Large Marge: The New Adventures

[Brown_Muscle]

He wrapped you into doing that huh!?

I'm going to try to get it down to bare metal, if i get holes in the process I guess I'll be doing some welding, but in most of them i think there's enough good metal to bring it down to rust free, then coat it was some epoxy primer and some sort of semi-matching paint to keep rust at bay

[Brown_Muscle]

The idle is a bit high after the HO swap.... I was thinking of plugging the hole with a self tapping brass screw and some lock tight... any better ideas?

[gadget73]

could remove the throttle plate from the throttle body and solder the hole shut. No chance of anything coming loose, and if it did its just lead that will not hurt anything. Failing that, small brass machine screw and nut, and solder the nut to the screw. If you have a little butane torch that should get hot enough.

Plug it with your finger first to see if it settles down though.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

He wrapped you into doing that huh!?

I was always wrapped into doing it, I think it was me who got him the quarter panel for it even. The main issue is who will be doing the body work and paint after I'm done replacing the sheetmetal, since I can do neither of those things.

I'm going to try to get it down to bare metal, if i get holes in the process I guess I'll be doing some welding, but in most of them i think there's enough good metal to bring it down to rust free, then coat it was some epoxy primer and some sort of semi-matching paint to keep rust at bay

I was talking about the corners right behind the rear wheels, pretty sure one of those will need cutting old stuff off and replacing it either with those pieces I gave you or something in better shape... Unless you were talking about the pieces themselves, in which case carry on with your plan.

The idle is a bit high after the HO swap.... I was thinking of plugging the hole with a self tapping brass screw and some lock tight... any better ideas?

Turn the idle down with the adjuster screw? Take the cables off the TB lever so they don't mess with your feel for the thing, then back the screw out till the throttle blade starts trying to wedge itself into the bore when closed. Turn the screw back in a little at a time, you want it where it stops the throttle blade just before it goes for its wedging action - this will give you the least amount of airflow at idle. Measure TPS voltage afterwards, readjust as needed.

[Mainemantom]

That's some good info right there. I'll be fine with the township

What's a guy to do when a brake swap and water pump needs to be done? Detail the interior of course. Aerospace 303 on everything vinyl/plastic, and chrome polish on the metal. I needed more pictures of this awesome interior anyway. Everything is in amazing shape, i wish the pictures did it justice.

That is a super clean interior. What you might try to find is the seat back pockets. They would look good. CV or MGM work fine. The ones on LTC don't fit exactly right. Seat backs just pop off. About 6-8 christmas tree fasteners hold them on.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

I may actually have a pair of those pockets Tom speaks of, I'll check the stash tomorrow.

[Brown_Muscle]

I'd rather not have to take the TB off again...hence why i was thinking the self tapping screw with locktite. I originally though about soldering it closed and maybe even drilling a smaller hole. It's already adjusted as closed as it will go, i did that before i installed it.

The quarter panel patches will eventually be installed, but not before this winter, im more concerned with the exposed rusting areas everywhere else.

The back pockets in the seats would be good for umbrella storage...i kind of like the clean look of the plastic pieces though.

I got the UCA and spindle on the other side of the car today, went a lot faster after doing the other side, naturally. You can really pump some caster into this setup compared to the old, i'm digging it. I love me some positive caster. I'm going to replace the passenger side front brake line, i don't like the way it looks, and while i don't mine losing rear brakes, losing front ones has never happened and kind of scares me.
-Does anyone know the fitting going into the brake line splitter/proportioning valves size? The one going to the front passenger, which is on the very bottom. Is it 3/8-24, inverted flare? or is it some weird metric BS?

[jaywish]

89 stock stuff is still sae

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Yeah what Jay said, it's "standard" tread, could be 7/16" instead of 3/8" tho, Ford did that often in order to prevent lines being threaded into the wrong ports.

Why do you need to take the TB off? You can adjust it just fine in place, all you're popping off are the cables from the lever, and stop-screw is easily reached front the front of the engine.

[Brown_Muscle]

It's already adjusted as closed as it will go, i did that before i installed it. I mean take it off to solder things to it

[86VickyLX]

Put a tach on it. It's probably in your head

[Brown_Muscle]

It's not, it can really get up to speed just idling, and much more braking force required to keep it stopped compared to before

[86VickyLX]

It's not, it can really get up to speed just idling, and much more braking force required to keep it stopped compared to before

Whats the tps voltage set to? If it's over 1.1 volts the iac will raise the idle. Unplug the IAC and see where it idles then.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Also obviously check for vacuum leaks. And I wouldn't trust any soldering in a passageway that leads straight into the cylinders, bolt and a staked nut is safer.

BTW Ford did make these adjustable plates to go between the IAC valve and the TB that were supposed to help with idle somehow...

[gadget73]

that just adds more air though.

Solder might fall out, but the engine will eat it without worries. Steel is not quite so mushy as lead. last one of these I modified was done with an aluminum pop rivet. If the steel pin is knocked out, its not particularly likely to cause any real damage.