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Thread: kishy's 1984 Town Car

  1. #321
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    the foam does squish through the net somewhat. A sheet of cardboard will help if thats all it is.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  2. #322
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    Seat bottom diagnosis...

    Yes, the foam is crushing through the net a fair bit. There is also a fair bit of ground up foam goodness on the carpet below. Additionally it seems like the pillow top padding is dead, which accounts for why it feels like there is essentially no cushioning in the seat. The pillow top is already flat and then it takes very little weight to totally flatten the foam against the net, so it's like you're sitting right on it. Firm and unpleasant.

    There was a design change re: the automatic door lock seat switch. This change happened after 1984 and before or in 1986. The older arrangement is a longer switch mounted left-right in the seat, and the newer arrangement is a shorter switch mounted fore-aft in the seat. The plastic mounting clips changed to accommodate this change in orientation. The design of the switch and its mode of operation are otherwise the same as is its pigtail and normally-open nature. It is not clear to me how much the bottom of the seat foam was altered with this change but at least some foam had to be taken out to make it happen I think.

    I had an idea about that, since the car loves to lock me out. The way it works is: if key is currently in run, and reverse light circuit has gone active at any time during the current "key in run" session, and all doors are closed (door open light is off), if there is sufficient weight in the driver seat, the doors will lock.

    In human speak this means the car is running, all doors are closed, driver is present in the car and the car has been taken out of park.

    I had the bright idea to use the seatbelt warning switch instead. Some of you will immediately see why that's no good.
    I made a little pigtail that joins the seat switch connector (vehicle side) to the seatbelt switch connector (seatbelt side).
    Tested it out and it works great, except for one little issue: the seatbelt switch is normally closed, and opens when the belt is attached. Therefore the car would continue to lock me out unless I buckle the belt before exiting the car. Back to the drawing board. It's just unhooked for now.

    I tried putting cardboard between the foam and metal net, on the premise that having more foam be located above the net would add a feeling of more padding. Didn't help much and now it makes unfortunate noises. Looks like new seat foam time. I might just swap the whole junkyard seat I just got in and do that for a while.
    Last edited by kishy; 04-03-2019 at 10:35 PM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  3. #323
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, what's the code to punch in to get the autolock feature to work? I think mine quit purposely. Congrats on POTM by the way! I haven't even voted on that stuff in over four months. Bad Derek.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  4. #324
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If you swap the keyless entry module for a later one, you can disable the auto-lock. I don't know when that change happened, but my Mark VII will do it. The 84 Conti will not. The modules themselves interchange as far as I know. Also can't recall what the key press sequence is to turn it on/off but its not mentioned in the 84 book and using the instructions from the 91 does exactly nothing. Since the system works properly I've decided to just leave it be. If the module dies I'll seek a later one out.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #325
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Was it only '89 and up? Ashley's old '89 Townie had the auto-lock feature. I can't remember if mine worked and stopped or never worked. I'm going with never worked.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  6. #326
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I honestly don't know when it changed. The auto-lock was standard with keyless entry, but being able to disable it came later. I've gotten used to it, but it still annoys me when I go to grab something out of the car on the passenger side and the door is locked. I use the trunk popping function more than anything else.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #327
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    Orrrrr...unhook the seat switch. It will never auto lock the door if it doesn't know you're in the seat.

    I like the auto lock feature in general but I don't like how unreliable the seat switch is. It constantly locks me out. I'm looking forward to improving that.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  8. #328
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Where is this switch and do they go bad? Could be what happened with mine, although now I that I'm thinking about it, her owner's manual had a page detailing how it worked and mine does not. Meh. I drive the thing like once a month nowadays at best. I do like being able to pop the truck, so at least that portion of it still works properly.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  9. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Where is this switch and do they go bad? Could be what happened with mine, although now I that I'm thinking about it, her owner's manual had a page detailing how it worked and mine does not. Meh. I drive the thing like once a month nowadays at best. I do like being able to pop the truck, so at least that portion of it still works properly.
    The switch is under the seat, sandwiched between the wire mesh/net and the seat cushion. You can see it if you put your head in the rear footwell. In your car I expect it runs right-left and is made of metal and plastic, about 7 inches long. 2 wire pigtail to a connector ziptied to the power seat wiring. Unplug that connector and you lost auto-lock but all other keypad functions continue working as normal.

