02 sensor help with aftermarket exhaust(bbk headers) , also EFI gurus may be needed.

[DrHax]

Hey guys. I recently got my engine back into my 1986 vic. The engine came from a f-150, its the first year of the HO firing order, so I'running the 18lb fuel injectors, the upper intake is all stock (panther.) but I am running BBK headers, and side pipes. (Currently there are no o2 sensors installed.)

So the engine fires up with a few turn overs roars to life goes up to 1500 rpm and just turns off after about twenty seconds after idling around 900. Pretty sure this is linked to There being no O2 sensors, it seems like the computer isn't getting the data it needs and just kill the engine.

The smog pump and ac have been deleted as the cats are long gone. I put plugs into the back the e7 what ever heads that came with the truck motor.

Now I have two new sensors on order, they'll be coming in tomorrow, but I know for the fact their location I think is going to be a bit lower then the stock one with the shorty BBK headers. I haven't tried ling up anything or installing anything yet as I would like to have the sensors into the pipes before I go crawling underneath the dirty car and monkey around. There's limited space as you guys know, and I think it'd be easier to deal with the sensors outside of the car then install.

Now for those of you running BBK headers did you have to use extensions, and what did you do? I am purchasing new O2 sensors since the old ones are rusted to rusted manifolds I had to cut out of the car.

[gadget73]

what ECM are you using? Running larger injectors and a different firing order requires something that is not the stock ECM. A Mark VIi ECM will probably work, or at least should work better than the stock one.

The engine will run without oxygen sensors. It just runs rich. The sensors don't even work for the first 10 minutes or so of driving anyway.

I used Mark VII sensors. Same thing, longer wire.

[DrHax]

I am running a mark something ECM. That I changed out. Okay so most likely the timing is just not enough to keep it going. Mark VII sensors, I wish I would have known that before I had them bring in the parts from the warehouse at O'reillys.

So what do you think could be causing it? Timing, Vacuum leak? Did I hook up something wrong? Where is the idiot check list I need for this idiot. Because I am impressed with how far I got, but its probably something stupid I am overlooking.

[DerekTheGreat]

I knew you could get that swap done.

[BigT]

You mentioned idle. What happens when the car is in gear? Does it still die? Have you tried driving the car a few feet back and forth in the driveway? Does it die? I had an F-150 that would die in Park at idle, but would run fine in gear (load on the engine). Come to find out I had a vacuum leak. Fix it and it idles in Park now.

When I did the HO swap/upgrade, I used a Mustang GT ECM. I was able to start it up and drive around the block without the O2s installed. I tied up the old exhaust and the O2s out of the way so they would not drag on the ground and drove to a local muffler shop. Other than driving in town with open pipes and ear plugs, I didn’t have a problem driving without O2s.

At the muffler shop, they removed the old pipes and mufflers. They build pipes to match the BBK headers and welded in new bung holes (Ha! Cornholio) for the O2 sensors. They were put in easy to replace O2 locations. I already had new Walker mufflers on me. For new pipes, H-pipe, weld in new O2 bung holes, and install my mufflers, it cost me around $110-$120.

[gadget73]

could be a large vac leak. They get stupid like that. Also could be the timing far off. Couple that with a wanky idle control motor and it might explain it. Can you keep it running if you play with the throttle?

[DrHax]

could be a large vac leak. They get stupid like that. Also could be the timing far off. Couple that with a wanky idle control motor and it might explain it. Can you keep it running if you play with the throttle?

Yeah if I mess with the pedal it stays alive. So I'm thinking the timing needs to be adjusted.

[gadget73]

that sounds more like a problem with the idle control motor, but try to get the timing close first. The idle is controlled partly with timing and partly with the idle control motor.

[DrHax]

Got it timed correctly and it was running fine. Even moved under its own power. But I turned it off (to move some things out of the way in the garage) and now nothing. I thought its as the battery at first, but after charging it and turning the key still nothing. I am a bit confused and worried as what the hell just happened. God damnit this car is going to be the end of me.

[DrHax]

OKAY HOLY SHIT. Turns out the starter and everything is perfectly fine. What isn't is the DAMN CAR IS IN REVERSE WHEN IT SHOULD BE IN PARK! Ask me how I found out. GOD DAMNIT I WAS JOKING ABOUT THE END OF ME PART!

Okay so where the hell do I go from here. Randomly it went from A-okay to fucked up real quickly.

EDIT: Found the culprit. The rod that goes into the bracket for the shifting linkage popped out and went INFRONT of the bracket.
Gods damnit it all this just absurd.

[gadget73]

Are you counting clicks or are you using the indicator on the dash? The pointer on the dash often goes out of whack, I'd ignore that.

If the lever will not go up any further and its not in park, verify the linkage isn't bent. If that is good, find the bolt on the shift mechanism near the brake booster. Its on a lever sticking out of the side of where the column comes under the hood, and it attaches to a rod down to the trans. Loosen that and pull up all the way on the rod going down to the trans to shift it into park. Tighten the bolt, make sure the rest of the gears are where they belong.

[DrHax]

Got the shifting linkage back together the car drives under its own power now I need to install the exhaust and button up a few things.

[VicCrownVic]

Woohoo!