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Thread: kishy's 1983 Grand Marquis 2dr

  1. #101
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    Are the boosters the inward-facing holes around the perimeter of the inner venturi assembly? Sorry for terminology issues. If that is them, yes, they are dribbling fuel.
    That's them. Drop the float level a little and that should help. Also be very sure the little holes in the top of the boosters are open. They are air bleeds, and if they are blocked you get a similar result. The extra fuel from the leaking boosters is contributing to the lack of idle control.
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  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    -idle mixture screws, and the same problem I had with the Ranger: why do they not seem to do anything? Threaded them in to seat and it kept running exactly the same. Idle must be set too high, but there's no lower it could be and still run.
    Did you poke a wire into the holes and blow 'em out with air when you had it disassembled?
    The other thing about little apparent change is its an emmisions era carb, ford probably did the same thing gm did, the idle mixture passages are smaller in an emmisions q-jet so you don't get the same range of adjustment as you would with a pre smog era carb.

    I do get the impression the bowl is too full. Need to recheck float height since parts-swapping. It's also at what I'd call the extreme of its adjustment so some creative re-bending will have to happen.
    Then drop it lower. Won't hurt to try, just the nuisance of having to take the air horn off again. No float height spec in the repair kit leaflet? As you drop it, pay attention to the car going lean when you are full throttling it (running the bowl dry).

  3. #103
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    fuel level in the bowl is somewhat dependant on pressure, so if that pump is overly enthusiastic it may be right "by the book" but in practice the fuel level ends up too high. The static height really isn't whats important, its the fuel level that matters, but most things don't allow you to check that so it just has to be inferred.

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  4. #104
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    That's them. Drop the float level a little and that should help. Also be very sure the little holes in the top of the boosters are open. They are air bleeds, and if they are blocked you get a similar result. The extra fuel from the leaking boosters is contributing to the lack of idle control.
    Ding ding ding, that did it. Convinced the float to sit a little lower and got the bowl level to spec (0.801" wet) and those holes stopped dribbling fuel. Now, on the lowest idle, if I crank a mixture screw in, it threatens to stall pretty aggressively. That's progress.

    Quote Originally Posted by GM_Guy View Post
    Did you poke a wire into the holes and blow 'em out with air when you had it disassembled?
    The other thing about little apparent change is its an emmisions era carb, ford probably did the same thing gm did, the idle mixture passages are smaller in an emmisions q-jet so you don't get the same range of adjustment as you would with a pre smog era carb.

    Then drop it lower. Won't hurt to try, just the nuisance of having to take the air horn off again. No float height spec in the repair kit leaflet? As you drop it, pay attention to the car going lean when you are full throttling it (running the bowl dry).
    No wire into any holes, but yes minor pick use, air use and liberal amounts of cleaner. I don't think anything is blocked. As above, corrected the excessive rich condition, but it isn't completely usable yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    fuel level in the bowl is somewhat dependant on pressure, so if that pump is overly enthusiastic it may be right "by the book" but in practice the fuel level ends up too high. The static height really isn't whats important, its the fuel level that matters, but most things don't allow you to check that so it just has to be inferred.
    I think the pump is fine in terms of pressure. There is probably a minor machining defect or surface imperfection in the new seat which doesn't allow it to seal nicely. Running the old parts seems pretty harmless.

    The fuel level can be, and was checked by cranking the engine with the lid just sitting on top of the carb to catch the spray, then lifting it off to measure. I got it pretty much perfect to spec this time, which did require some considerable float bending, but it got there nonetheless.

    I was able to drive it, and have the following observations:

    -I did get base timing to in between 10-11BTDC, however the idle quality at lowest idle setting with the vacuum advance connected is very poor (but quite fine at higher idle settings). Not sure what to make of this.
    -It smells pretty close to correct now at idle, and does not smoke when starting or idling. It does, however, emit a considerable "smoggy" cloud when I romp on it heavily; not a sooty black cloud, but just a gross gray "1980s summertime in LA" cloud.
    -It will restart when warm effortlessly and in what sounds like less than a full revolution. Bump the key, idling, no fuss. A mostly-cooled start requires both a pedal push as well as partial pedal during cranking otherwise it'll just crank and crank and crank.
    -It has oodles of power from any speed.
    -Transmission behaviour is just about ideal, so I'm not worried about having messed up TV too much. The carb spacer was replaced and is slightly thicker than what came off, so in theory TV may be slightly lower now. I may or may not fuss with this. I believe I had bumped it a little to the firmer side previously anyway.
    -It will not fall down to the lowest idle on its own at all. If I push on the choke linkage bits manually to make it fall down to there, it will idle at that speed, but will return to higher idle by spring tension from the choke thermostat (I think) if I push the pedal again.
    -idle vacuum on the line that normally goes to the vacuum advance is about 17-18 inHg, at both the lowest idle and next step up. There is better to be achieved yet. However, it's a little bouncy, I'd maybe describe it as about a 2 inHg vibration in the gauge reading.





    Last edited by kishy; 07-03-2022 at 01:04 AM.

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  5. #105
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Glad it's working better.

    The warm start/cold start sounds pretty typical. I haven't perfected the choke adjustments on mine yet, so I don't have much advice to offer, but you may have some luck by leaning out the choke cap and/or turning up the cold idle screw. So "they" say, the engine should start cold with one pump of the accelerator and no help from us. None of mine work that way.

    I am fighting the same issue with the extra fuel at throttle tip in with my 68. I think my issue stems from running a carburetor meant for the 390 on a 302, and also having been rebuilt by a chain at some point and having some mismatched parts. Try to get the choke fully off first. Then you can lessen the shot from the accelerator pump using the holes on the throttle (lower) and the accelerator pump arm (farther towards center of car). I adjusted mine to completely lean and it helped, but didn't completely solve it. The main jets play a role in this as well. Going smaller will help, but will also have an effect across the entire range. Do you know what number jets were in it?
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  6. #106
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    have you verified that the mechanical advance works properly? If its not doing it's thing, that might be the haze on acceleration. Spark needs to happen earlier as engine RPM increases or it won't burn efficiently.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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