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Thread: kishy's 1985 Ranger

  1. #261
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
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    Looks like its easy to see above the passenger feet;

    And seriously jealous of that easy r&r core!

    Alex.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails heater-core-83-92.JPG  
    Last edited by GM_Guy; 02-10-2019 at 02:05 PM.

  2. #262
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...if fan speed is on the lowest setting, the vent temperatures are properly hot, and the faster I set the fan, the cooler the air. I was working on the assumption that the faster air speed was removing the heat from the coolant too effectively for the amount of heat present to begin with...
    Your issues aside, you are correct lol. This is why I typically run the blower on anything but high in whatever I'm driving, unless I'm trying to defog the windshield.

    Quote Originally Posted by GM_Guy View Post
    Looks like its easy to see above the passenger feet;

    And seriously jealous of that easy r&r core!

    Alex.
    1987-1996 F series trucks are just as easy, if not easier to do. Remove the glove box door and you can change one in less than 30 minutes. This is coming from a guy who easily spends 3x the amount of time to do something compared to the next guy.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  3. #263
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    Heater core is not obstructed by leaves, and air plenum design is such that no foam is needed, air cannot move past it. There are foam pieces at the top and bottom but the sides don't use any.

    Upon closer inspection, some disassembly, and some head-scratching, I realized that there is no recirculate function. The lever labeled "outside air" is in fact the "air on/off" flap, and if it is closed, there is no air source for the blower to suck in. So that would be why 1. the air speed drops considerably when it is closed and 2. the blower vacuum seems to be able to pull it open on higher speeds.

    I found the (plastic) wall behind the flap that faces the interior and drilled a bunch of holes, so now when the air flap is closed, it does actually recirculate air from the passenger footwell. It basically works like a Panther recirc door now instead of a Ranger dumbass outside air flap. On higher fan speeds it still pulls the flap open partially but that's fine, at least recirculation can actually happen now. Test drive yielded excellent heat with the door in the recirc position so it seems likely that all my heat issues just come back to it being well below freezing outside, probably plus a coolant flow factor, e.g. super cold air comes in, almost all of the available heat currently in the heater core is transferred to the air, leaving no more available, and coolant flow is maybe too slow to sustain the heater core temperature.

    If I were to take a guess, A/C equipped models probably have a recirculate vent in exactly the spot I drilled the holes.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  4. #264
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    When all else fails, modify it so it doesn't suck.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #265
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    When all else fails, modify it so it doesn't suck.
    "She's gone from suck to blow!"
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  6. #266
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    Story time, kids. Gather 'round.

    Going back a bit...prior to the engine swap I had noticed a symptom where the radio would continue to function after turning the truck off. I attributed this to a bad ignition switch and replaced it during the engine swap. Bear in mind the truck was not wired for a radio, so I made my own constant and switched power sources. Constant comes through the firewall from a retrofit fuse panel I installed in 2015 and switched comes from an unused position in the interior fuse panel that is hot with key in run or acc.

    For the last several months the truck has had battery drain issues. Very minor, so when the thing is driven regularly, you never really see it. But since I now have a take-home company car I've been driving the truck maybe only 2 days a week, and the battery issue has become more prominent, where it'll be flat dead on a weekly basis.

    The alternator I put in during the engine swap did genuinely fail (suspect bad diode based on how it behaved). Since that type of alternator failure can also drain your battery, I assumed it was going to fix my problem. I have since found that it did not.

    Today, measured current draw off a fully charged spare battery. 0.61A. That's...uh...high.
    Disconnected charge cable and regulator, no change, that rules out the alternator.
    Yanked all the main power distribution fuses in the engine bay fuse panel (which includes the computer), it went down to about 0.4...still high.
    Revisited the wiring I did in 2015 to add some circuits for aux lighting, 12V sockets, and the radio. Found it. A relay was passing current from the 12V supply terminal, to the positive relay coil terminal, effectively back-feeding power into the accessory circuit when the key is off. The body of the relay was warm. The current draw appears to have been the radio since it was getting not only its constant feed, but also its switched feed (it only has a "soft off").

    I feel reasonably accomplished. Of course, I didn't re-measure after I got everything put back together, so maybe I'll find another surprise soon, but that seems to have done it for now.

    ---

    I decided the Ranger is going to have a proper hitch. It isn't a good tow vehicle by any standard, but I do have half of a Ranger with a tongue attached, and small utility trailers are nice to have access to, as well as hitch-mount bike carriers. So I went looking for a hitch.

    RockAuto, Amazon, some other vendors, then it dawned on me...U-Haul. Most of their hitches are Curt units just with U-Haul's logo on them; there's nothing wrong with them at all. My local corporate location had one, so no shipping, just $150 Canadian plus tax and it was mine. Install looks dead simple as all holes needed already exist in my frame. And yes, the frame is solid enough. While I was at it, I picked up a Class II (better than nothing) for the Lincoln, so it can be equipped with the same amenities...bike carrier being a primary goal there. Same thing, $150 plus tax, and they had it on-hand. Both hitches were tagged "do not reorder", which is maybe unsurprising considering both applications are now long-discontinued vehicles.

    Finally had enough of my tachometer just sitting on the dash, rolling around. Made a little bracket out of galvanized plumbing strap (the lesser-known handyman's secret weapon) and got that sorted out. Also finally stuck the little adhesive pads in place to get the dash cam USB power cable out of the way. Little things, but they matter.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  7. #267
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    Nice days accomplishments. How does U-Haul sell hitches? Do they sell everything they rent, or do they just have certain items (old beat) for sale? Let's see the trailer hitches when you get a chance!

