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Thread: kishy's 1985 Ranger

  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Is that a double donger TFI module in one of those photos???
    Kinda sorta. The twin plug distributorless setup uses a module that I suspect electronically works very much like the TFI modules. However it has to interface with two coilpacks and also takes its spark firing data from a crank position sensor rather than a dizzy pickup (and there is no cam sensor on this engine but a normal 95 Ranger 2.3 would have one - 95 is EEC-V though and has no ignition module).

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  2. #202
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Looks like thats what it is. Not an item I'm familiar with.

    The 4.6 engines use that same sort of compressor tool to change seals.

    Kinda jealous that you have a spring loaded timing belt tensioner. Mine has a manual one. Instructions are to put a beam style wrench on it, torque to whatever and then hold it there while tightening the lock bolt. Its kind of a pain in the ass.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Looks like thats what it is. Not an item I'm familiar with.

    The 4.6 engines use that same sort of compressor tool to change seals.

    Kinda jealous that you have a spring loaded timing belt tensioner. Mine has a manual one. Instructions are to put a beam style wrench on it, torque to whatever and then hold it there while tightening the lock bolt. Its kind of a pain in the ass.
    Yeah... I was surprised with that thing when I helped change that timing belt on that 95 Ranger. Yours sounds a lot like the timing belt in the 1.9L early 90s Escort engine... except it didn't even have the tension screw. You were just supposed to hold the pulley as tight as you could and tighten down the bolt. PITA.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
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  4. #204
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    The shop manual says to put a torque wrench on it to set it, but there is nowhere to attach, pry or otherwise utilize any sort of torque wrench, prybar or anything else. So the spring did it and I tightened it down as it was. With the outgoing 2.0, I had the same issue, and the belt has stayed on just fine letting the spring set the initial tension so I'm sure it's fine.

    The end is near...

    Swap progress for today:
    Figured out the best belt size: 6K400. 380 is too short, 405 fits but the tensioner barely pushes on it, so 400 it is.
    Tested and installed thermostat.
    Routed PCV hose, likely too thin and will collapse, but whatever.
    Gapped, antiseized and torqued plugs.
    Installed exhaust manifold, chased O2 sensor port threads, cleaned up EGR tube threads and installed EGR tube.
    Replaced DPFE pigtail with EVP pigtail.
    Installed alternator.
    Installed pilot bearing.
    Mounted flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate.

    Dropped the engine into the truck.
    Not done yet though. Fuel tank is absent, need to run lines. Also need some heater hose.


































    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  5. #205
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    That's looking good! Can't wait to hear about the first startup.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
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  6. #206
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    Yeah... I was surprised with that thing when I helped change that timing belt on that 95 Ranger. Yours sounds a lot like the timing belt in the 1.9L early 90s Escort engine... except it didn't even have the tension screw. You were just supposed to hold the pulley as tight as you could and tighten down the bolt. PITA.

    Its not really a tension screw, the pivot point is hex shaped and you just put a socket and the torque wrench on it. Its a German engine, they have specifications for their specifications.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #207
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Very nice. I like to tell people that I enjoy working on cars in general. Not just my Mustang and GM. I find builds like this just as interesting as the sexier stuff.
    óJohn

    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giraffe View Post
    Very nice. I like to tell people that I enjoy working on cars in general. Not just my Mustang and GM. I find builds like this just as interesting as the sexier stuff.
    This has a lot of little details, given the exact scope of what's being done. Buying parts in the future is going to be mildly complicated due to the year spread of parts in use. I'm writing a little reference card of that sort of info (e.g. belt number, spark plugs, what year of what vehicle to ask for at parts stores, etc) to laminate and put in the glovebox.

    The end is less near.

