Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Large Marge: The New Adventures

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by nfldfordltd View Post
    The fuel gauges in the older boxes were always kinda wonky. The 87, 88 Fords and two 89 Mercurys I had years ago had fat tops and bottoms with skinny between F and E.
    My '87 is a bit like that. If there was an extra mark past 'F', that would be full. Takes about 60 miles of cruising to get it to the 'F' mark. By the time the low fuel light comes on, there's usually about 4 gallons remaining. Comes on around an 1/8th of a tank. My sending unit is a bit flaky from time to time. Once you get down past a half tank, sometimes the low fuel light comes on, but the needle stays constant, other times the light comes on and the needle stays just above 'E'. The really weird times the light comes on, needle falls, and then the light goes off. Sometimes I can fill the car up and it takes a bit of driving for it to pop back up and start reading.

    If it's doing the flaky thing for an extended period while I'm driving distance, I'll fill up at 250 miles. Usually that keeps me in a pretty safe area, however it hasn't gone stupid lately. Seems to operate better the more often it is driven.


    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

    Comment


      #17
      the fuel light thing is probably more an issue with the low fuel indicator module than the sending unit. Its basically like a blinker stat inside. It has a long spring with a wire wrapped around it. Current flow between the sender and the gauge heats the wire and it keeps the contacts open. When the fuel level drops enough the current level reduces until the contacts no longer hold open and the light comes on. If those contacts get crusty it can stick and the light will be on all the time. Sometimes just unplugging the box and plugging it back in will fix that. It lives under the dash, basically above the gas pedal on the side of the heater floor ducts.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #18
        Large Marge is pretty happy! Got a lot of work done to her this week.

        She now has new: upper and lower radiator hoses, bypass hose, heater core hose, thermostat, radiator cap, lower and upper intake gaskets, coolant, mobil 1 oil and filter.

        In addition she now has a mustang HO intake and TB on her. Thain has a lathe and for the price of some beer he was able to bore out the LOPO EGR spacer for me.

        Planning on putting on rear rotors today (old ones are warped), and 1" wheel spacers to make it look a bit more reasonable.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0685.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	127.8 KB
ID:	1282389
        Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 10-06-2017, 11:59 AM.
        -Phil

        sigpic

        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

        Comment


          #19
          How does it feel with the HO intake and what not on it compared to before?

          I need to find a lopo spacer to send over to gadget.
          1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
          1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

          Comment


            #20
            It definitely fattened up the torque curve in the higher RPMs. it would fall on it's face before, now it keeps pulling. Even though it may only be a 10 peak HP gain, the additional power all over is definitely worth it. Better throttle response too, not sure if that's simply because for the same amount you press on the peddle, you are letting more air in, or if it's the engine actually being more responsive, or both.

            After i did the rear brakes and spacers, i let the car down, and the REAR gas-adjust on the passenger side barfed all over the driveway. Ugh. So i'll be doing that sometime soon.

            It also has 3 codes now and the check engine light keeps coming on. 34, 41, 91.
            +34 EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range
            and 41 and 91 are lean codes...hopefully related to the EGR and not to the HO intake swap. So guess I'll be getting another EGR valve (everything is connected, and the valve itself responds to vacuum)

            AND the parking brake ratcheting mechanism decided to no longer work. The parking brake can still be applied but it wont hold it. Anyone know whats up/any easy fixes?

            LAST problem i'll complain about. No heat. I flushed the heater core, it has excellent flow, I'm guessing it has something to do with the ATC sensor behind the glove compartment gadget was talking about in another thread. I have to try to find that.
            Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 10-06-2017, 04:33 PM.
            -Phil

            sigpic

            +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

            +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

            Comment


              #21
              34 could be a vacuum line problem, or the sensor is dinked. A leak between the EVR and the EGR valve will make it not open. Plastic line crack or leaks at that stupid connector would do it. So would a bad EVR. Hook a vacuum gauge up in place of the EGR and run the self test, If you don't see any vacuum applied its not a problem with the valve or sensor. If the valve opens and holds vacuum, its fine. The sensor itself could be bad but you can test that too.

              http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page35.html

              41 and 91 are engine lean codes, may be a vacuum leak.

