PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Page 44 of 45 FirstFirst ... 3442434445 LastLast
Results 861 to 880 of 898

Thread: kishy's 1985 Country Squire

  1. #861
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,962

    Default

    Pressurized hiss? Isn't that actually vacuum induced? I thought that's a function of the EVAP system on these and other vehicles. I know all of my GM vehicles do it, and if they didn't I'd be concerned. But I thought that's a function of the system, to slurp out fuel vapors?
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  2. #862
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,364

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Pressurized hiss? Isn't that actually vacuum induced? I thought that's a function of the EVAP system on these and other vehicles. I know all of my GM vehicles do it, and if they didn't I'd be concerned. But I thought that's a function of the system, to slurp out fuel vapors?
    I'm not going to claim to be an expert on how evap systems work, but I believe the evap stuff is relatively closed off e.g. no engine vacuum except when some conditions are met to operate the purge valve. On a CFI car, that is a purely mechanical subsystem, as there is no purge solenoid. I'm not sure exactly what conditions make it vent but it's completely vacuum controlled.

    My belief is that the tank pressurizes (does not go into actual vacuum, e.g. vacuumed down to atmosphere and then beyond that unless things are not working) due to the formation of fuel vapour and other factors like thermal expansion, such as from the return line providing warm fuel into the tank. If the purge valve has not operated under whatever circumstances make it operate, the filler cap will release some pressure when you open it.

    I kind of want to read the emissions manual now.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  3. #863
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,556

    Default

    it really shouldnt be building pressure. The caps are meant to work as a one-way valve, air in, no fumes out. The fumes go through the vent on top of the tank to the charcoal can. That vent has a check ball or disc or something in it. If its building pressure, I would be not at ll surprised if its stuck or clogged. Don't think you can get to it without dropping the tank, so it becomes one of those ignore until forced to not ignore issues.

    the engine sucks the fumes out of the charcoal canister when the valve opens, though offhand I don't know what conditions that happens under. No sensors or anything to actually tell the computer if any of that works. So far as it knows as long as the solenoid circuit is not electrically open, it has to be working because the ECM said to work.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #864
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,364

    Default

    No ECM in the picture at all. 100% vacuum controlled on pre-86.

    I am certain that some pressure is normal or the cap wouldn't specifically provide a warning about it. That said, less than 1psi is probably enough to make a hiss in a space that large.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  5. #865
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,556

    Default

    isn't that valve that opens the evap connected to a solenoid though? I know its a 3 port thing, one to the carbon, one to manifold, and the line that opens it goes someplace. always assumed that was to a solenoid controlled by the ECM.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #866
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,364

    Default

    Eehhhh, probably. Just looked at it briefly.

    Vapour line from tank to canister is uninterrupted (does have the little guy on top of the tank and as I recall, I verified that was clear when I had the tank out a few years ago).
    Purge line from canister goes to one of the ports of the valve.
    Another line of equal size goes out of the valve to the intake manifold below the throttle body.
    There is a third line connected to the valve, and it seems to run to the bank of solenoids on the driver side manifold, however I'm not sure which one it is. There are 4 in total, in addition to the ported vacuum switch (which I believe is mainly used for the exhaust flapper thingy).

    Operating theory might actually be that the tank doesn't vent into the canister when the engine is running at all, but of course I may be totally off on that. I seem to recall somewhere in my brain that the main time evap is considered a meaningful emissions type is when the vehicle is parked.
    Last edited by kishy; 08-26-2022 at 10:26 PM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  7. #867
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,556

    Default

    I think its supposed to just vent into the carbon, and at some point the engine sucks air through the carbon to extract the vapor.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #868
    I post a lot...
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yonkers NY
    Posts
    4,696

    Default

    That is correct.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

  9. #869
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,364

    Default



    Tonight, 8/30 at 88,200ish km, I tackled a few items.

    • I recently attempted to replace the driver side mirror with a previous junkyard pull, but one of the screw heads stripped and I was unable to extract it. Tonight, I drilled out the screw head, extracted the remainder, tapped/chased the hole, and used a junkyard screw to attach the new mirror. It no longer freely flaps in the wind.
    • The driver window motor has been intermittently problematic for a while, and has been acting up worse recently. I replaced it with new, ACI part number 83394, which I've had good luck with previously in another car. Proper fitment, fast smooth operation, and lots of wire slack.
    • I cut out the backing material of the door card (using factory-provided perforations) in front of the speaker. As a reminder, these are junkyard-harvested door cards from a differently-optioned car. The same will need to be repeated for the passenger side. If I happen upon the proper bezels/grilles to go over top of the speakers, I will install those. These door cards do have the storage pockets in them so fitment of those might get weird.
    • I swapped out the visors with recent junkyard pulls.
    • Together with the visors, swapped to the newer and much better design of clips to secure the visors.














