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Thread: kishy's 1984 Town Car

  1. #341
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    honestly my Continental is more comfortable, half for the seats, the other half because of the annoying-ass mufflers. Need to fix that shit, I'd enjoy driving the car a lot more if it didn't cause me back pain and ear ringing.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  2. #342
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    They don't bother us.. But it does take some settling in and then with all the room we have it's easy to settle in and watch the miles roll on the odometer. I let my turd roll at 65, she's happy there. I'd do 70 if I had an HO equipped VII. Maybe I'll trade for one...
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  3. #343
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    These mufflers do not drone noticeably. They aren't silent, but there's nothing bad happening. Wind noise is far more annoying, as is my very noisy speedometer cable. Noise level is lower (as you'd hope) than when the exhaust ended after the Y-pipe, which is how it was before I did the exhaust.

    The Panther seats are absolute junk. Less-so when in good shape, but even then, it's like a plush park bench. I need to find some proper Chrysler buckets (I swear they're the only domestic automaker that knew how to make seats in the 80s) and toss em into this thing.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  4. #344
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    LoL too bad the rest of the Chrysler was a hold over from the 70's. (Fifth Avenue..)

    I think the seats are fine, but I think I'm the only one who does, that and Ashley.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  5. #345
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I think a chunk of foam in the lower back area would take care of it honestly. Surprisingly the Conti seats are fine in that regard, and they do not look like anything special at all. They're far from mint too.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #346
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    I think Panther seats are maybe appropriately designed if you're 4 feet tall and your arms are longer than your legs. That's the only way you could possibly keep your entire back in contact with the seatback without having to oddly cant the entire seat forward. My 83 with manual seats (therefore no adjustable seat bottom angle) is impossible to sit in "properly". You are pretty much forced to lean forward because the most upright position of the seatback is still reclined too far relative to the floor, but the seat bottom is slanted back...I'm 6'2, I can't sit with my knees jammed into the dashboard just so my back stays in contact with the seat.

    The Chrysler seats are nice because they have full height backs and the shape and angle allows me to sit with my back completely against the seatback, head not always in contact with the head restraint but it will touch if I tilt my head back slightly. That is exactly how an automotive seat should be. None of this "shoulders being higher than the top of the seat" nonsense. If we get rear ended in these cars, they'll either break our necks or give us severe whiplash. Swapping to the bigger head restraint is a worthwhile preventive measure in that area.



    So, a while ago I took the smog pump and AC belt off because the smog pump had begun making some horrific grinding noises. This is forcing me to revisit the smog pump topic because this car has brand new cats.

    I understand that the smog pump is only used in the first few minutes of operation of the engine, after which the bypass sends the air back out to atmosphere. I understand (foggily) that the purpose is to enable more complete catalytic action by the cats by providing necessary oxygen for reaction (via the ports on the cats) as well as enabling more complete reaction of not-fully-combusted stuff in the manifolds and downpipes before it gets to the cats (via the ports on the heads). I also understand that it makes a meaningful improvement in tailpipe hydrocarbon emissions before the cats have warmed up and reached peak effectiveness. Therefore, it is not "useless" and does serve a meaningful, valuable purpose.

    However: those buggers are expensive (where they're even available) and I'm not replacing it unless I have to. The car has functioning EGR and cats which means that at all times except for when it's first started cold, its emissions should be well within acceptable limits. The car is emissions exempt under the outgoing program so I've never known how it tested, and now the province has canceled the emissions testing program entirely, so I will never know how it blows on a sniffer, but I am confident it's not polluting more than it needs to.

    The question this leads to is about the cats. I have seen it rumoured that removal of the air pump while keeping cats can lead to premature clogging of the cats. I don't want to murder my new cats. I was not able to get a straight answer out of Magnaflow about if the air pump is necessary for their cats in this respect. The answer seemed to suggest they might have only been telling me that because it would be illegal to tell me I could take off the smog pump. I would assume the pump is a lot more critical to the cats, were it not for the fact that the air injection bypasses to atmosphere after a few minutes...

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  7. #347
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Well if my cats clog, I’ll know somewhat ahead of you. I slapped cats on the wagon but my air pump was inop when I got it and deleted entirely some time later, we’ll before the cats were fitted. I haven’t had any weird symptoms otherwise and it seems to behave fine with them fitted and no smog pump.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  8. #348
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    No smog pump and stock cats still intact on my 88 for the last 50K and twelve years. The last seven of those years has been mostly short trips. I don’t think they mind lack of the smog pump. Smells mildly of 110 octane (87 in the tank) when cold, only a hint of sulfur when warm.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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  9. #349
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Smog pump went away on the Towncar some 15 years ago, its had the same converters for better than 10 years now. The originals ran ~5 years with no pump and unknown with rotted out air lines. They were not clogged when removed, but the pipes were in bad shape so it all went at once.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #350
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Thanks folks, that's good enough for me...I'll delete the pump and diverter/bypass (but not the solenoids so as to not set a code).

    Sounds like the belt to use is a 560K6...I'll grab some of those in a future RockAuto order.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  11. #351
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Massive sinus infection is totally harshing my mellow. No further progress on wagon due to it. I am annoyed.

    Removed air pump from Lincoln. The 6K560 belt is absolutely not long enough, but I think it's one of those deals where the next longest might be too long. It also may be another example of CFI-era cars having different pulley sizes (re: me finding that the 3G swap belt doesn't fit properly either). I suspect the crank pulley is a bit bigger, but at the same time, there seems to be more clearance between the crank pulley and water pump pulley than on my 91. I dunno.

