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Thread: kishy's 1985 Ranger

  1. #281
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    I was planning to shove some relays in that box, but then the intent behind the box changed when I realized I had so little usable wire on the truck. As you can see there's no room in there now. Breaking the trailer stuff out into a second box containing some relays is a future idea, but it'll do for now. I was going to run a good size battery positive wire to the back and then have rear-mounted power distribution to allow for easily lighting the bed and maybe some reverse flood lighting under the bumper (the same feed could be used for the relay switched side for trailer lights) but that will come later.

    Any trailer I own is going to have LED lighting to be less of a burden in that way, so probably a non-issue.

    I haven't gotten that far in planning for the Lincoln yet. Relays are always good but if the lamps are LED it matters a lot less.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  2. #282
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    LED lighting mostly makes all of that not an issue. Standard lights with thermal blinkers are where you have trouble. Add load and you get the rapid flash thing going on. THat and the extra load on the marginal light switches doesn't help.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #283
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Today, I installed Air Lift Ride Control kit 59516 on the Ranger. This should eliminate sag when pushing the cargo capacity.

    Install was straightforward. I'm going with manual inflation valves for now and if I find they really help on a frequent enough basis I may look at an automated compressor system. I have them plumbed independently with the fill valves in the wheel wells.

    I also brought the idle speed down. It was around 1000, and is now around 600. I'm not sure what's "correct" for this engine but that's about as low as it can be before the charging voltage starts to drop, so that's the minimum I want it at. Should make creeping along in traffic a lot easier though.





    I picked up the Harbor Freight LED vehicle tow light set (magnetic mount to stick on a vehicle in-tow). These were able to prove I wired the trailer connector correctly, and can also be used as needed on my cargo carrier or bike rack.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  4. #284
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    most things have a hot idle in the 600-700 range. Too low and its prone to stalling and charging issues, too high and it either bangs with an auto or you ride the clutch too much with a stick.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #285
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    I did bring the idle back up to around 750 warm. I think I need to teach the computer something-something, but not quite sure exactly what, as the IAC does not take over no matter how low I bring it down. However the IAC does work because when the engine is cold started it holds about 1500RPM idle speed for a minute or so.

    I applied a new sticker to the Ranger, since my employment is more or less solidified now:



    Found that the exhaust hanger (same one as used on the Lincoln) has failed (in the same way as the same ones did on the Lincoln). Most concerningly is the fact that the factory hangers were still load bearing and are located just inches apart from this one; it was only there to reduce noise from some effects that are hard to coherently put into written words. So that settles that, do not buy Walker 35600 hangers for any type of use whatsoever, as they are garbage. A proper solution here involves replacing the midpipe and muffler, and I'll probably just end up doing that as my patience for these self-engineered hackjob repairs is thinning. This hanger was only on for a very short time, I think I put it on when I installed the hitch.

    https://i.imgur.com/6atiFGC.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/2c2QIyI.jpg

    The air suspension has been holding pressure and has done wonders for the handling. This truck has a tendency to do a weird sideways hop going over certain bumps, and that is almost entirely cleaned up by a little air in the back. Next step will probably be some shocks that don't suck. I also have a front sway bar waiting for me from a guy on a Ranger forum so that's going to do wonders as well.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  6. #286
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    Yeah, the side hop from a solid axle vehicle will be reduced by firming up the rear suspension, and knowing you the shocks in that truck are from 1985.

    That is one of the biggest differences in my Townie after it lost its rear sway bar, it wants to hop all over in some situations (NB I75 at Big Beaver curve comes to mind). Even on a FWD car, too soft of a shock can cause the ass-end to want to jump around. The '11-'16 Elantra is bad for that, they are a twist-beam rear and they hop all over the place in US spec. Apparently the USDM cars got softer rear shocks to give them a softer ride, swapping in firmer shocks is supposed to fix it. If my Mom wasn't leasing the '16 Elantra she had, I would have ripped out the front shocks before it had 5k miles on it. Drove me nuts. Her's had 17" wheels with lower profile tires, I can't imagine how bad a base model one musta been with 15" wheels. She had a redesigned '17 Elantra as a rental and they almost totally fixed that, it was the single biggest difference while driving it.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  7. #287
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigMerc96 View Post
    Yeah, the side hop from a solid axle vehicle will be reduced by firming up the rear suspension, and knowing you the shocks in that truck are from 1985.

    That is one of the biggest differences in my Townie after it lost its rear sway bar, it wants to hop all over in some situations (NB I75 at Big Beaver curve comes to mind). Even on a FWD car, too soft of a shock can cause the ass-end to want to jump around. The '11-'16 Elantra is bad for that, they are a twist-beam rear and they hop all over the place in US spec. Apparently the USDM cars got softer rear shocks to give them a softer ride, swapping in firmer shocks is supposed to fix it. If my Mom wasn't leasing the '16 Elantra she had, I would have ripped out the front shocks before it had 5k miles on it. Drove me nuts. Her's had 17" wheels with lower profile tires, I can't imagine how bad a base model one musta been with 15" wheels. She had a redesigned '17 Elantra as a rental and they almost totally fixed that, it was the single biggest difference while driving it.
    I'll have you know they're from 2015, sir. And they aren't even bargain basement RockAuto wholesale closeouts either...they're Monroes purchased retail from Advance. However, they were garbage when new and still are today, so that's not saying much. I think they have a lifetime warranty but if the replacements will also be junk then I don't see the value in swapping them out. Rust in my eyes for no reason.

    I've had the hop in the Panthers too, but generally only on extremely aggressive and repeated bumps, like a few potholes spaced just right relative to the wheelbase that the car can't settle again between bumps. The Ranger will get shaky after just a single significant bump. But the lack of sway bar, soft springs, and low-functioning shocks all come together to multiply the effect.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  8. #288
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I once found a Gen 1 Ranger in the junkyard that was an old U-Haul truck. Huge front and rear sway bars. Just in case you come across one...
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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