    Last edited by kishy; 08-31-2022 at 12:32 AM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  10. #870
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,962

    Default

    New mirror takes away from the character of the car, but no flappy-flap is nice. Good job on the strip-out extraction. I've been fortunate that I've never stripped out or snapped anything of my own. If I did, jeez, I don't think I'd have the aptitude to try and get it out. Reminds me, I need a thread chaser thingy and some taps & dies. (Been saying that for years..)
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  11. #871
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,364

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    New mirror takes away from the character of the car, but no flappy-flap is nice. Good job on the strip-out extraction. I've been fortunate that I've never stripped out or snapped anything of my own. If I did, jeez, I don't think I'd have the aptitude to try and get it out. Reminds me, I need a thread chaser thingy and some taps & dies. (Been saying that for years..)
    I think I like the brightwork to be bright, even with the rest of the car being rather not bright. Maybe. I dunno.

    The old mirror may be repairable. One of the 3 cables used to position it is disconnected at the glass end. I am not sure what that mechanism looks like inside but may decide to study it closer.

    The screw that broke off was remarkably seized in there. The tool that stripped it originally was my Milwaukee M12 impact driver with a pretty fresh bit. The screw head just turned to dust immediately. The threads ended up looking reasonable, but I ran a tap into them anyway to try to prevent future stupidity and also used anti-seize on the screws. They're an M5 thread. Between that and the countersunk head, maybe not the easiest fastener to get your hands on.

    A tap and die set is something you hopefully don't need often, but saves your day when you do need it. Extractors of various designs are similarly useful.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  12. #872
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,556

    Default

    the mirror fastening method on the Lincoln is one of the things I think is just a better design. Stud in the mirror, nut on the inside of the door. Never had one that wouldn't let go, but the Ford ones strip out all the time. Phillips are just a garbage fastener.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #873
    fomoco panthers !
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Bangor,Maine
    Posts
    4,412

    Default

    New Ford mirror screws are hard to find. Part number is : N800349S. I have a couple of nos in stock just in case.
    This the the only tool I used to remove the screws after soaking the area with PB blaster. Works well.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_4397.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	62.4 KB 
ID:	58381

  14. #874
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,962

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    I think I like the brightwork to be bright, even with the rest of the car being rather not bright. Maybe. I dunno...

    ..The screw that broke off was remarkably seized in there. The tool that stripped it originally was my Milwaukee M12 impact driver with a pretty fresh bit. The screw head just turned to dust immediately. The threads ended up looking reasonable, but I ran a tap into them anyway to try to prevent future stupidity and also used anti-seize on the screws. They're an M5 thread. Between that and the countersunk head, maybe not the easiest fastener to get your hands on.

    A tap and die set is something you hopefully don't need often, but saves your day when you do need it. Extractors of various designs are similarly useful.
    I'm with you. Kind of like how all of my daily drivers are ratty on the outside, but clean on the inside and underhood. Everything must work. (Yet there is usually one thing that doesn't) OCD OCD OCD

    Or how about just snaps into a bajillion pieces? That's my luck with those big T45 or T50 fasteners for seat belts and such. I've had considerable luck getting fasteners to let go by beating on the them with a hammer, not 100% effective though. I've still had to walk away from enough would-be junkyard scores.

    I certainly need to get a set of those and some extractors. Then that's more chit in my kit. I already don't go to the junkyards for how much chit I gotta back up and figure out how to lug around. I don't know how I got by with what was essentially a lunchbox by comparison in the old days.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    ...Phillips are just a garbage fastener.
    This, along with slotted/flat head fasteners. Just no. But then Ford went and used Phillips to secure things like the wheel lip moldings. Oh how much wonderful fun those are to remove. (Re-reading that reminded me of a song.. "..And I'm just.. itching to tell you about them. Seafood COCK-tails.. CRABS! CRayfish..")
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  15. #875
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Bedford, VA
    Posts
    6,826

    Default

    Per the internet, apparently we can partially blame old Henry Blue Oval for the Phillips. https://obportland.org/the-cursed-phillips-screw/

    Ford used pozidrive on the door strikers of my 68. They are pretty nice and are much harder to strip. Basically square tipped Phillips.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

  16. #876
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,414

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    the mirror fastening method on the Lincoln is one of the things I think is just a better design. Stud in the mirror, nut on the inside of the door. Never had one that wouldn't let go, but the Ford ones strip out all the time. Phillips are just a garbage fastener.
    Yep, stripped the ones on my Crown Vic when I was doing the dew wipes and ended up replacing them with philips stainless steel hex head screws. That way if the philips stripped out, I could still easily attach a socket to it, or just skip the whole screwdriver step. When I went to replace the dew wipes with the ones from my Crown Vic on my Grand Marquis, the bolts came right out with a socket. The ones on the GM stripped out and that project moved on to the "TODO" list of another day.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    New Ford mirror screws are hard to find. Part number is : N800349S. I have a couple of nos in stock just in case.
    This the the only tool I used to remove the screws after soaking the area with PB blaster. Works well.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_4397.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	62.4 KB 
ID:	58381
    That ratcheting screwdriver is awesome. I have the same exact one. I think I bought it at Harbor Freight? Works great and I've used it way more than I ever thought I would have.


