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Thread: kishy's 1985 Country Squire

  1. #401
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Looks like you found the rear ventilation fix wagon owners have been looking for.

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  2. #402
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...That's the thing...I was turning the socket by hand and it stripped out. I couldn't have been gentler if I tried. So that will be difficult to fix correctly; bolt diameter is limited by the pump and proximity to water passages (can't drill the hole bigger, it's a leak risk). A new thread insert would be the way to go. If I have sealing issues I will pursue that. Got too much into it in RTV to waste by pulling it apart again now, best to run it and see what happens I think...
    Ah. Wouldn't a helicoil thingy kinda fix that? (That's probably what you meant by "thread insert.") Something I'm too inadept, lazy and ignorant to be bothered with.
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  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    Looks like you found the rear ventilation fix wagon owners have been looking for.
    I'm sure it would help a great deal, actually...and if it weren't for the fact that I need both a concealed trunk and want the rear seats usable, I might have tried to find a way to keep it open lol.

    The argument can easily be made that the interior is not open to the outside if the rear cargo floor is closed, but again, trunk value. So the new trunk pan will go in.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Ah. Wouldn't a helicoil thingy kinda fix that? (That's probably what you meant by "thread insert.") Something I'm too inadept, lazy and ignorant to be bothered with.
    That is correct, yes. Kleenex vs facial tissue. Helicoil is a brand name; I would almost certainly not be using a brand name insert.

    The benefit of doing it that way is the original fastener size is retained. Drill the hole out bigger, put the insert in, and now the original fastener can be threaded in. In this case, that's necessary because the hole through the water pump can't be made bigger.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  4. #404
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    How to you plan to patch on the floor? Butt welding is a good option if you can get things lined up with the patch. I’ve had good luck in a similar situation by laying the new panel over the current remaining floor, temp attachment with screws, cut both layers along one edge, tack weld the new perfectly matched edge, and continue to another edge.

    I’ve also did a flange type thing with a special pliers and weld. Which was easy, and with seam sealer made a decent repair. There really isn’t a way for moisture to get in there if you seal both sides. I prefer butt welding though.
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  5. #405

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    I was in the same situation as yours. Luckily I found a wagon in the junk yard with a good pan.

    If it gets water in there the carpet will hold it in and rust it out.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    How to you plan to patch on the floor? Butt welding is a good option if you can get things lined up with the patch. I’ve had good luck in a similar situation by laying the new panel over the current remaining floor, temp attachment with screws, cut both layers along one edge, tack weld the new perfectly matched edge, and continue to another edge.

    I’ve also did a flange type thing with a special pliers and weld. Which was easy, and with seam sealer made a decent repair. There really isn’t a way for moisture to get in there if you seal both sides. I prefer butt welding though.
    Ah, yes. The question I keep asking myself.

    I would like to weld it, but I never have welded. I bought a flux-core welder specifically for this project and figure it'll be a learning experience.

    But, it will take a fair bit of accurate alignment of the new pan for that to work well. The hard part is probably going to be "templating" the junkyard cut-out so it will align with my cuts in the car.

    In retrospect I wish I had cut out two strips of the bad metal and left the middle section. But no going back now. I didn't realize how solid the rest of that metal was until the grinder was already through it.

    The only reason accuracy counts here is that the fuel tank strap mounts are on it.

    I could probably overlap the new pan "outside" (below) the trunk area and run screws through it, and seam seal it. It'd be ugly as sin but I strongly suspect it would do the job.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  7. #407
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I have tubes of automotive grade seam sealer and adhesive...
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  8. #408
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Cut more out of the junkyard car than you think you will need. Its much easier to trim it at your place than to try and grow the metal that isn't there anymore.

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  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveh66 View Post
    I was in the same situation as yours. Luckily I found a wagon in the junk yard with a good pan.

    If it gets water in there the carpet will hold it in and rust it out.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well done, re: cutting that section out.

    I'm reasonably sure from the condition of the tailgate window seal that this rust might have been accelerated by water in the interior side, not from below.

    Oddly, the rust is mostly in places where the insulation and carpet didn't touch the metal.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    I have tubes of automotive grade seam sealer and adhesive...
    Yes, but I still owe you money, so don't offer me things until that's sorted lol. I may take you up on that once I settle on a plan of attack. If it gets welded, no sealing will be needed, probably.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Cut more out of the junkyard car than you think you will need. Its much easier to trim it at your place than to try and grow the metal that isn't there anymore.
    Yes, I did in my case, which is good.



    It isn't rust-free, but it's intact so it can be cleaned up and made decent. Not like the car it's going on is spotless of course.

