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Thread: kishy's 1985 Ranger

  1. #381
    I post a lot...
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    Milwaukee is nice but almost all made in China. Dewalt is mostly made in Mexico and elsewhere. I have seen nothing from dewalt made in China though there may be some things for instance the music boxes?. Also Dewalt makes very nice tools. I am still using my 18V tools but I have used the 20v line and they are even nicer than my 18v tools. Never had one dewalt tool fail me. My stepson had a few minor PITA problems with a couple of Milwaukee drill,drive,hammer tools.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

  2. #382
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Milwaukee is Chinese-owned, but only partially Chinese-made, with other production facilities elsewhere which do include the US. Their management and product design is done in the US, as well. At the top of the chain, though, at least a chunk of the profits end up in China.

    If you want tools made in USA with USA ownership at the top, buy Craftsman. Not everything is, but a bunch of stuff is. SBD is doing right by the brand name and my understanding is the tools aren't half bad, either. Craftsman products majority assembled in USA are clearly marked bragging about this fact, so they're easy to spot on the shelf.

    I believe SBD is also bringing a fair bit of DeWalt production back to North America as well. SBD of course being the parent company to both brands plus a bunch of other stuff, and is headquartered in the US. DeWalt stuff seems to perform well and is fairly rugged - I've seen a drill get thrown hard at a cement block wall in a moment of frustration, and it looked and performed no different afterwards.

    My decision to go Milwaukee was based on the variety of tools they offer (some unique offerings), anecdotal and also real reviews/performance commentary, and warranty. I don't beat on the stuff every day, accordingly, if it's going to break prematurely, a 3 year warranty might not be long enough to catch that failure, but the 5 year offering from Milwaukee might be. I've got enough semi-pro and pro mechanic-type folks in my circle who swear by Milwaukee that it was the obvious choice.

    I consider their Chinese ownership to be unfortunate, but ultimately it was inconsequential in my decision.

    I might choose to flex some modmin abilities and bump these replies out into my upcoming Milwaukee impression thread, when I make it. Hopefully nobody sees that as an overstep.
    Last edited by kishy; 12-03-2021 at 12:32 PM.

    Current driver: 85 Ranger
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM POTM 12/2017
    Not Panthers, Parked: Ranger trailer | 05 Focus | 04 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC
    Junkyards

  3. #383
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    The Ranger has been shifting poorly (synchros don't feel very synchroey). Step one was verify it still had oil.

    As a refresher, this has a Toyo Kogyo TK5 manual transmission, which is a sibling to the RX7 Turbo II transmission. This is not an M5OD like later Rangers and other trucks use. This trans was DIY-rebuilt (bearings and seals only, reused synchros) very recently.

    Rebuilt trans went in at 141,739km on 2019-11-23.
    Odometer currently shows 147,967km on 2021-12-12.

    Inspection for leaks found there was a backed out bolt on the housing which was leaking. Tightened that, no other leaks found.
    Fluid level checked out as correct because I had mildly overfilled previously.
    However, the oil had a fair bit of metallic shimmer from probably the new bearings wearing in.
    Decided to change it, but didn't have enough of the desired oil (Redline MT-90, synthetic 75W90 GL4), so had to see what the parts store could hook me up with on short notice.



    Came home with Carquest Premium 85W140, listed as GL5/GL4/GL3 compatible. The GL4 bit is quite important, probably way more important than the viscosity, because of yellow metal compatibility. Under the guidance of a friend who knows the RX7 trans (and by extension this one), mixed some of that with some DexIII/Mercon and filled it up.

    I wouldn't say it drives particularly nice. The synchros might just be toast, but I remember that it was sort of awful when I first got it, and when I originally changed over to the Redline product it got much better. Going to try to get a more appropriate oil and change it out quickly, see what happens. I'm sort of hoping that somehow, magically, the synchros are fine and just aren't happy with the lubricating abilities of the oil that's in it.

    From there, moved on to the remote start.