  8. #268
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    They relay was defective?
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  9. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94Magna_Tom View Post
    Nice days accomplishments. How does U-Haul sell hitches? Do they sell everything they rent, or do they just have certain items (old beat) for sale? Let's see the trailer hitches when you get a chance!
    U-Haul sells (and normally installs) hitches. They were willing to sell them to me minus installation ($70 Canadian), and because they were in stock locally, no shipping charge to send them directly to my house (also $70 Canadian). There's a link to a pic of them in the bed of the truck, click on the text 'Class II' in my last reply.

    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    They relay was defective?
    It wasn't, but it became so. I installed it in a manner and location that caused it to get rain water inside it. Solution was eliminating it, as the load it was switching is a secondary fuse panel I've never even used yet, so the relay won't be missed lol.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  10. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94Magna_Tom View Post
    Nice days accomplishments. How does U-Haul sell hitches? Do they sell everything they rent, or do they just have certain items (old beat) for sale? Let's see the trailer hitches when you get a chance!
    You can walk into almost any UHaul and buy a hitch. They install them at a lot of locations, so they have a full selection of them and they do usually come from Curt. Whenever looking for a hitch, its worth it to at least give them a call, their prices usually aren't all that bad and they can get them ordered and in stock pretty quickly. Their installations do very widely on location, I've seen UHaul installs that looked factory (my Dad's old Econoline), and I've seen some where the wiring they did makes you go "WTF?" (neighbor's truck). But as far as the hitches themselves, they are perfectly fine.
    -Steve

    2006 Audi A6 S-Line FWD ~132k miles, stock.
    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~102k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel, rustbelt diet plan..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  11. #271
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I wouldn't be surprised if the U-haul hitches are made in China. I went with Curt for the hitch on my K1500, they're made in Wisconsin IIRC and last I know, they use pretreatment developed by the company I work for. So buy one of those and help put butter & salt on my table, please.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  12. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    I wouldn't be surprised if the U-haul hitches are made in China. I went with Curt for the hitch on my K1500, they're made in Wisconsin IIRC and last I know, they use pretreatment developed by the company I work for. So buy one of those and help put butter & salt on my table, please.
    The U-haul hitches are Curt hitches made in USA lol. They literally are Curt hitches just with U-haul slapping a sticker on them.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  13. #273
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Really?

    If so, that's interesting. A team of people were definitely able to afford steak considering what I paid for the K1500's hitch haha.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  14. #274
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    Really. =-)

  15. #275
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I do not feel bad at all spreading the wealth around, I only wish others had the same attitude haha.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  16. #276
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    I'm sure like anything, U-haul probably has 3 or 4 vendors to get hitches from, depending on application and cost. But I do know Curt is one of those vendors for sure and I'm fairly sure my Ranger hitch is an actual Curt example.

    That hitch got installed today. Pretty simple to put on. The wiring became a bit of a challenge though. The plug-in harness connector for a factory style trailer pigtail was chopped off by the previous owner in favour of crimping (ugh) one on. I got rid of that mess back when I got the truck.

    I started looking at the wiring today and realized it was pretty bad. Cut some wires and checked, all thoroughly black all the way through. I cut out a lot of wire getting back to shiny or almost shiny, then remade the factory harness with new wire in those spots, as well as added a junction box where the inputs from the truck wiring get joined together with the left and right outputs as well as the new trailer connector. It's not as slick as a plug-in factory harness but it works and should keep things working properly.

    https://imgur.com/X3JzgF5
    https://imgur.com/41IofvY
    https://imgur.com/LBCrv2s
    https://imgur.com/nWuxgPf

    Also got to try out my new creeper. It's rated for a 400 pound capacity, so I'm hopeful this one will last. It's great...comfortable and rolls well thanks to the large casters.

    Pulled the trigger on a 4-bike, platform-style carrier for 2" receivers. At most I think I would need to carry 3 bikes, but this way the capacity is there. I'm going to put a Class III (2") hitch on the Lincoln as well as put Air Lift helpers in the rear springs. The Ranger is likely also going to get an Air Lift setup because it sags considerably with even 200lbs aft of the axle.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  17. #277
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I dislike crimp connectors, and I truly hate them anywhere they might get wet. They're more acceptable when sealed with heat shrink but not too many people do that.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #278
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I dislike crimp connectors, and I truly hate them anywhere they might get wet. They're more acceptable when sealed with heat shrink but not too many people do that.
    I was most offended by the fact that he cut the factory trailer pigtail connector off in favour of crimps. Like, what? Those factory harness extensions make it so neat and modular.

    My junction box of doom is not particularly pretty and I do resent the fact I used crimp terminals inside of it, but it's shielded from the elements and should keep corrosion at bay.

    At the points where lengths of wire were replaced, the joints were soldered and sealed in heat shrink.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  19. #279
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    At least you made the effort in finding good copper.

    Adding the trailer wiring is something I should do in the Vic. I dont ever intend to tow anything with that car but I like having the complete package. I have the nice beefy 2" trailer hitch but no wiring. It just bothers me. May start looking into how that goes. I am sure it wouldn't be a bad idea to add some relays back there to ensure everything gets good voltage when requested. Taillights, brake lights, directionals, hazards and reverse? EDIT...license plate lamp....?
    Last edited by 87gtVIC; 03-03-2019 at 04:27 AM.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  20. #280
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The stock tow package had relays for running lamps and each turn signal. It also had a power feed from the front for charging a battery on the trailer and the wiring that ran to under the dash for a brake controller. I actually need to re-install that part of my car. I've got it unplugged in the trunk, the harness that gets from there to the socket just never got put back in when the car was painted however long ago now.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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