nkb heads

[dan]

If you don't recommend those heads, any other budget heads you would recommend? Wife said no to buying heads until next month so I still have time lol

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[Brown_Muscle]

How much performance are you looking for...generally anything under a grand is a "deal" because they arent very well made/assembled. AFR and Trickflow are two well known, high quality head manufacturers. This is from 2013, but still valid, if it helps: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-...ads-that-work/

[dan]

Looking for 300-350 hp until I can build a 331 or a stroked out 351.

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[Tiggie]

I wanna see a dyno test of of the low rpm/part throttle differences. I spend 99.99% of my time at idle-3500. I like stock cam smoothness. Could it be at 1800rpm and 50% throttle that my E6 heads aren't as bad as we've been lead to believe?

[dan]

That's actually a great idea^^ mine is mostly spent between 2000-3500 rpms on 3rd gear since I don't like using O/D

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[gadget73]

Scorpions is what this will run as well, fuck $340 die-cast Cranes when $60 less gets brandy new milled Scorpions Race series with lifetime warranty and all that.

So you're thinking the shit should just work fine with the P-heads and HO cam and factory pushrods? Well that will certainly make life significantly easier

it wasn't the aluminum that wore out on mine. The steel pivot shaft was worn from the needle bearings. Looked like they were not hard enough to function as a bearing race. The needles also had some damage and the finish in the un-worn area of the cross shaft wasn't great either, so possibly a mix of problems. Looked like a worn out U joint honestly. Either way it failed in a way I would not have expected it to.


It might work with stock stuff, it might not. When I said "stock motor", I meant specifically a motor exactly as it left the factory with all original parts. Outside of that, who the hell knows.

I needed longer, and probably needed longer when I was running a factory cam. The stupid thing is how Comp measures the pushrods. Their measurement is from the center of the spherical end, which is not something you can directly measure. You'd have to work out the radius of the sphere and take that much off your measurement. Factory ones you can measure with a caliper, they are what you think they are. Its much harder to actually come up with the Comp number if you don't have one of their pushrods in hand to work out the measurements. Buy their tool, it will tell you what size to get. I made my own from an old pushrod that I cut in half and drilled/tapped for 1/4-20 threaded rod and ordered what it measured. The actual parts measure longer than my test tool did. It worked out, but it required shimming and more time with the dial indicator to get it all right than I'd have liked.

[phayzer5]

Out of pure curiosity, and with no idea what they cost brandy new, what are you thinking of as far as price?

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[knucklehead0202]

Yeah even the basic edelbrock performer 5.0 heads I snagged had a crane "stud conversion kit" on them, which made all that shit so much easier. That said, they were on the old car for almost exactly 100 miles before it got wrecked by some scumbag and I never even got to drive it on the freeway. Made a massive difference in how the beast ran but again, no tangible numbers because the computer hadn't even got dialed it before the end came. Still pissed but i'm not dwelling on the past. These heads I figure are still too small for a 351 but are MILES ahead of even Ford X heads, so they'd be a better choice than just about any shitty gt40's. RHS are awesome heads and I actually traded a set of 200cc aluminums straight across for the Eddy's I have now. I got a killer deal on the RHS so I didn't really lose on the deal, especially because at the time I was concerned about CA smog crap and the Edelbrock heads had an E.O. number. RHS heads, even aluminum ones are well-regarded by engine builders because of their high-quality and deck thickness vs. others like edelbrock because they resist stress/flex under high boost/nitrous and retain head gaskets better. That said, not many of us are going to boost the shit out of our stuff or toss a crapton of N20 at them. But if you wanted to...

[dan]

So , is it better that i build it little by little or just save up and buy a crate 302 with about 390 hp from summit and be done with it?

[sly]

The former for the experience. The latter for the warranty (but that usually requires professional installation - do read the fine print).

[gadget73]

Not all crate motors are created equal, so if you go that route choose your builder very wisely. I have no idea who makes a good one, but if you find the right person, expect it to not be cheap.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Not all crate motors are created equal, so if you go that route choose your builder very wisely. I have no idea who makes a good one, but if you find the right person, expect it to not be cheap.

^^^ This! ^^^

As evidenced by the last two cars on here that got crate short-blocks. What bullshit!

[gadget73]

indeed. I think if I do another motor, it will be handled by the local machine shop and maybe I'll assemble it. At least I can yell at whoever screwed up at that point, even if it is myself.

[dan]

I suppose I'll just buy everything little by little. Good point on being able to know who the builder is

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