    First, I modified the neutral safety switch to meet my needs.
    The transmission has a NSS installed that Ford never used (Ford used a clutch safety switch and disregards shifter position for starting purposes). Presumably some other application of this transmission uses that NSS, but not this one, so it was available for me to wire in with the remote starter to simplify some aspects of the setup a bit.





    With the NSS altered to meet my needs, I wired in the remote starter. It's a simple 2-button unit, it does support lock features but those are going unused here. Used some insulation-displacing splices in spots that I couldn't do a more proper job, and soldered all critically important connections. I left the clutch switch in the picture for starting with the key, but I bypassed it for the remote start, which goes through the neutral switch instead. Shifter in N and hood closed, remote start will function. Shifter in any gear, and/or hood is not fully closed, remote start will not function. I opted to configure the module for an "automatic trans" installation, so I don't have to manually tell the remote starter every time I get out that I want it "ready" for next time. The NSS functionally fills that role, in case I park in gear and forget about it. I typically don't park in gear, but if I'm on an incline I will.



    The finished install actually isn't too hideous, I did a nice job shortening wires and tucking them up neatly plus I deleted all the wires unused in this installation by completely de-pinning them from the connectors. It only ended up being 11 wires plus the antenna cable.
    Last edited by kishy; 12-12-2021 at 11:07 AM.

    Current driver: 85 Ranger
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM POTM 12/2017
    Not Panthers, Parked: Ranger trailer | 05 Focus | 04 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC
    Junkyards

  4. #384
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Minor development. Drove the truck a fair bit today, the transmission is feeling better. I think because the ATF floats on top of the gear oil, it needs to see some mileage to stir things up, and it does feel way better. Not great, but better. I picked up two different possible fluids to try, a Valvoline product and a Royal Purple product. I don't buy the hype on RP but it specifically claims yellow metal compatibility and most likely that's what's going into this on next change, which will be fairly soon I think. The Valvoline product is concerning because while it states it's GL4 compatible, it specifically says "non-synchronized" transmissions as a use case, and does not list "synchronized" ones, which makes me hesitate to put it in.

    The remote start stopped working. It gave a flash code (via the parking lights) indicating the brake light circuit was active. I looked and saw that the lights were not on, and made sure that they did still work with the switch (they did), couldn't make any sense of it at first. But while idling via the key later on, though, I saw the brake lights glowing...that whole ECM cruise voltage thing. I had fuse-protected the resistor that pulls that voltage down, and the fuse blew. It was just a 2A fuse, so I put in a 5A, and it fixed the problem.
    Last edited by kishy; 12-12-2021 at 11:08 PM.

    Current driver: 85 Ranger
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM POTM 12/2017
    Not Panthers, Parked: Ranger trailer | 05 Focus | 04 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC
    Junkyards

  5. #385
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Found a couple of these I forgot to post, from after I got the rear cargo lighting working:



    Not bad.

    Trans oil was changed above at 147,967km, 3 days ago. While it did start shifting somewhat better than it had been with the Redline MT90 contaminated with finely ground bearing dust, it still wasn't quite right. I set out to figure out what I could get my hands on easily without breaking the bank, and considering I was heading across to Detroit for the junkyard stuff on Sunday, made sense to look at what I could get there...Canadians will appreciate what a special experience it is to be able to buy application-specific auto parts or specialty fluids at 8pm on a Sunday. We don't get that sort of accommodation here.

    I ended up with two quarts of Valvoline synthetic 75W90, and two quarts of Royal Purple synthetic 75W90.

    The Valvoline product is not as explicit about its applications as I'd like. It is a GL5 oil, but they say on it that it makes a great replacement for GL4. OK, cool, that means great yellow metal compatibility right? If so, why does it go out of its way to specify "non-synchronized" manual transmissions, and not list "synchronized" ones too? Valvoline claims online to make their products safe for yellow metals but I got a bad vibe from it and decided not to run it. The Royal Purple, on the other hand, specifically mentions yellow metal compatibility on the bottle. That's what I was going to use, until...



