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    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    New mirror takes away from the character of the car, but no flappy-flap is nice. Good job on the strip-out extraction. I've been fortunate that I've never stripped out or snapped anything of my own. If I did, jeez, I don't think I'd have the aptitude to try and get it out. Reminds me, I need a thread chaser thingy and some taps & dies. (Been saying that for years..)
    I think I like the brightwork to be bright, even with the rest of the car being rather not bright. Maybe. I dunno.

    The old mirror may be repairable. One of the 3 cables used to position it is disconnected at the glass end. I am not sure what that mechanism looks like inside but may decide to study it closer.

    The screw that broke off was remarkably seized in there. The tool that stripped it originally was my Milwaukee M12 impact driver with a pretty fresh bit. The screw head just turned to dust immediately. The threads ended up looking reasonable, but I ran a tap into them anyway to try to prevent future stupidity and also used anti-seize on the screws. They're an M5 thread. Between that and the countersunk head, maybe not the easiest fastener to get your hands on.

    A tap and die set is something you hopefully don't need often, but saves your day when you do need it. Extractors of various designs are similarly useful.

    Current driver: Ranger
    Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
    | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
    | Junkyards

    Comment


      the mirror fastening method on the Lincoln is one of the things I think is just a better design. Stud in the mirror, nut on the inside of the door. Never had one that wouldn't let go, but the Ford ones strip out all the time. Phillips are just a garbage fastener.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        New Ford mirror screws are hard to find. Part number is : N800349S. I have a couple of nos in stock just in case.
        This the the only tool I used to remove the screws after soaking the area with PB blaster. Works well.Click image for larger version

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        Comment


          Originally posted by kishy View Post
          I think I like the brightwork to be bright, even with the rest of the car being rather not bright. Maybe. I dunno...

          ..The screw that broke off was remarkably seized in there. The tool that stripped it originally was my Milwaukee M12 impact driver with a pretty fresh bit. The screw head just turned to dust immediately. The threads ended up looking reasonable, but I ran a tap into them anyway to try to prevent future stupidity and also used anti-seize on the screws. They're an M5 thread. Between that and the countersunk head, maybe not the easiest fastener to get your hands on.

          A tap and die set is something you hopefully don't need often, but saves your day when you do need it. Extractors of various designs are similarly useful.
          I'm with you. Kind of like how all of my daily drivers are ratty on the outside, but clean on the inside and underhood. Everything must work. (Yet there is usually one thing that doesn't) OCD OCD OCD

          Or how about just snaps into a bajillion pieces? That's my luck with those big T45 or T50 fasteners for seat belts and such. I've had considerable luck getting fasteners to let go by beating on the them with a hammer, not 100% effective though. I've still had to walk away from enough would-be junkyard scores.

          I certainly need to get a set of those and some extractors. Then that's more chit in my kit. I already don't go to the junkyards for how much chit I gotta back up and figure out how to lug around. I don't know how I got by with what was essentially a lunchbox by comparison in the old days.

          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
          ...Phillips are just a garbage fastener.
          This, along with slotted/flat head fasteners. Just no. But then Ford went and used Phillips to secure things like the wheel lip moldings. Oh how much wonderful fun those are to remove. (Re-reading that reminded me of a song.. "..And I'm just.. itching to tell you about them. Seafood COCK-tails.. CRABS! CRayfish..")
          1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
          1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

          Comment


            Per the internet, apparently we can partially blame old Henry Blue Oval for the Phillips. https://obportland.org/the-cursed-phillips-screw/

            Ford used pozidrive on the door strikers of my 68. They are pretty nice and are much harder to strip. Basically square tipped Phillips.
            1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
            1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

            GMN Box Panther History
            Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
            Box Panther Production Numbers

            Comment


              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              the mirror fastening method on the Lincoln is one of the things I think is just a better design. Stud in the mirror, nut on the inside of the door. Never had one that wouldn't let go, but the Ford ones strip out all the time. Phillips are just a garbage fastener.
              Yep, stripped the ones on my Crown Vic when I was doing the dew wipes and ended up replacing them with philips stainless steel hex head screws. That way if the philips stripped out, I could still easily attach a socket to it, or just skip the whole screwdriver step. When I went to replace the dew wipes with the ones from my Crown Vic on my Grand Marquis, the bolts came right out with a socket. The ones on the GM stripped out and that project moved on to the "TODO" list of another day.

              Originally posted by Mainemantom View Post
              New Ford mirror screws are hard to find. Part number is : N800349S. I have a couple of nos in stock just in case.
              This the the only tool I used to remove the screws after soaking the area with PB blaster. Works well.[ATTACH=CONFIG]58381[/ATTACH]
              That ratcheting screwdriver is awesome. I have the same exact one. I think I bought it at Harbor Freight? Works great and I've used it way more than I ever thought I would have.