    I realized that I don't need to do the spare tire well in the quarter panel, although I also cut out a junkyard section for that too. I can just fiberglass body fill over the pinholed bottom of it, which will fix its structural value, and the deep almost-through rust at the corner of the wheel arch doesn't go into the interior, it's still outside of the body. So I'm probably leaving that alone entirely and soaking it in oil to slow its spread. It's not an angle I've photographed, surprisingly, but you can see it here:


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  10. #410
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    I'd just overlap by about a quarter inch and go to town, but then I have no illusions of doing any proper welding. I'd just make it stay put and seam seal the crap out of it after grinding all my weld boogers off.

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  11. #411
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Wow, for some reason I also thought your wagon was blue..

    Noted, although the company I work for makes the crap and I can pretty much get it for free, as were the samples I've got on hand. I was planning on doing something similar to our GM trucks as both needs rocker panels & cab corners.
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  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    I'd just overlap by about a quarter inch and go to town, but then I have no illusions of doing any proper welding. I'd just make it stay put and seam seal the crap out of it after grinding all my weld boogers off.
    That approach would make it a lot easier...wouldn't have to get the cuts to line up nicely, just overlap a bit. Access to the rear side from below is pretty bad because of the trailer hitch so that needs to come off before I could weld it, I'm thinking. Can't get anything in there to clean the metal up, as it is (paint, rust).

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Wow, for some reason I also thought your wagon was blue..

    Noted, although the company I work for makes the crap and I can pretty much get it for free, as were the samples I've got on hand. I was planning on doing something similar to our GM trucks as both needs rocker panels & cab corners.
    Oh, it is blue, it just depends on how the light hits it...


    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  13. #413
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    Finally unboxed the welder, after it sat for probably about a year. Confidence is rising. Will play with some scrap first of course.

    Got the trailer hitch off. I cut up the fasteners with a cut-off wheel until they just fell apart. Hitch is usable if ugly, but the whole reason I want a hitch is for 2" receiver accessories, so...it will probably become scrap.

    Somewhat cleaned up the junkyard trunk pan with a wire wheel on a grinder. It's in worse shape than I thought it was, but it's much more usable than what I cut out. Still wishing I had cut a different pattern in removing the bad one. It'd be an easier fix if I could just lay the repair panels on the inside of the existing panel but what's done is done. I will likely use fiberglass body filler to patch it.

    I don't know if I'm going back to it tonight. There's enough time but it's hot out and I can always pick it up again tomorrow.





    The bad section cut-out:



    The new section post-wire-wheel:


    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  14. #414
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    I am a complete amateur but have had good success with the harbor freight welder we have at work. I did some sheet metal patches and once you get the hang of it the results are good. You will do fine after some practice.
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  15. #415
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    Well...I attached two scraps together, and I can't break them apart. The problem, of course, is that I seem to have "soldered" them together using the welding wire rather than truly made them "become one". But hell, even this quality job would be sufficient, most likely.

    (there was another piece attached on top, hence why there seems to be more chunky weld stuff than necessary)



    I did end up going back at it later in the day after my last update.

    I'm really liking the Harbor Freight Warrior cut-off discs. They actually reduce in diameter as they wear rather than blowing off chunks and becoming rather dangerous (cough cough Bosch).



    Got the trunk pan more or less lined up. I cut accurately to a couple key reference points (as they relate to tank straps and seatbelt bolts, things that need to be relatively lined up and provide good alignment references) then just winged the rest. It's hideous but it fits, and as best I can tell, the tank fitment against it is correct and strap length isn't affected by the mounts being slightly offset from their usual home.





    Still need to clean up the metal a bit better and maybe slightly tweak the fitment, but things are looking promising. The 'new' pan is installed outside of the remainder of the old one. I tried with it inside, but it looked like it was going to make the straps too short. As we know, it's already difficult to get the straps on these when all fits correctly, nevermind when you kick the mounts back 1/8".

    On the 14th, primed and painted the new tank straps. They were plain steel and certain to become an ugly rusty mess in short order. I did the same with the retaining dowels which I wire wheeled to knock the rust off first.



    I also thoroughly wire wheeled the fuel filler neck, primed it, sealed the primer, and coated it in asphalt undercoating, except for the end that goes into the tank and for the mating surfaces of the fuel cap.



    Today, finished the intake manifold gasket job. Kinda said "F it" and used a flap disc on the 7000rpm angle grinder. Made a world of difference on the mating surfaces. I'm very confident I didn't dig out any of the metal making the surface uneven, as well. Gaskets were a cheap set with cork end pieces, so black RTV was used a fair bit. We'll see how long it lasts.





    Decided to hit the water pump with brake cleaner, then prime it, then paint it. It will be imperfect as it's on the vehicle, but it will be better than nothing, probably.



    There's a car show on the weekend benefiting the Canadian Mental Health Association. It is my very unrealistic hope that this car will be able to attend. I need the coolant fitting for the intake manifold and I just don't see that happening before then. Technically I could reuse the one it had and clamp the hose further down, as the previous owner did, but it requires the distributor to be removed to change it later, so it makes more work down the road.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

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