuum dump valve above the brake pedal that will release if you shove down far enough on the pedal, assuming its still connected at least. Might be worth checking to make sure someone hasn't capped it. The dump valve sits vertical above the brake pedal assembly. The other end of that hose is in the engine compartment, connected to a Y fitting right at the side of the cruise control unit.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #21
              Hi from the UK,
              Time to pick your brains again!!
              When I first had the 1985 Colony Park shipped over 3 years ago the vendor had spent $1,100 fixing the aircon/climate control and it worked perfectly. First hot day the compressor went! I got a recon one from Rock Auto, had it fitted, re-gassed and all was well. First hot day of this year no cold air, i have just had the air con regassed. It had lost one third of its gas. Anyway now the compressor is not kicking in. The clutch section at the front of the compressor spins freely, I w40'd it and gave it a knock, still not kicking in. I have booked it in for tomorrow morning to get it looked at. just thought I'd ask you guys of any suggestions first. thanks for your help again!!

              Comment


                #22
                Well, sometimes the low pressure switch (or whatever it is called, someone will clean up my ignorance) goes bad and that could cause your compressor not to kick on. If the system is indeed low then the switch is doing it's job, you'll have to hook a gauge up to it to see if there's any pressure in the system.

                When you say the vendor spent money fixing the A/C system what did they replace? Your leaks could be as simple as bad O-rings to as nasty as needing an evaporator core...
                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
                  Well, sometimes the low pressure switch (or whatever it is called, someone will clean up my ignorance) goes bad and that could cause your compressor not to kick on. If the system is indeed low then the switch is doing it's job, you'll have to hook a gauge up to it to see if there's any pressure in the system.

                  When you say the vendor spent money fixing the A/C system what did they replace? Your leaks could be as simple as bad O-rings to as nasty as needing an evaporator core...
                  Pretty much this. I've replaced everything on my 93 except for the evap core. The compressor twice now. I do have 240K miles on it though.

                  Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                  rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                  Originally posted by dmccaig
                  Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    The compressor on my '88 was replaced 2 or 3 years ago and really hasn't seen much use since I don't drive it. But on our latest road trip I noticed some death rattle occasionally and that's got me concerned. Original made that noise just before it let go.
                    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                    Comment


                      #25
                      85 colony park air con

                      Thanks for your quick replies.
                      On checking, there was no power to the connector above the compressor clutch (my mechanic said both terminals were reading as earth).
                      Power was present at the low pressure switch constantly however.
                      I will attach 2 photos to show the parts. The compressor socket has lost its plug along the way and is now connected with 2 spade connectors, however thats how the car came to me and has worked great for 3 years.
                      What I do need to say is that twice, on Wednesday and again today the compressor did kick in while we were under the hood, I don't know if that points to a bad wire or whether the lo pressure switch can work intermittently, how ever that was only for two brief moments but at that time the mechanic said there was power to the compressor socket!!!!
                      I dont know how the wiring goes from the low pressure switch to the compressor socket, any ideas? Or could it be the low pressure switch working then not working?
                      Think I need to start by replacing the switch but I cant find the part on Rock Auto, or anywhere else for that matter, and help or advice?? Thanks!
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                        #26
                        If the pressure switch is good, meaning it reads low ohms from terminal to terminal and passes voltage, there is the wide open throttle relay between that point and the compressor. It should be the black relay on the left side inner fender. The ECM will trigger this if it thinks you've got the pedal down, or the relay could be bad.


                        Rockauto lists it under electrical switch & relay, its called the AC clutch switch. GPD 1711326 (R-12), Four Seasons 35960 (R-12), Four Seasons 36676 (R134a), Motorcraft YH513.

                        THe pressure is slightly different for R12 vs R134a, but the switch can be adjusted. Unplug the connector, and there is a screw head underneath it. Adjust for cutout about 20 psi on the low side if needed.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #27
                          The connector that goes onto the compressor is supposed to have a diode in line with it. When I got my ‘87, the original owner had some rather bad looking repair for the compressor connector. A/C worked fine until I was driving one day and it stated blowing warm. I could smack the connector and I’d have air briefly before it stopped.

                          I went to a salvage yard and cut a replacement diode and connector off a junk car. A/C has always come on reliably since. I know in your case that’s not rather feasible, but those connectors may be out there. I’d see if you can source up the proper connector if that helps any.


                          My Cars:
                          -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                          -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                          -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                          -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

                          Comment


                            #28
                            The diode runs across the coil, not in series with it. Its to keep it from producing a nasty voltage spike when the clutch cycles out.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Thanks for your help again.
                              I jumped the connections on the Low Pressure Switch connector and the compressor came in right away!! Just going to order a new switch from RockAuto, $25 including shipping to the UK. Lovely!
                              Never did manage to find that WOT relay, though I did spot the diode in line to the compressor connection.
                              Thanks for keeping my Mercury on the road over here, it had a feature in the UK Classic American Magazine back in January.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Here's where the relay should be on the driver side fender. The ECA relay is brown, the fuel pump is green, and the WOT should be black or white (can't remember which). The horn is hanging outside the plastic shrouds. Watch for spiders and other creepy crawlies when digging around in there.
                                Attached Files

                                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                                Originally posted by dmccaig
                                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                                Comment

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