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Thread: kishy's 1985 Country Squire

  1. #341
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    I thought you were going to end it with I forgot to put the fitting on.
    LMAO!!

    Dammit I've done this so many times or when I go the lazy route and buy pre flared line I sometimes forget to make sure the fittings are at the ends before I start bending... Luckily it's been about 15 years since I've made those mistakes.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  2. #342
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    hm, lets see, last time I had to bend a brake line for myself was about 2 years ago, so its been 2 years since I made that mistake.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #343
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    I misspoke. The green brake line is not PVC-coated, it's something else that I don't entirely understand. Regardless...yeah.

    I double flared the line (and yes, I forgot to put the flare nut on this time...) and used an SAE union, joining it to another piece of line up to the master cylinder. The booster and master are just mocked up in position right now so I could get the lines right.

    I used junkyard-harvested metric flare nuts for the master and connections to the flex lines. I bent up a nice looking driver side line and now the front lines are done, assuming no leaks appear when it's time to put fluid in it. The front to rear line still needs to be done, as do the lines on the axle. I'll probably focus on engine stuff before I move to the back of the car. Timing set, water pump, valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, radiator. The new hood can go on after that. It will probably keep the 4-eye header panel until it's on the road and then swap to the 2-eye header panel at a later time. Just prioritizing things.













    Exact applications are escaping me but this master is the same as what came on my '91 new. All valving is contained to the master, nothing on the frame rail. Both fronts connect to the master with bubble flare metric flare nuts (yes, on my 91 it was that way as-new). The rear drums go through one of those inline valve things threaded into the rear port of the master.
    Last edited by kishy; 06-10-2019 at 11:07 PM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  4. #344
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The frame-mounted combo valve went away by about 1990. Seems hit or miss in 89.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #345
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    The frame-mounted combo valve went away by about 1990. Seems hit or miss in 89.
    I seem to recall that I have seen 88s have the combo valve, and 89s have a different valve/splitter that does less and is half the size (the master on those looks like this one, however has only one front outlet instead of two). Then 90-91 fully adopted a more modern-looking deal.

    Ultimately I suppose it doesn't matter: most people will repair what they have to functional equivalency of what it was when they started. I just resent those frame-mounted valves in a variety of ways and couldn't wait to get it the hell out of there.

    I'm not sure how dual-system separation works with the newer master. I kind of suspect that functionality is basically lost (one or two pumps still work after loss of fluid, beyond that, into the wall you go). As my Ranger proved, it didn't exactly help that much, since the shuttle valve didn't seem to properly seal it off and I lost my fluid anyway. When all is in perfect working order and brand new, I'm sure results are more favourable.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  6. #346
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    The green coating or whatever is some sort of polymer, least that's what the label said on the brake line I recently bought for Ashley's truck. I too like to use the word "harvested" when liberating parts from scrap yards. "Recycled" is another good one when around hipsters and greenies.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  7. #347
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    I figured out the exhaust leak, but not why it changes over time: the smog tubes are present on the heads, however they are corroded off after a couple inches on each side and just breath freely. I will probably do that trick where you take them off, grind the tubes off the nub things, then put the nubs back on reversed so they block the holes. That should solve that problem without needing to deal with the BS that goes along with using the plugs (likely need to run a tap into the holes re: chunks of carbon). I had forgotten that the TAD/TAB doohickey is entirely absent on this car, though the control solenoids thankfully remain (if they are removed, it will set a code)

    Got eyes on the AC evaporator through the blower motor hole. Not completely clogged up with dirt, so that's good. Blasted what I could out with air and that'll have to do.

    Blower motor likely needs to be swapped, it makes noises. Bought two closeouts from RockAuto, that should solve that.

    Removed the AC lines and drier. Will re-add AC later, for now I'll benefit from the working room in the engine bay.

    Orifice tube did not want to come out at all. Eventually I used a screw driver to hammer the metal tube through the rest of it, then drove a wood screw into the body of the orifice tube, and when that couldn't make it budge, I took a propane torch to it. Can't be tight if it's a liquid, right?

    Tie rods are installed. New idler arm is installed. Pitman arm seems tight so that's good. Steering box leaks, but they all do, so that's whatever I guess. Greased the front end; ran out of grease just as I finished up with the final grease fitting. Will need to buy more of that.

    The $20Cdn RockAuto closeout Kelsey-Hayes fully loaded brake calipers will be quite nice...they have an anti-corrosion coating on them. Too bad I'm going to hide them behind steelies.

















    Garage roof might have a leak. Either that or a resident animal in the attic peed at a strategic time while it was raining. I'm more inclined to suspect it's just rain, but it was very weird that the dribble from above suddenly began and then suddenly ended. Can't really do anything about it either way until this car is out so whatever.

    I'm going to need some sort of spiked car cover for the '91. Little raccoon hand-prints all over it. They're my favourite animals, but I want them off of my cars.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  8. #348
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    I caught a cat in action a couple times on top of mine...Its covered BUT STILL STAY OFF.

    I should really do inners and outers on my front end. I just dread setting up the toe/making the steering wheel centered.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  9. #349
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Racoons look cool, that's about it. Unfortunately for us humans, they're also very clever.

    Those calipers do look nice, especially with their fancy zinc coating. Last time I looked into calipers that had said coating, I think they were $60/piece or more.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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