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Thread: kishy's 1985 Country Squire

  1. #221
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Yeah, leave the dash pad off is possible. If you're like me it'll take days before you get it right & to your liking. One thing I haven't figured out is if the auto off delay also plays into the auto on part of it. If it does, that's certainly something to keep in mind when adjusting it..
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  2. #222
    formerly blkpnthr
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    The thing is actually marked on the side that a certain amount of that adjustment, I think 1/8 turn, extends the timer by 15 minutes (!!!)

    Never got around to leak-testing the windshield, which is pretty sad on my part since it's been a virtual monsoon outside since Friday night and it would have been quite easy to do. Soon™.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  3. #223
    formerly blkpnthr
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    Annnnnnd the windshield leaks.
    The bottom edge that I thought for sure would be an issue, is not. The top is fine all along, as is the passenger A-pillar. The driver A-pillar has a pinhole leak...it only seeps through, even with high water pressure directed right at it...right at the point where the pinch weld changes height (where the wagon roof is grafted onto the A-pillars with aforementioned terrible body work).

    Since the urethane layer is quite thin, I'm very confident I would damage the windshield getting it back out again. I'm thinking my best option is to apply more urethane to try to plug up wherever the water is entering (it isn't visibly obvious). If it fails, the glass has to come out anyway...but I'd rather avoid that. Thoughts?

    I have since become aware that these cars used butyl tape from the factory, hence the difference in depth in the channel. I didn't know how to recognize one vs the other before, but I'm now pretty confident what I cut through on the junkyard car was the butyl stuff.

    Also: I discovered that water is pooling in the blower motor cavity due to entering around/under the intake grate. I'm not sure how that's supposed to drain but am hoping I can rectify it without basically re-doing the heater core job. The drain from the inside was cleared out when I had it apart, so the issue is in the outside half of the system.
    Last edited by kishy; 04-19-2018 at 06:38 PM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  4. #224
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
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    Butyl usually is harder, the outer skinned layer is usually very tough to hardened, if you dig out a piece and roll it in your fingers, it'll leave behind black tarry like stains. As it ages, it can lose sticktion and you can get a window out with minimal effort. Urethane is by far superior and will hold long after butyl has harnded and lost its bond. Also less leaks. than butyl.

  5. #225
    formerly blkpnthr
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    Quote Originally Posted by GM_Guy View Post
    Butyl usually is harder, the outer skinned layer is usually very tough to hardened, if you dig out a piece and roll it in your fingers, it'll leave behind black tarry like stains. As it ages, it can lose sticktion and you can get a window out with minimal effort. Urethane is by far superior and will hold long after butyl has harnded and lost its bond. Also less leaks. than butyl.
    Yep, the stuff on the replacement windshield was like that. Plus it had a string embedded in it around the whole thing which I think is characteristic of that product also. It left wonderful stains in the Lincoln which I used to transport it, and my hands were very black and sticky. It was not hard to cut through, though.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  6. #226
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    +1 just RTV the thing. I'd use the window sealer and just coat that corner. Let it cure good and then put the trim back on.

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  7. #227
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The blower motor cavity has a hole at the very bottom for the drain. Thats where the AC evaporator drains too. probably just clogged up with dirt. Might also be worth making an RTV gasket for that air intake thing. Its supposed to be raised a bit, but if there is a gap between the raised part and the cowl, the water runs right in.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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  8. #228
    formerly blkpnthr
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    Whoever the next sucker is that has to remove this windshield is going to hate me a lot. Leak should be rectified, to be verified once it dries. Protip: don't get windshield urethane on your skin.

    Got eyes down in the blower motor intake. More of that "lake silt" I've mentioned. It's like gooey sand. The drain does drain, but not with any urgency. More to do here still.

    Pulled the blower motor itself out, found the hamster wheel is in good condition and not terribly gross.

    Plan is to pop the wagon outside tomorrow to get the Lincoln in to begin the exhaust project. Conflicted on which end to get under the protection of the carport: the tailgate window leaks, and the hood is missing, so it's not exactly ideal for either end to be outright rained on. Don't want to reinstall hood until everything at the front end of the car is more or less operational. Also not sure where I put the hardware for it. Oops.

    Still need to get the mouse corpses out. Not sure why that's so hard to remember when I'm near the car.

    Found what I believe is the EEC flyback diode to protect it from the starter relay. One of the wires is snipped. Cool. This harness is a catastrophe, with all sorts of insulation missing all over the place, so I guess it's a good thing I hoard CFI harnesses.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

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