    I was able to get the 6K560 on by completely removing the tensioner/idler, routing the belt, then slipping the tensioner (with belt against it) onto the stud for it.

    I found that the exhaust check valves do not seem to work completely, so the temporary solution is to keep the lines on them, vacuum removed from TAD/TAB solenoids, but vacuum applied to one of the nipples on the TAD/TAB unit (I do not recall which half, sorry). This caused the exhaust pulses to stop coming back through the TAD/TAB unit.

    Junkyards got some cars of interest so if I feel up to it tomorrow I'll probably go scope those out.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  12. #352
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    I used a K060563 belt when I eliminated my pump. Gave just enough extra length to get the belt on without it being too long it couldn’t be tensioned.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  13. #353
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    Massive sinus infection is totally harshing my mellow. No further progress on wagon due to it. I am annoyed.
    I feel your pain. I have steering gear, pitman arm, all the front ball joints, and a rag joint just in case to replace on the cake and need to mow the lawn. None of that is getting done and I was too laid out to go to work today. and considering the cold sweats I have right now, I doubt tomorrow will be much different. And then the rains return on Sunday. Thankfully I have a garage to work on the car in when I do get better though... so there's that.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
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    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  14. #354
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
    I used a K060563 belt when I eliminated my pump. Gave just enough extra length to get the belt on without it being too long it couldn’t be tensioned.
    I was merely going by what has been said on this very forum, following a Google search. Then, I bought 3 of the 560 belt at 4 bucks apiece.

    As it happens the 563 is quite a bit more expensive so I'll take the fitment compromise until I run out of belts lol

    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    I feel your pain. I have steering gear, pitman arm, all the front ball joints, and a rag joint just in case to replace on the cake and need to mow the lawn. None of that is getting done and I was too laid out to go to work today. and considering the cold sweats I have right now, I doubt tomorrow will be much different. And then the rains return on Sunday. Thankfully I have a garage to work on the car in when I do get better though... so there's that.
    Yeah, it sucks. I normally manage to deflect most colds, the flu, and other "bugs" that go around, but my sinuses quickly fall victim to seasonal allergies. Not sure why that turned into a full-on sinus infection this time, but it did. Being new still to my job meant I worked through it...I have sick days but didn't want to give the impression I run to take them at the smallest thing. Cold sweats suck any time, but especially so when you're in uniform at work (FD).

    The wagon has been occupying my garage for well over a year now and it's making me mad that I can't do anything with the space because I can't move the car out. Looking forward to slapping that all together and hitting the road with it.
    Last edited by kishy; 05-31-2019 at 11:00 PM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  15. #355
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    I was merely going by what has been said on this very forum, following a Google search. Then, I bought 3 of the 560 belt at 4 bucks apiece.

    As it happens the 563 is quite a bit more expensive so I'll take the fitment compromise until I run out of belts lol
    That was my original plan too, but I saw a few people complained it wasn't going on too well, and to try a 565 variant, and some people said that was too long.

    I was standing on the belt aisle at work and saw the 563 and said F-it, worth a shot. Probably doesn't help it's a "lower volume" belt, being more unique to some Stratus models. At least you got it on, that's the important bit.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  16. #356
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Backtracking a bit. 5/25 I replaced the front window motors as I became tired of them getting stuck in the doors. There's a very slightly bad spot on the commutator of both motors, or a brush issue, but either way they would only ever get stuck when all the way down necessitating a door slam while holding the switch up. No more.

    As Lincoln owners are aware, the Lincoln front motors are weird vs the Ford/Mercury, and even the Lincoln rears. The bolts to attach them are long, machine-thread and pass through the motor, threading into bosses in the regulator assembly, unlike the Ford/Mercury/Rear Lincoln ones where a self-tapping screw threads into the motor housing.

    I bought ACI new motors as they were the cheapest motor that has the conventional, big-body design. I've had performance issues with the "slim body" motors and didn't want to go there. The ACI motors are made in China, work well, sound healthy, and fit correctly, with one exception: the gear housing lid is for a Ford/Mercury/Rear Lincoln but does not work unmodified on a Lincoln front door. One of the holes in the lid has to be drilled out larger to fit around the screw boss inside the door. This is readily obvious if you compare it to the old motor before attempting install. The motor housing is otherwise correct for the Lincoln front application.


    As for the smog delete: I'm wondering if my AC issue (rapid cycling, apparent leakage) might be a product of a clogged orifice tube. The compressor sounds extremely unhealthy now and I'm noticing the compressor clutch hub turns backwards a bit after the clutch disengages, as if the pressure fighting back against the compressor is abnormally high (I dunno, maybe that's normal, but seems it might not be for a car that's believed to be low on refrigerant). AC on this car is a project I'm aiming to tackle after the wagon is road-ready, so that's another kick in the ass to try to get that done. Yay.



















    Last edited by kishy; 06-02-2019 at 12:30 PM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  17. #357
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    My 82 crapped an orfice tube; the high side pressure was astronomical.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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  18. #358
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Put the gauges on it, that will tell you. The 84 Conti had that issue too, it got so high the relief valve blew and dumped most of the refrigerant out. It was actually cooling well, I walked away from under the hood to grab my thermometer and then suddenly it wasn't cooling. I never actually heard the relief valve let off but the blast of oily shmear on the bracket is what told me. Orifice tube was totally clogged, which meant the condenser was clogged. I was able to flush that mess out with a bunch of mineral spirits, air, and then acetone as a final flush to get the residue out. AC still works fine, though I did have to add about a can to make it cold again. Not sure where the leak is but considering most of those components simply cannot be had, it might not matter unless its an O-ring.

    and the compressor rolling backwards a little bit is normal.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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