    '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

  17. #877
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,962

    Default

    Have had great luck using my Phillips bit with a 1/4" drive ratcheting wrench. But yeah, if the bits weren't rounded at the edges they wouldn't cam out so much and strip. Hate 'em.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  18. #878
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,364

    Default

    Dug into some sound system topics over the last little while.

    I do not really dislike the stock premium-but-not-JBL sound system; it is acceptable. What is not acceptable is lack of options for getting sound into it from external sources, and also the scratchy pots issue. Gadget has previously explained how we can do an aux-in mod which piggybacks on the cassette player wiring within the radio: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...n-stock-stereo

    One of these days I'm going to put together that solution and put the first matter to bed, but in the meantime I've tested out a couple other more off-the-shelf options: FM modulator (a "wired FM transmitter" basically), and also combining that with a Bluetooth receiver.

    I built a little test harness to plug in this mess to the lighter socket and tried it out.





    Impressions...the quality is excellent through the FM modulator. It really sounds clear and I like the potential tidiness of the install if all this is hardwired and tucked nicely in the dash.
    Using the Bluetooth receiver into the FM modulator is also very clear.
    The main drawback I identified is that the FM modulator is auto-switching, which means it waits for some input before it takes over the frequency it uses. Both frequencies it can support are in use nearby, and the volume level difference between those channels and the audio from the FM modulator is substantial, so you need to be ready on the volume knob after the 10 second power down timeout when your aux in audio stops. If it was manually switched or active whenever it's powered, it would be better. There might be a way to modify it to achieve that.

    Some parts are in the mail to try building an aux-in jack as Gadget demonstrated.


    After messing with that, I decided to try to tackle the scratchy pots issue (e.g. crackling volume knob, loss of speaker channels at various knob positions, etc)
    Took lid off radio, sprayed contact cleaner into the pots, and worked them back and forth a bunch.
    Results are promising.


    The cruise control has been acting kinda broken. Set it at 100, it'll coast down to maybe 95 then accelerate rapidly up to 110ish (and do so dramatically enough to cause kickdown), then fall back below the set speed again. Basically it's treating the throttle like an on/off switch and that's not so great.

    I figured the problem would either be erratic speed input (bad VSS) or the potentiometer inside the cruise servo is getting scratchy. I pulled the cruise servo from the 83 Town Car I cut the quarter panel out of recently in the junkyard, and installed it today. Problem solved. Bonus trivia: if you connect the vacuum lines backwards, it gives manifold vacuum to the servo's diaphragm directly. Things get briefly exciting if you make this error.

    I also replaced the driver wiper pivot and corresponding bushing in pursuit of the same problems I recently fixed on the Lincoln (over-traveling wipers). This one has slop somewhere else that I can't pinpoint without taking it apart more, but things are working betterish now at least.

    I've been having issues with the TV rod getting stuck at the full TV position, which has an effect I'd describe kind of like getting stuck in second gear, but with no engine braking. This has happened before and is always the fault of schmoo gumming up the throttle shaft. I cleaned it all and re-lubricated it and it seems better now.

    Need to chase a near-WOT lack of power. Vacuum problem or TPS or something. Maybe the MAP loses accuracy in lower vacuum conditions. Basically it pulls hard with maybe half throttle, but falls on its face if it's given more pedal. No missing though, which is weird since more air but not a correct amount of fuel to match should cause misfiring, I'd expect.
    Last edited by kishy; 09-11-2022 at 03:51 PM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  19. #879
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Whitestone, NY
    Posts
    20,808

    Default

    Did she go WOT once car was turned on with vacuum lines backwards to the servo?

    Following what you come up with ultimately for the bluetooth mod. I like the idea of things hidden so everything appears as stock.

    I settled (or compromised) on doing this: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post848607

    with something very very similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-...s%2C419&sr=8-3

    And I LOVE IT. SO damn easy to connect. work fantastic and was very affordable. It is the lazy man option!
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by ootdega View Post
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  20. #880
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,556

    Default

    The other thing I've found to cause severe hunting of the cruise speed is a vac leak on the dump valve. Had the bad pot thing on the Conti, though it was actually broken wiring to it rather than the pot in my case. Fox CC units unplug only at the control unit under the dash, the servo has about 20" of wire attached to it and a large oval grommet right in the middle of it all. Somehow, a previous clown managed to get the wiring out of the grommet, then re-installed the grommet and ran the wire between the grommet and the metal firewall. The wire broke where it was jammed between those bits, almost like you aren't supposed to make sharp bends in wire against sharp metal things.

    ended up swapping the whole servo with a donor unit from a Tbird that wasn't all screwed up.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

Page 44 of 45 FirstFirst ... 3442434445 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net