              '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

              Comment


                Have had great luck using my Phillips bit with a 1/4" drive ratcheting wrench. But yeah, if the bits weren't rounded at the edges they wouldn't cam out so much and strip. Hate 'em.
                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

                Comment


                  Dug into some sound system topics over the last little while.

                  I do not really dislike the stock premium-but-not-JBL sound system; it is acceptable. What is not acceptable is lack of options for getting sound into it from external sources, and also the scratchy pots issue. Gadget has previously explained how we can do an aux-in mod which piggybacks on the cassette player wiring within the radio: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...n-stock-stereo

                  One of these days I'm going to put together that solution and put the first matter to bed, but in the meantime I've tested out a couple other more off-the-shelf options: FM modulator (a "wired FM transmitter" basically), and also combining that with a Bluetooth receiver.

                  I built a little test harness to plug in this mess to the lighter socket and tried it out.





                  Impressions...the quality is excellent through the FM modulator. It really sounds clear and I like the potential tidiness of the install if all this is hardwired and tucked nicely in the dash.
                  Using the Bluetooth receiver into the FM modulator is also very clear.
                  The main drawback I identified is that the FM modulator is auto-switching, which means it waits for some input before it takes over the frequency it uses. Both frequencies it can support are in use nearby, and the volume level difference between those channels and the audio from the FM modulator is substantial, so you need to be ready on the volume knob after the 10 second power down timeout when your aux in audio stops. If it was manually switched or active whenever it's powered, it would be better. There might be a way to modify it to achieve that.

                  Some parts are in the mail to try building an aux-in jack as Gadget demonstrated.


                  After messing with that, I decided to try to tackle the scratchy pots issue (e.g. crackling volume knob, loss of speaker channels at various knob positions, etc)
                  Took lid off radio, sprayed contact cleaner into the pots, and worked them back and forth a bunch.
                  Results are promising.


                  The cruise control has been acting kinda broken. Set it at 100, it'll coast down to maybe 95 then accelerate rapidly up to 110ish (and do so dramatically enough to cause kickdown), then fall back below the set speed again. Basically it's treating the throttle like an on/off switch and that's not so great.

                  I figured the problem would either be erratic speed input (bad VSS) or the potentiometer inside the cruise servo is getting scratchy. I pulled the cruise servo from the 83 Town Car I cut the quarter panel out of recently in the junkyard, and installed it today. Problem solved. Bonus trivia: if you connect the vacuum lines backwards, it gives manifold vacuum to the servo's diaphragm directly. Things get briefly exciting if you make this error.

                  I also replaced the driver wiper pivot and corresponding bushing in pursuit of the same problems I recently fixed on the Lincoln (over-traveling wipers). This one has slop somewhere else that I can't pinpoint without taking it apart more, but things are working betterish now at least.

                  I've been having issues with the TV rod getting stuck at the full TV position, which has an effect I'd describe kind of like getting stuck in second gear, but with no engine braking. This has happened before and is always the fault of schmoo gumming up the throttle shaft. I cleaned it all and re-lubricated it and it seems better now.

                  Need to chase a near-WOT lack of power. Vacuum problem or TPS or something. Maybe the MAP loses accuracy in lower vacuum conditions. Basically it pulls hard with maybe half throttle, but falls on its face if it's given more pedal. No missing though, which is weird since more air but not a correct amount of fuel to match should cause misfiring, I'd expect.
                  Last edited by kishy; 09-11-2022, 03:51 PM.

                  Current driver: Ranger
                  Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                  | 88 TC | 91 GM
                  Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                  Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                  | Junkyards

                  Comment


                    Did she go WOT once car was turned on with vacuum lines backwards to the servo?

                    Following what you come up with ultimately for the bluetooth mod. I like the idea of things hidden so everything appears as stock.

                    I settled (or compromised) on doing this: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post848607

                    with something very very similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-...s%2C419&sr=8-3

                    And I LOVE IT. SO damn easy to connect. work fantastic and was very affordable. It is the lazy man option!
                    ~David~

                    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                    Originally posted by ootdega
                    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                    Comment


                      The other thing I've found to cause severe hunting of the cruise speed is a vac leak on the dump valve. Had the bad pot thing on the Conti, though it was actually broken wiring to it rather than the pot in my case. Fox CC units unplug only at the control unit under the dash, the servo has about 20" of wire attached to it and a large oval grommet right in the middle of it all. Somehow, a previous clown managed to get the wiring out of the grommet, then re-installed the grommet and ran the wire between the grommet and the metal firewall. The wire broke where it was jammed between those bits, almost like you aren't supposed to make sharp bends in wire against sharp metal things.

