Rear disc conversion question

[sly]

yeah... Texans like to get there in a timely manner and with such a large state... you gotta drive fast to do that.

[DerekTheGreat]

Or just plan ahead and leave more time. That works. I'll tell ya, during our trip back from Florida in February after the blow out we set the cruise to 65 and it was awesome. Car did great on gas, ride was better and I didn't have to worry about getting around people. Stress took a huge dive. As a cab driver once told me, "Never be in a hurry."

[sly]

yeah... but making it across the state in one day is a tall order. El Paso to Texarkana is 11h35m drive in good traffic according to Google Maps. And when you factor in food/gas/restroom stops, that will probably jump to at least 12-13 hours. But there is also a thing about not being too much slower than the general traffic as you basically become a moving roadblock. Good way to get hit. Kinda wanna stay within 5-10 mpg of the general pace of traffic. Out in the middle of nowhere, that can usually be 75-80 easy.

[Elias]

yeah... but making it across the state in one day is a tall order. El Paso to Texarkana is 11h35m drive in good traffic according to Google Maps. And when you factor in food/gas/restroom stops, that will probably jump to at least 12-13 hours. But there is also a thing about not being too much slower than the general traffic as you basically become a moving roadblock. Good way to get hit. Kinda wanna stay within 5-10 mpg of the general pace of traffic. Out in the middle of nowhere, that can usually be 75-80 easy.

Yeah on interstate 635 limit is 70 if u to slow you will piss people off I usually go 75 on highway. So I guess I'll go with 3.27 since mostly all my driving is on highway

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Tis why I avoid TX interstates if at all possible. My trucks can run high speed safely no problem, the only difference between going 55mph and 90mph is the fuel consumption, and anything above 65mph drains the tanks a bit too fast for my liking. Ain't none of them speed-freaks paying me for the fuel I burn so fuck them I'm not going as fast as they want to go, their reasons for doing so be damned. And since as Sly said in the interest of safety it's best to keep up with traffic, it makes sense to simply choose roadways where traffic moves at a pace that is closer to what works best for me and my equipment. Which is 60-62 mph tops.

3.27s should be plentiful so easy to obtain for cheap, also easier to re-calibrate the speedometer to read accurate with them.

[Elias]

Is there any advantage of the rear being wider

[kishy]

I'll refer you to my recent thread about the same: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...Rear-Track-Why

I don't think there is a definitive clear benefit other than appearance and maybe an increase in stability, but it's small enough of an increase that you could offset it with other variables like tire width and pressure, shock choice, presence of rear sway bar...

I would consider the availability and cost of axle shafts. I think there are more options at lower cost to buy the newer axle shafts vs the older ones (that's how it was over 2 years ago when I last looked into it). That would motivate me to go for the wider axle housing just because it's easier to get the shafts if needed down the road.

[Elias]

So technically this one in the pic should have the 3.27 gears I need and the bigger rear disc and wider rear just trying to confirm before I got tomorrow afternoon. Pick n pull is doing a 50% this weekend so I'm buy the rear end and maybe the rest of the stuff for the big break swap for the front.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

So technically this one in the pic should have the 3.27 gears I need and the bigger rear disc and wider rear just trying to confirm before I got tomorrow afternoon. Pick n pull is doing a 50% this weekend so I'm buy the rear end and maybe the rest of the stuff for the big break swap for the front.

Police package '92+ cars were 3.27 equipped with 3.55 as an option on certain years. That one may be an open rear end or it could be a limited slip. Door tag and axle tag may be able to provide more information.


As far as gears go, the '87 has 3.27s and acceleration is brisk enough around town for a LoPo and holds its own on the freeway. It pulled the same MPG at 65 as it did at 70. Going faster than 70 and MPG starts falling off quick. Good highway mileage in it for me is 20-21 MPG with the air conditioner. It's just the nature of the beast, though, considering it is a flying brick.