    I was trying to sort out what oil I needed to buy for the Focus with the MTX75. By most indications, there is a Ford specialty oil that is considered the best choice for them. Meet XT-M5-QS: https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/...on-fluids.html

    MTX75? Check.
    "older transmissions including rear wheel drive that recommend GL-3 and GL-4 type gear oils"...also check!

    So tonight at 148,167km (200km on the oil) I drained the 85W140+Mercon combo and put some of this stuff in. Took it for a drive. At the very least it's the same as the 85W140+Mercon, and I'm inclined to say it's actually smoother. The synchros might be synchroing again. I should mention that I had no opposition to running Redline in it again, but I only have 1 quart of it, and it's expensive stuff that requires special ordering to get locally.



    Also: a NOS front sway bar (of the unfortunately less common design needed for my truck) is in the mail. Going to need to sort out some hardware issues, mainly a couple sorta unique U-bolts.

    Photo courtesy of another Ranger person:


    The U-bolts are the only pictured item that isn't already on my truck (therefore are the items I need to source). The width through the centre is important as they retain a bushing.
    Last edited by kishy; 12-15-2021 at 01:26 AM.

    Current driver: 85 Ranger
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM POTM 12/2017
    Not Panthers, Parked: Ranger trailer | 05 Focus | 04 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC
    Junkyards

  6. #386
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I'm not a huge fan of Redline. Lots of hype and the price tag which goes with it, but not too solid in the test results department, much like Royal Purple. They're not terrible, but I don't believe they're worth the price they command considering other available options. I've attached a dusty test report from 2007 regarding gear oils for your viewing pleasure.A-Study-of-Automotive-Gear-Lubes [2007].pdf

    Also, are you sure your clutch is disengaging 100% when you step on the pedal? I like to test for this by being completely stopped, in first gear on the clutch and then pull out of gear & hang out in neutral while still on the clutch and ready to go back into first gear. Wait about 10 or 20 seconds and then try to go for first. If it doesn't fly right back in, that tells me the input shaft is being spun by the engine still... Fast forward several years and depending how severe it is, that'll certainly result in toasted synchros as they have to work harder to well, synchronize.
    Last edited by DerekTheGreat; 12-15-2021 at 09:07 AM.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  7. #387
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    have seen that with bad pilot bearings before. If the inner race doesn't rotate freely it ends up dragging the input shaft along for the ride.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #388
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    I will note that the special Ford oil has done wonders for the shifting, and while it still occasionally feels like you're clumsily knocking parts together inside the transmission, it feels smoother. Not harsh. An improvement by far.

    Tried to test the way you outline Derek, but found results that either would be a 100% fail or a 100% pass, and it depends on exactly what is causing the feeling I get in the shifter. I don't think the problem is so much that it isn't synchronizing, it is more likely that it's just a very notchy transmission. And having had it apart and worked the shift forks by hand at that time, I think it may just be how it is. There is an extremely heavy "detent" feeling in the TK5 when it clicks onto a gear, like flipping a really firm light switch. The hardest engagements were first and reverse, and the oil seems to have made both of them better.

    Tonight, I bled the clutch. Relatively trouble-free process, unlike the M5OD trucks. Full disengagement is pretty much completely on the floor, which is not something I'd call ideal, I'd prefer to see it a bit higher up, but it seems like this is just how it is. I verified while the drive wheels were in the air that with the trans in gear and clutch pedal on the floor, the driveshaft will not turn, not even a little.

    Took it out for a drive, found the clumsy parts-colliding-together feeling is still sorta there, but maybe has been improved subtly more as well. I'll try to be more conscious of clutching all the way to the floor as well, because I think I've gotten sloppy with that.
    Last edited by kishy; 12-22-2021 at 12:26 AM.

    Current driver: 85 Ranger
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM POTM 12/2017
    Not Panthers, Parked: Ranger trailer | 05 Focus | 04 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC
    Junkyards

  9. #389
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    I love this Ranger. Really like your bed lighting. Question: when are you going to install the amps and subwoofers? LOL

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