              The parking brake should have a ratchet pawl and a spring to make it go. Spring may have come off or the pawl may need some oil. can't honestly say I've dug into that style but it should be relatively obvious how it works if you can get an eye on it.

              Open the glovebox and flip it all the way out. Unhook the clear vacuum line directly behind it. If you get heat, the ATC sensor has shat itself. I don't know if you can get them anymore.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #22
                +1 on the lean codes probably being a vacuum leak. If this thing still has the automatic parking brake release, the vacuum switch may be stuck in the position that pulls on the diaphragm all the time thus preventing the ratchet pawl from engaging - pull vacuum lines from switch, see what happens. IIRC the switch is fed by a large vacuum line, so a leaky switch could be a source for a vacuum leak large enough to affect the engine.

                The ATC is the devil, never quite understood the need for such a complicated system. But yes, pulling clear vacuum hose off the servo behind the glove box will allo the blend door spring to return door to its default position which is full heat.
                The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                Comment


                  #23
                  if it worked better than it does you could almost justify it. Honestly when mine finally dies it will get a straightforward cable drive blend door modification.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Well, it does help to reconnect the O2 sensor ground...those codes are gone. I switched the EGR position sensor with the one from the maverick (who knows if that ones good either), and the code is still there, but the engine light doesn't come on. I'll have to investigate it further another day. It's possible it's been throwing this code for a while and i didn't even know it. If the ATC is dead, what are my options? I need heat this winter haha
                    -Phil

                    sigpic

                    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                    Comment


                      #25
                      With dead ATC you pull the clear vacuum hose off the blend door servo and leave it off till winter is over. Plug the hose so you don't have a small vacuum leak all the time. Adjust your temperature with the blower fan speed and the power windows

                      The position sensor, I ran into that with the Doktor's Mk6, swapped another sensor that checked out good on its own and it didn't help. Same good sensor with its matched EGR valve did the trick tho - turns out while the EGR valve I first used was indeed closing all the way, its exact closed position was not kosher with the sensor. "New" valve close where the sensor wanted it to close, problem solved.
                      The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                      The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        What he said for the heat. The other option is you attach a cable to it and convert it to manual temperature control. The vacuum motor has to come off, from there you'd have to mount a bracket for the cable. Not totally sure if you can actually get enough access in there to do that without pulling it apart like you were doing a heater core swap.


                        I have modified those sensors with a file if the voltage is off in the high direction. Sometimes if the O ring under the sensor has flattened it can skew it too. A voltmeter will tell you what ails it.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I thought the o-ring was supposed to flatten? You tighten till the plastic contacts the steel, round-cross-section rubber o-ring between them just changes shape and fills up the square-cross-section channel it lives in better. At least that's been my experience with all the ones I've messed with.

                          Don't think the cable mod can happen with the dash in place, things are WAY too busy in there.
                          The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                          The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            it does flatten but when they get too old it can shrink and end up overly compressed.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Well it is the ATC sensor...I'll deal with that later.

                              For now, i'm having issues with the EGR. Here's what i know: The egr works, however there is no vacuum being sent to the valve during self test. I can cover the EVR opening and it will send full vacuum to the EGR valve, so the vacuum lines are good. The EVR's (i have one from the maverick and wagon ive switched out) Test good with 44 Ohm's. The connector to the EVR is sending about 10 volts to the EVR with the key on engine off. What am i missing here?
                              -Phil

                              sigpic

                              +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                              +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                              Comment


                                #30
                                its a pulsed ground to control that thing. It should have basically battery voltage to the + side all the time, the - side will vary. Analog voltmeter or a dwell tach will show whats going on. voltmeter you'd just wire across both wires, dwell tach would have the coil lead tied to the - lead on the EVR. Both will basically read more as it calls for more valve opening. Its not an exact science but it will tell you if the ECM is telling the EVR to do something or not.

                                Covering the vent shouldn't make it pull the valve open. Make sure the lines are not reversed on that thing. It may also just be stuck internally. Mine was going full open instead of varying things. A shot of wd40 down the vent tube made it work properly again.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X