                      ended up swapping the whole servo with a donor unit from a Tbird that wasn't all screwed up.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                        The other thing I've found to cause severe hunting of the cruise speed is a vac leak on the dump valve. Had the bad pot thing on the Conti, though it was actually broken wiring to it rather than the pot in my case. Fox CC units unplug only at the control unit under the dash, the servo has about 20" of wire attached to it and a large oval grommet right in the middle of it all. Somehow, a previous clown managed to get the wiring out of the grommet, then re-installed the grommet and ran the wire between the grommet and the metal firewall. The wire broke where it was jammed between those bits, almost like you aren't supposed to make sharp bends in wire against sharp metal things.

                        ended up swapping the whole servo with a donor unit from a Tbird that wasn't all screwed up.
                        Where is the dump valve located? I know it may be different by model or is it standard? Are we talking about ny the brake switch by the brake pedal?
                        What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                        What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

                        Comment


                          its up above the brake pedal, serves as the backup method to shut off the cruise if something in the electrical circuit of the brake lights quits working. I think they quit doing it by the early 90s but boxes all had it. Fox cars of the era too. It connects to the Y fitting that connects the servo side of the diaphragm to the control side, if that gets opened it forces the servo to release. If it leaks the servo slowly releases and keeps getting re-applied.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            Many thanks! Will have to look into it for my friend's '88 CV as he has had that cruise control problem for many years. Wonder what the part number would be - I need to research that one!
                            What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                            What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
                              Did she go WOT once car was turned on with vacuum lines backwards to the servo?

                              Following what you come up with ultimately for the bluetooth mod. I like the idea of things hidden so everything appears as stock.

                              I settled (or compromised) on doing this: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post848607

                              with something very very similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-...s%2C419&sr=8-3

                              And I LOVE IT. SO damn easy to connect. work fantastic and was very affordable. It is the lazy man option!
                              WOT, indeed. I flipped the key off real quick, but it still sounded like it got pretty high up there.

                              In case I was not clear, this FM solution intercepts the antenna cable, and outputs the FM frequency directly onto the cable. In theory this should dramatically cut down on the opportunities for the FM transmitter to suck, but I'm not sure that they really ever do, since all the ones I've messed with work fine. I'm just looking for an option that's friendly to being concealed inside the dash and hardwired so I don't have to look at it or have a pile of accessories sitting on the trans tunnel. Your install is really slick. Putting an additional power point (perhaps just something that natively will support some high-amp USB type C charging) would be a useful mod for me, for sure.

                              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                              The other thing I've found to cause severe hunting of the cruise speed is a vac leak on the dump valve. Had the bad pot thing on the Conti, though it was actually broken wiring to it rather than the pot in my case. Fox CC units unplug only at the control unit under the dash, the servo has about 20" of wire attached to it and a large oval grommet right in the middle of it all. Somehow, a previous clown managed to get the wiring out of the grommet, then re-installed the grommet and ran the wire between the grommet and the metal firewall. The wire broke where it was jammed between those bits, almost like you aren't supposed to make sharp bends in wire against sharp metal things.

                              ended up swapping the whole servo with a donor unit from a Tbird that wasn't all screwed up.
                              I had considered a vacuum leak but the throttle action was way too definitive and switchy. Very on/off, nothing gradual about it. Could feel it yank the pedal out from under my foot then give it back to me. I figured that had to be on the controls side of things. Either bad data making it think that's the right thing to do, or the right data with a worn component.

                              I'm surprised the Fox part isn't the same. Presumably electrically compatible, just with a weird hardwired pigtail thing.

                              It occurs to me that my problem could have been contact at the connector going into the servo and the act of unplugging/replugging corrected it, but either way, I touched things and now it works, so I touched the right thing at some point in the process.

                              Referring back to an earlier issue in this thread, I also harvested the cruise amplifier connectors from the junkyard '83 TC, because they were both the shiny gray plastic rather than the chalky brittle beige stuff, as well as the amplifier itself. Opening that up, it's a remarkably simple device. Super friendly to DIY refurbishing if a cap pops or something burns, as long as it's not the IC.

                              Current driver: Ranger
                              Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                              | 88 TC | 91 GM
                              Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                              Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                              | Junkyards

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by kishy View Post
                                In case I was not clear, this FM solution intercepts the antenna cable, and outputs the FM frequency directly onto the cable. In theory this should dramatically cut down on the opportunities for the FM transmitter to suck, but I'm not sure that they really ever do, since all the ones I've messed with work fine.
                                Oops I missed that detail the first go around. Nice!
                                ~David~

                                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                                Originally posted by ootdega
                                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                                Comment

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