[Elias]

Went today almost finished taking the rearend out but the top arm bolts giving me fits need to get a hammer to bang out the bolt. Also when I got home I looked a my original rear and the brake lines are different. How would I go about connecting the original brake line to the rear disc conversion one or would I just use my original metal lines that are on the rear and connect it to the new rear. Also the drive shaft the 96 cv had was a aluminum one would it fit on my 88. i didn't get to measures it Becouse i didn't have measuring tape. Can't I just remove my original 88 slip yoke and install it on the 96 and it should fit. Thanks in advance 👌🏼

[Tiggie]

Can't help on the brake lines since drums are still working hard for me.

But the driveshaft should fit. May need a 1330/1350 conversion u-joint on the front to match your AOD yoke, but they are available at reasonable cost. Be sure the driveshaft isn't bent - my local places like to bend them manhanding the cars on their front end loader.

[gadget73]

you have options with the lines. Either you duplicate the stock over-axle line design, or you make the brake lines resemble the 92+ cars. I went with the later arrangement because the original lines were all shot and had to be replaced anyway. Functionally I don't know that it matters a whole bunch. Use the non-abs hoses if you do this. The left side one has an internal T fitting that allows you to feed a line in from the master cylinder and then out to the other wheel.

if you put lines on the axle, you want the ABS hoses. No T.

[BlackVic_P71]

The box should have a 1310 u-joint and an aero should be 1330, measure to be sure.

LOUD EXHAUST IS FUN! AM I SHOUTING?

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Oh fuck the '92-up brake hose arrangement:

#1 fuck having the brake hose so close to the tires, tire are known to com apart and tear stuff in their near vicinity to pieces.

#2 fuck needing to pop the brake calipers off for just about any work that requires supporting the car by the frame with the axle hanging way down. You know, work like replacing your rear shocks or springs. And if you're not extra careful where you attach the brake hoses on the frame, you risk ripping one (usually driver side) apart if the suspension goes into max droop position even with shocks still attached and thus limiting down-travel.

#3 fuck running brake lines first way the fuck back behind the axle for the driver-side hose, then way the fuck up over and across the frame, then way the fuck forward of the axle for the passenger-side hose.

If the factory box Panther brake lines are good, every single one of them can be reused when installing the rear discs. Cutting off their very ends where they connect to the factory drum wheel cylinders is needed, sliding some metric flare nuts on, re-flaring the ends to bubble setup (not double-flare), and some creative re-shaping of the lines is all that's needed to make them work good. Finding a good way to attach disc-rear brake hoses to the axle housing is the final step. I'm actually in the perfect position to take pictures of this mess, seeing how I got access to a disc-converted box with the axle hanging by the control arms only.

[Elias]

Oh fuck the '92-up brake hose arrangement:

#1 fuck having the brake hose so close to the tires, tire are known to com apart and tear stuff in their near vicinity to pieces.

#2 fuck needing to pop the brake calipers off for just about any work that requires supporting the car by the frame with the axle hanging way down. You know, work like replacing your rear shocks or springs. And if you're not extra careful where you attach the brake hoses on the frame, you risk ripping one (usually driver side) apart if the suspension goes into max droop position even with shocks still attached and thus limiting down-travel.

#3 fuck running brake lines first way the fuck back behind the axle for the driver-side hose, then way the fuck up over and across the frame, then way the fuck forward of the axle for the passenger-side hose.

If the factory box Panther brake lines are good, every single one of them can be reused when installing the rear discs. Cutting off their very ends where they connect to the factory drum wheel cylinders is needed, sliding some metric flare nuts on, re-flaring the ends to bubble setup (not double-flare), and some creative re-shaping of the lines is all that's needed to make them work good. Finding a good way to attach disc-rear brake hoses to the axle housing is the final step. I'm actually in the perfect position to take pictures of this mess, seeing how I got access to a disc-converted box with the axle hanging by the control arms only.

My lines are good to no leaks or nothing. Don't want to run new one either if I do t have to please post the pics so I can copy your design