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Thread: Rear disc conversion question

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    Member Elias's Avatar
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    Default Rear disc conversion question

    I have a few questions I have a 88 MGM with stock 2.73 open diff. i have a posi that I was gonna rebuild and put in my stock axle but after reading about a few members upgraded to rear disc now I'm think of doing the same. I tried to look for the tread but can't find it i know its here. 1 What years make and model axle would I need. 2 also what parts do I need to get. 3 I also found a rear swaybar that bolt to my lower rear arms (I believe it's the thin one, I think it came of a 89 cv not the bigger one) will it still work or would the donor cars swaybar be better. 4 would I need a different drive shaft if so what year and 5 would the control arm be the same or are they better thank in advance
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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  3. #3
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    That swaybar will work for you, as long as your lower arms are drilled. If they're not drilled, just make the holes yourself. Rear swaybar from the car that's donating your rear discs will not work easily, it's doable certainly, but it ain't gonna happen without that magical device that can take make two separate metal pieces into one Stick with the bar you have in that picture, it fits properly.

    Driveshaft, there's no need to mess with it at all. Leave it be, unless the U-joints are getting funky, in which case replace them and reinstall shaft after axle rebuild is done.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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    It is not required that you replace the axles if they are in good condition.

    It is often nice to get another axle housing with control arms, do a complete rebuild on the new assembly and then swap in the whole assembly. If you have the space to work this is a convenient way to go. 90-95? (am I right in the year range here guys?) housings are just slightly wider which is a small plus and are a direct bolt in. The 92 & up could be equipped with disks. This procedure has the advantage of less vehicle downtime and it is also a convenient time to replace the control arm bushings.
    "X" car 89 Colony Park LS Mods>Engine delete, SS duals magnaflow hflow cats, 2010 Must GT mufflers, auto air shocks, Posi, Tran cooler, big front brakes, 03+ rear disks, Large 3g alt, Tripminder, GS grill, 86 seats, 16" HPP wheels, winter boots=96 Cartier wheels, 215-65/16 Goodyear ULTRA GW3 snows, pi rear sway, alum driveshaft.
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    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    90-97 is the direct swap range with the wider axle assembly. 98+ mounts differently.

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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    90-97 is the direct swap range with the wider axle assembly. 98+ mounts differently.
    Also are the rear ends the same on aero Vic's

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elias View Post
    Also are the rear ends the same on aero Vic's
    All CV/GMQ/Town Car axles are the same for a given year range save for the gear ratio. They all have the same physical mounting points and disk brakes. The years that fit a box body are '92-'97, with '95-'97 having slightly larger/beefier brakes.

    Town Cars all had 3.08s for the year ranges that'll work for you. That is except for the Town Car Signature Touring from '95-'97 which would have 3.27s.

    CV/GMQ had 3.08s until '94. Starting in '95 with the switch to the 4R70W transmission, they received 2.73s as standard. This is excepting the cars with the factory Handling/Performance Package which like the Signature Touring would have had 3.27s. Also the Aero P71 package which also had 3.27 as standard with the option of 3.55 most years.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  8. #8

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    My car, a 91 CV, came with a 2:73 open rear end. I picked up a low miles, complete rear end, not a PI from a 92 with a 3 L 55 rear end and of course the disc brakes came with it.
    swapped that into my 91 and reused my 91 CVPI sway.
    Basically a bolt in job!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elias View Post
    Also are the rear ends the same on aero Vic's
    Thanks for the help I'm still undecided of which gears to go but at least now i knows which ones to look for. Ima go for 3.27 most likely or 3.55

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    If its a stock LoPo, 3.55s are a bit much for them. I've been in a few boxes with 3.55s and the engine is just out of its power band too quickly. 3.27 would probably be about perfect, its not going to lug the engine like 2.73s but it'll keep the RPMs closer to where a stock LoPo makes "power". Unless they are modified, 5.0s just don't like to rev, they fall flat on their face past 4k RPM. That all changes when you start tweaking the heads/cam/exhaust of course, they can be pretty lively and could really take advantage of a more aggressive gear.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigMerc96 View Post
    If its a stock LoPo, 3.55s are a bit much for them. I've been in a few boxes with 3.55s and the engine is just out of its power band too quickly. 3.27 would probably be about perfect, its not going to lug the engine like 2.73s but it'll keep the RPMs closer to where a stock LoPo makes "power". Unless they are modified, 5.0s just don't like to rev, they fall flat on their face past 4k RPM. That all changes when you start tweaking the heads/cam/exhaust of course, they can be pretty lively and could really take advantage of a more aggressive gear.
    Im In the process of gathering parts I already have a gt40 intake I'm getting Wednesday and maybe some gt40 heads but won't be on the car any time soon just don't want to change gears again when I upgrade its mostly a freeway driver
    Last edited by Elias; 08-26-2017 at 05:11 PM.

