I am working on a concept for a Bass system in my GM the involves two mirrored 6 order band-pass boxes mounted on either side of the trunk with a 6.5 sub in each. The boxes will be made from stacked 3/4 Birch plywood and will each have a lexan window facing inward and a window on top with a main port either exiting forward or towards the center of the trunk. The idea is to run the subs in parallel but to be honest, like i said, this is all still in the concept phase. The idea is something elegant but space saving that can add to the stage well but I am not looking to be obnoxious; I commute 60 miles round trip each day so this is a system that I want to enjoy and get longevity from.
This is my first REAL system, ever. I played with car audio in High School and currently feel confident in doing head and speaker upgrades; designing a tuned box like this is not something I have done before so I have been doing A LOT of research. I am basing my concepts on ideas I have gotten from Mark on Car Audio Fabrication and Doug on Amplified (YouTube Channels) and was going to go all in with something like a pair of 6.5 sundowners or even CT sounds and a big meaty amp, but then i saw this video which uses some cheaper and lower watt subs to produce some rather impressive results.
I have never really liked Pyle, I have always felt the name was ironically fitting; however I have always had the same opinion of Pyramid until last year I when cheaped out and put a pair of the Pro Pyramid woofers in the front doors of our suburban, they are still impressing me just off the JVC head. Of course those speakers don't get pushed hard, my wife drives that truck daily and the only time they get pushed hard is when I am in the truck by myself as both my kids complain that my music is too loud........ So longevity wise under my use I have no idea. But this concept of low wattage (Looks like he might actually be giving both subs the full 200watts even though he said 100watts RMS) interest me and I wonder if the concepts here could be applied to my build. Of course the box above is two subs in a massive common chamber with a port big enough to stick my 4 year old through; seeing as I am pretty much a noob to all of this I have no idea how these concepts could translate to the build i have in mind. I feel I need to settle on the hardware before I get too involved in my box design so at this point i am looking for guidance and thought I would start here as you are all familiar with the acoustical requirements on these cars.
I am looking for discussion on the ideas
reading materiel that relates
and similar experience stories.
Can a low wattage system work or do i need to look at 500watts RMS or more each? I have already done a 3g upgrade and need to finish my big3, battery and 0 gauge to the back are on the list after that.
This is my first REAL system, ever. I played with car audio in High School and currently feel confident in doing head and speaker upgrades; designing a tuned box like this is not something I have done before so I have been doing A LOT of research. I am basing my concepts on ideas I have gotten from Mark on Car Audio Fabrication and Doug on Amplified (YouTube Channels) and was going to go all in with something like a pair of 6.5 sundowners or even CT sounds and a big meaty amp, but then i saw this video which uses some cheaper and lower watt subs to produce some rather impressive results.
I have never really liked Pyle, I have always felt the name was ironically fitting; however I have always had the same opinion of Pyramid until last year I when cheaped out and put a pair of the Pro Pyramid woofers in the front doors of our suburban, they are still impressing me just off the JVC head. Of course those speakers don't get pushed hard, my wife drives that truck daily and the only time they get pushed hard is when I am in the truck by myself as both my kids complain that my music is too loud........ So longevity wise under my use I have no idea. But this concept of low wattage (Looks like he might actually be giving both subs the full 200watts even though he said 100watts RMS) interest me and I wonder if the concepts here could be applied to my build. Of course the box above is two subs in a massive common chamber with a port big enough to stick my 4 year old through; seeing as I am pretty much a noob to all of this I have no idea how these concepts could translate to the build i have in mind. I feel I need to settle on the hardware before I get too involved in my box design so at this point i am looking for guidance and thought I would start here as you are all familiar with the acoustical requirements on these cars.
I am looking for discussion on the ideas
reading materiel that relates
and similar experience stories.
Can a low wattage system work or do i need to look at 500watts RMS or more each? I have already done a 3g upgrade and need to finish my big3, battery and 0 gauge to the back are on the list after that.
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