    Swap progress for today:
    Bellhousing and mounts fully bolted up.
    O2 sensor installed.
    New main ground cable completed.
    New gear reduction starter installed.
    Old oil drained, new oil put in with new filter.
    Fan clutch attached to water pump.
    Misc wiring stuff.
    Tested mysterious unused switch on side of trans, determined it is a neutral safety switch so I'll use that with my remote starter.
    Was going to crank the engine (no fuel) to prime the oiling system but discovered the new starter is either dead or I introduced an issue during install, so that needs to come out again for diagnosis.

    To-do:
    Figure out starter issues
    Connect driveshaft,
    Route fuel lines,
    Hang fuel tank,
    Repair parking brake,
    Cooling system stuff (flush, fill, figure out hoses)
    Install remote starter











    All body electrical is working so the hackery I did with the harness worked.
    The ECM triggers the fuel pump relay so most likely the engine electrical is good to go also.
    The start circuit works, but starter itself is inop.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  9. #209
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    The end is more near! And then less near again!

    Swap progress for today, so far:

    Fixed the starter. A crimp had come undone. Engine cranks happily now. I'm glad I realized this before actually removing the starter.

    Determined I need a different lower rad hose due to a tight bend in the routing. Will use current to flush block but will get correct hose to actually use. The new hose will be the correct hose for a 95 Ranger (with the extension pipe off the water pump which the earlier trucks lack). The upper hose for the 85, which I replaced in my ownership of the truck, fits the 93 style thermostat housing just fine.

    Started engine. It ran reasonably well. Especially considering I forgot to connect the MAF lol. Gas tank is on the ground under the truck, just set up temporarily to make sure it runs (and it did, so the tank can go up soon).

    However, it has since stopped starting so diagnosis is required. It is not sparking on any plug on either side, so a wiring, ICM, or crank sensor issue is suspected. After a break earlier I tried it again and it did fire one cylinder, one time, so I don't know. That tends to speak to the crank sensor being fine.









    Heading back out to troubleshoot. It's dark and rainy so I might call it a night. Junkyard tomorrow for a spare ICM is a possibility. It's a lot easier to rule parts out when you have spares to swap in place but none of this item has shown up lately and they're way too expensive new to buy unnecessarily.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  10. #210
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    make sure the crank sensor connections are good. The 4.6 cars get randomly shitty like this when the CPS plug gets crusty.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    make sure the crank sensor connections are good. The 4.6 cars get randomly shitty like this when the CPS plug gets crusty.
    The connectors are spotless, look brand new. I'm leaning towards the crank sensor being good though.

    As a further update with the no-start not resolved:

    Fuel pressure is a very stable just-north-of 40PSI. If fuel is turned off (inertia switch) with fuel pressurized, and the engine is cranked with ignition on, the pressure drops in very crisp, precise drops, as the injectors open and close. This tells me the computer is seeing the signal from the crank position sensor, otherwise it would not be opening injectors.

    My timing light is not flashing on any plug, consistently, when cranking. It may occasionally blink but not with any regularity.

    With the exhaust side plugs out of the head and fuel and ignition turned on, the engine spits fire out of the plug wells. Thus, the intake side plugs are firing sufficiently to ignite the a/f mix.

    However, the spark at the plugs is a weak sickly yellow colour. This suggests there may just not be enough voltage hitting the plugs which might point to the coilpacks (but really, two coilpacks? and on both pairs of outputs?) or power supply to the coilpacks (ign module suspect or ignition switch voltage drop). This suspected low spark voltage is probably why my timing light is not flashing.

    Replaced the ignition switch since I had one, and since the old one was known to be junk from past experience, and saw no change. But at least the issue should be gone where I can wiggle the key to turn the accessory circuit off.

    We've got fuel, we've got air, and we've got spark but not very good spark.

    Some additional testing focusing on the ICM and coilpacks will follow.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  12. #212
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    I'd offer up my spare coil packs, but I forgot they are currently running my Lincoln. That is, assuming that motor takes the same 2 coils as a Aero 4.6 like I know the later twin-spark 2.3s did.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  13. #213
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    Weak coils could definitely cause the sickly colored spark.