  12. #12
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    I'd stick with the 3.27s then, you Texans are speed demons so the 3.55s may be a bit too much when you're keeping up with traffic at 90mph.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by His Royal Ghostliness View Post
    I'd stick with the 3.27s then, you Texans are speed demons so the 3.55s may be a bit too much when you're keeping up with traffic at 90mph.
    hahaha

  14. #14
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    I was actually being serious tho - nowhere else have I witnessed a 90mph wreck between two pickups pulling trailers the size of some people's houses, them northbound lanes of whatever interstate runs out of San Antone by Austin towards Dallas must have been closed for quite a while to clean up that mess.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigMerc96 View Post
    If its a stock LoPo, 3.55s are a bit much for them. I've been in a few boxes with 3.55s and the engine is just out of its power band too quickly. 3.27 would probably be about perfect, its not going to lug the engine like 2.73s but it'll keep the RPMs closer to where a stock LoPo makes "power". Unless they are modified, 5.0s just don't like to rev, they fall flat on their face past 4k RPM. That all changes when you start tweaking the heads/cam/exhaust of course, they can be pretty lively and could really take advantage of a more aggressive gear.
    This. Not sure when Ford made the decision but sometime 86+ all Signature series and up trim level Town Cars were standard with 3.27's. Mine has 'em. Put me a Trac Loc back there when I got it and bought snow tires cause I thought I was going to drive it in the salt and winter.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    yeah... Texans like to get there in a timely manner and with such a large state... you gotta drive fast to do that.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  17. #17
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Or just plan ahead and leave more time. That works. I'll tell ya, during our trip back from Florida in February after the blow out we set the cruise to 65 and it was awesome. Car did great on gas, ride was better and I didn't have to worry about getting around people. Stress took a huge dive. As a cab driver once told me, "Never be in a hurry."
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    yeah... but making it across the state in one day is a tall order. El Paso to Texarkana is 11h35m drive in good traffic according to Google Maps. And when you factor in food/gas/restroom stops, that will probably jump to at least 12-13 hours. But there is also a thing about not being too much slower than the general traffic as you basically become a moving roadblock. Good way to get hit. Kinda wanna stay within 5-10 mpg of the general pace of traffic. Out in the middle of nowhere, that can usually be 75-80 easy.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  19. #19
    Member Elias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    yeah... but making it across the state in one day is a tall order. El Paso to Texarkana is 11h35m drive in good traffic according to Google Maps. And when you factor in food/gas/restroom stops, that will probably jump to at least 12-13 hours. But there is also a thing about not being too much slower than the general traffic as you basically become a moving roadblock. Good way to get hit. Kinda wanna stay within 5-10 mpg of the general pace of traffic. Out in the middle of nowhere, that can usually be 75-80 easy.
    Yeah on interstate 635 limit is 70 if u to slow you will piss people off I usually go 75 on highway. So I guess I'll go with 3.27 since mostly all my driving is on highway

  20. #20
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    Tis why I avoid TX interstates if at all possible. My trucks can run high speed safely no problem, the only difference between going 55mph and 90mph is the fuel consumption, and anything above 65mph drains the tanks a bit too fast for my liking. Ain't none of them speed-freaks paying me for the fuel I burn so fuck them I'm not going as fast as they want to go, their reasons for doing so be damned. And since as Sly said in the interest of safety it's best to keep up with traffic, it makes sense to simply choose roadways where traffic moves at a pace that is closer to what works best for me and my equipment. Which is 60-62 mph tops.

    3.27s should be plentiful so easy to obtain for cheap, also easier to re-calibrate the speedometer to read accurate with them.
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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