    The switch does not "go bad" in the traditional sense but can be "made to become bad" by the condition of the seat, I guess. It's supposed to have a springy tendency that makes it sit in an arch shape with no pressure on it. If the seat cushion is kinda crushed or the switch has lost its springyness, the switch will lay flat. If switch is flat, it is closed, and the module will lock the door because it thinks you're in the seat. If it is not arched, it's an issue.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  10. #330
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    It's like an airbag sensor before airbags. I'll stick my head up under the skirt next time I'm down there.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  11. #331
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    A few topics here:

    The seat bottom:



    The seat switch, barely visible, laying flat:



    Older and newer parts:



    Cardboard supports which didn't help:




    Re-examined putting a correct Town Car hood ornament (shorter, wider) on the Mark VI grille surround (as that is what is on my car). No go.
    1. The angle of the "peak" is more aggressive on the Mark VI surround, thus the base of the Town Car one will not lay correctly on it (leaves a gap at the front corners)
    2. The locating pegs to keep it oriented correctly are spaced very slightly off and don't align quite right. The Mark VI ornament base has a third peg which would make it even more impossible to use it unmodified on a Town Car surround.
    3. The round ridge on the underside of the ornament base is larger on the Town Car ornament, and won't go into the hole of the Mark VI grille surround.
    4. The Town Car ornament cannot be attached to the Mark VI ornament base, as the 'pivoting foot part' at the bottom is larger and shaped different.

    So, basically, gotta swap back to a Town Car grille surround if I want it to fit properly. Thing with that is, the Town Car one is a little less squared off in its overall styling. The Mark VI grille better matches the faux grille in the bumper. It isn't clear to me that the Mark VI grille insert will properly fit the Town Car grille surround. These parts were made significantly different despite their similarities. More tinkering to be done here yet.












    Washed the car and dug out the Bleche-Wite (please, for the love of the flying spaghetti monster...the first word is not and never has been "bleach"). Stylin'.









    This is literally the car's worst angle, I think, and it still works it OK:








    The new dashcam, Viofo A129 Duo:





    So far, I like it, but I have some gripes with the form factor and mounting. Overall it seems like a decent device though.


    Power antenna...I swapped in the good junkyard one today.
    It is plug-n-play. Unplug the antenna relay, plug the new antenna "fake relay" into the relay connector, and leave the original antenna connector hanging disconnected. Works like new. I'll definitely be watching for this exact unit in all junkyard Townies going forward.

    I also have a Mark VI antenna but I think its really weird proprietary relay thing is somehow defective as no amount of prodding I've done can make it do anything useful. Oh well.



    This is our hero, the new one:



    My factory original:



    The Mark VI:





    Original relay above, new antenna "fake relay" pigtail is connected:





    I also got a great condition shift knob off the white junkyard 84. It is now where it belongs.


    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  12. #332
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Looking good.

    Anyway you can shave down the base of the hood ornament and make it fit within the cup of the other one? Or would that result in the opposite combination of what you were after?
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  13. #333
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    What David said, I love that brown. Reminds me I need to find a nice shift knob, mine is peeling.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  14. #334
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The best and worst thing about white walls is that they look really nice when clean, but only when clean. Otherwise they're awful. If I could have found decent quality WW for my Conti it would have them. They look proper on wire spoke wheels.

    Pics of inside of goofy antenna relay? Is it a relay with a bunch of circuitry as well? If so its probably the same goofy one my Continental has. Mine had an obviously melted trace and simply fixing the melted spot made it work correctly. The antenna is original but it was mechanically jacked up when I got it and wouldn't stop running. I suspect the trace turned itself into a thermal fuse. Not an option now, its bridged with desoldering braid.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  15. #335
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    Meh. I like the Continental ornament a little better. Coincidentally(well maybe not), it looks a lot like the Aero ornament. I was toying with the idea of changing mine out for one off a early FWD Conti, the ones with the lucite in em, but decided to just stick with the '90-'97 style. I've been thru 3 of them. The original was gold and in disgusting condition, the 2nd was extremely nice but some asshole broke it in the parkinglot at Meijer and left it on my hood, 3rd is not as nice as the 2nd but it was cheep on eBay and its better than no ornament and its not like the car is winning any prizes in its condition anyway.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  16. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Looking good.

    Anyway you can shave down the base of the hood ornament and make it fit within the cup of the other one? Or would that result in the opposite combination of what you were after?
    Yes, that would achieve the combination I want, but the plating would be an issue as there will be no way to zip through it that doesn't make the plating lift. At least I suspect.

    However I'm realizing there are other things I don't like here. Ever since I did the header swap I've disliked the profile forward of the end of the hood because it's "different". Essentially it slopes more, and is more pointy. I need to see if the entire grille surround can swap. If it can, I think it will be the compromise I want. I had previously established that the parts are keyed to prevent you doing that but keys can be defeated with pliers and such. What remains unknown until I try, is if the profile of the header panel can mate to the profile of the grille surround. Then there's the issue of the grille no longer matching the bumper grille but whatever. I ran that way before the header panel swap and it didn't bug me then.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    The best and worst thing about white walls is that they look really nice when clean, but only when clean. Otherwise they're awful. If I could have found decent quality WW for my Conti it would have them. They look proper on wire spoke wheels.