    My Cars:
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 POTM Winner
    -1989 Sable LS Wagon (88,710 Miles) - Sold
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (210K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  14. #214
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    Got junkyard ICM (newer aftermarket, which is a good sign). Did not fix issue. Spark might be better than I remembered it being, but...I dunno.

    Fiddled around with a bunch of random stuff and finally did a compression test. A very even approx 60-65PSI on all cylinders.

    It's way too level across all 4 to be the head gasket, rings, or valves, because those issues would make it vary from cylinder to cylinder. Suspect cam timing is off.

    Not sure how or why it ran before, but the compression speaks to why it isn't starting the engine but how it shot flames out of the plug wells. It is putting fuel in, and it is putting spark in, and fire is happening, but the fire is not happening at the right time on the cam for anything helpful to come of it.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  15. #215
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Aren't these supposed to only fire one bank of plugs during ignition?

    Check power to the ECM. When the Mark VII died at homeless depot I tested for spark and it was sickly yellow too. Turned out the ECM relay was spotty. Shop also replaced TFI harness as they said it was corroded. IDK, it ran after that but the timing was way advanced and I never figured that shit out before I sold it.

    Also, did you verify timing now that the thing won't run? I suspect that is also off like you do.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  16. #216
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    My favorite, rule out the obvious check; connect a jumper cable between the engine and battery negative to make sure ground is good.

  17. #217
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    So, those timing marks are little bastards. And they lie. At least they do on this engine.

    I had to use the (nonexistent) timing marks that exist on my 2.0 to set the timing on this 2.3 correctly. It was about 4 teeth out from correct because:

    1 - when I set it, I missed the triangle mark by 2 teeth (oops), and
    2 - I had to time it off the old school timing pointer instead of the triangle (cam key pointing straight down)

    The markings to correctly time my engine do not exist. This is probably the result of the mish-mash of years of parts that went into it.

    The easy way to do it (and what I did) is with the cam timing mark centerline aligned with a straight line between the center lines of both the cam and oil pump pulleys. That got me to a 140PSI (dry) compression result.

    Progress for today is very good. It runs and drives!

    Ignition module thermal paste re-applied.

    Rad flush and distilled water in engine with heater core not in the circuit. Hoping to clean the inside of the block.

    Made a new ground connection to the frame rail where the new fuel sender harness wants to be grounded.

    Oilsprayed (Rust Check) inside frame rail beside fuel tank.

    Fuel tank reinstalled; driveshaft reinstalled. Fuel float has decided to act up again but I'll survive.

    Also received a new ignition switch the other day.

    Ziptied the throttle cable in place (and many other things) and took it for a drive. Drives awesome. Tons more power than before.

    Still need to put some finishing touches on, such as mounting the air cleaner and reinstalling the hood, and tighten up the exhaust, but this is almost road-ready.





    2.0 timing pointer:


    2.3 after timing correctly (notice it doesn't point at anything, but that's where the 2.0 pointer would be):











    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  18. #218
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Cool. I knew 90psi was too damn low.

    I love the 2.3 in twin plug config. My brother's '97 was fabulous with it's regular cab config paired with a 4.11.

    Where did you end up making the ECM live?
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  19. #219
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Cool. I knew 90psi was too damn low.

    I love the 2.3 in twin plug config. My brother's '97 was fabulous with it's regular cab config paired with a 4.11.

    Where did you end up making the ECM live?
    60!

    The 3.45 rear end could be better, but first gear already goes by pretty fast, so...it's fine.

    ECM is currently sitting on the driver side fender apron, secured only by the wiring attached to it. That's one of the finishing touches. A friend suggested a surplus ammo box might be a good weathertight container for it and the eventual remote starter that's going to live beside it. A big Ziplock bag and zipties will suffice otherwise.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  20. #220
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Nice work. Mixing parts can always be troublesome. Glad you figured it out.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

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