    Pics of inside of goofy antenna relay? Is it a relay with a bunch of circuitry as well? If so its probably the same goofy one my Continental has. Mine had an obviously melted trace and simply fixing the melted spot made it work correctly. The antenna is original but it was mechanically jacked up when I got it and wouldn't stop running. I suspect the trace turned itself into a thermal fuse. Not an option now, its bridged with desoldering braid.
    Yeah, white walls are a curse in that way. They are so unforgiving. My driveway being made of mud does not help.

    I will put the antenna relay on my "list"...the one in my head, of all the things I intend to talk about here. It'll happen, just not now. lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by BigMerc96 View Post
    Meh. I like the Continental ornament a little better. Coincidentally(well maybe not), it looks a lot like the Aero ornament. I was toying with the idea of changing mine out for one off a early FWD Conti, the ones with the lucite in em, but decided to just stick with the '90-'97 style. I've been thru 3 of them. The original was gold and in disgusting condition, the 2nd was extremely nice but some asshole broke it in the parkinglot at Meijer and left it on my hood, 3rd is not as nice as the 2nd but it was cheep on eBay and its better than no ornament and its not like the car is winning any prizes in its condition anyway.
    I like the wider ornament mainly because it is quite unlike the Lincoln emblem everyone knows...the taller skinnier one stuck with the brand all the way up to present. The shorter wider one is "different". I guess I'm an automotive hipster.





    Exhaust sound video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWDYff8c11A

    Returned yesterday from a much needed one week vacation, once again on Pelee Island (pelee.org, Wikipedia). A new and controversial ferry, MV Pelee Islander II, is in service this year. The government tender for its construction was awarded to a Chilean company, Asenav, and while the vessel is much nicer than what it will soon replace, I spotted some shoddy workmanship and that pales in the face of the insult it was to our local community and local shipbuilding company that didn't get the contract. Even if it had cost more (and it was never established that it would have), keeping the money in Canada seemed like such an obvious choice...but what's done is done and the new ferry will be used for decades to come, shoddy welds and weird pot-metal latches included.

    The Town Car performed phenomenally for this trip as it has in the past. The Swagman XTC-4 hitch mount carrier performed as I hoped, and the Air Lift helpers in the rear coils kept the car level when loaded down with 3 people, the week's supplies for said 3 people, which might not seem like much in weight, but bottled water is one of those supplies. The platform-style bike carrier proved far superior to the hanging-style and despite weighing a ton (70lbs, roughly) I will never go back to the trunklid-strap style. Especially when handling "cruiser" style bikes, the platform carrier really proves itself. Hanging a cruiser frame is complicated as the tubes do not go the places that bike carrier designers want them to go.
















    Unrelated in all respects, I bought the Harbor Freight house brand Bauer cordless angle grinder, with 3Ah battery. $5 off coupon for the grinder, battery at regular price (meh), charger open box at $5 off. Seems like a decent tool. The intent is to simplify junkyard removal of things like rear axles/control arms/sway bars and exhaust parts, where the fasteners are doing an excellent job of fastening and don't respond to normal tools. I'm excited to find something to use it on. The cordless reciprocating saw of course still has use for the same things, but it's a bigger more awkward tool.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  17. #337
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    They let you take in angle grinders up there and in Detroit? Its a no no in the yards out in PA that I frequent.


    That bike carrier looks good. Much more rugged than the lay on the trunk deal. Plus I am against anything touching the paint/body panels.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  18. #338
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    They let you take in angle grinders up there and in Detroit? Its a no no in the yards out in PA that I frequent.


    That bike carrier looks good. Much more rugged than the lay on the trunk deal. Plus I am against anything touching the paint/body panels.
    Most likely, it is not actually allowed...but hell, I brought in a corded grinder and used it on an outlet beside a vending machine once. I suppose if I get turned away with it, well, that's fine. It will still see use anyway.

    Another reason for wanting it is that I have a sneaking suspicion the HFT Bauer tools might...miiiiiight...use the same batteries as Canadian Tire store brand Mastercraft tools (after all, the Chinese tool makers are only working off so many reference designs...). This will be quick to verify once I finally go out to my damn garage but it's rainy and I feel unmotivated.

    The trunk mount bike carrier I've used, which is the same one my mom used when she brought me on these same trips as a single-digit-age kid, is definitely rugged. Fairly substantial materials. I have no confidence issues with it, necessarily, but it's more the convenience of getting into the trunk, loading/unloading the bikes, and as you mentioned, paint contact. Not that my paint is great, but someday this car will get a paintjob and then it will start to matter more.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  19. #339
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Sometimes a sawzall will be allowed where a grinder will not be. No sparks (usually) with a sawzall so much less chance of setting something on fire.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  20. #340
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    That is why I like my Town Car for road trips. Only thing comfier would be a late 80's early 90's glass eye Econoline conversion van. Guess a GM offering would work too. But the air assist in the back is nice and there is plenty of room for cargo. It just pains me to know that when on road trips, it will not see a garage and sees the elements. Why I might sell it. It's either that or moth ball it.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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