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Thread: kishy's 1985 Ranger

  1. #241
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    as long as it hasn't been overheated or run with no air filter its probably OK.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  2. #242
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    No sir, not on my watch. I bought it with 85k on the clock too. Nothing but good air filters, Valvoline synthetic and Motorcraft or better oil filters every 3k.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  3. #243
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    Updates, updates!

    I'll guesstimate about a month after the swap, I started getting a flickering amp light at idle. The voltage was normal, maybe a bit low, but still well north of 13V in all conditions. This uses a 95A side-mount 3G and I had purchased a new one for the engine swap. I swapped the regulator as a test and found it behaved the same. Wiring checked out OK, kind of miraculous given how much DIY I have into this. It began killing the battery when parked, so I'm thinking a diode popped.

    The exhaust, which I repaired roughly a year ago, decided to crap out. Not surprising. The way I repaired it last time was hammering a 2-1/4"-to-2" reducer into the "not quite any normal pipe size" tail of the gutted catalytic converter and clamping it in, then putting a long flex joint between that and the pipe to the muffler. It worked well. But the flex joint has given up; one or more of its layers of webbing has disintegrated so now the webbing is all black and acts as an exhaust filter of sorts.

    Also, the internal of the muffler rusted apart, so now it's more like an engine noise resonator with rusty metal percussion feature, which is not so great.

    With my new job I started at the beginning of December, I had to put anything else on the back burner. Career advancement and all that. Work provides a car, which was convenient especially with the issues with the truck.

    I had the exhaust parts on hand, just had to do the work. Ordered the alternator (RockAuto, cheapest FedEx option) late Thursday night and had it Monday afternon, astoundingly. Found the time to do the work today.

    Alternator in, amp light is gone, all is good.

    Oil and filter changed, not quite sure what the mileage was, but it was early. Figured I might as well. This was the second change with the new engine, the first one was just a few hundred km to wash out any junk in the new engine. The valve cover gasket has a mild leak so I'll replace that eventually. 5W30 full synthetic with a FL1A.

    Exhaust repaired. New downpipe, new catalytic converter which is not gutted, and used straight pipe in place of the flex joint which was no longer necessary.

    I need to replace the "non serviceable" bushings in the transmission crossmember. The rubber has completely given up and egged out such that the crossmember is now just sitting on the tube around the bolt. I have a plan in mind, just need to find some time and do it. This is really just a NVH concern currently, a lot of drivetrain vibration is being transmitted into the cab and particularly steering (direct link to frame rail which now has a direct link to the trans body, more or less).








    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  4. #244
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Are the dead bushings those horizontal ones that kind of look like control arm bushings? If no bushings exist, you might be able to cheat and "make" some with radiator hose, or maybe find some generic poly bushings and modify them to fit.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  5. #245
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Are the dead bushings those horizontal ones that kind of look like control arm bushings? If no bushings exist, you might be able to cheat and "make" some with radiator hose, or maybe find some generic poly bushings and modify them to fit.
    Yeah they're kinda like control arm bushings. I found a recommendation to use a specific GMC leaf spring bushing and it looks like they may work, with some washers to shim it, as the bushing is long enough for the crossmember but not long enough to totally fill the gap into which the crossmember mounts.

    It won't be perfect but as long as I can get the metal-on-metal to stop happening it should improve things.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  6. #246
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    rusty muffler... I have experience with that...

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  7. #247
    Member of the Orb Alliance packman's Avatar
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    DId FOrd put dual cats on that '85; or a single cat?

    I had the outlet of the 1st cat rot out on my Ranger. I was going to extend it into the replacement piping and Dynomax muff I had replaced a few months earlier; but the cats sit above the tranny X-member. Which made welding an infeasible option. I was going to cut both cats off and just run the piping to the muffler, but there wasn't much pipe at the inlet of the 1st cat to grab onto. Ended up cutting the exhaust off after the 1st cat and dealing with the noise.

  8. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    rusty muffler... I have experience with that...
    This muffler looks fine externally, but has internally decided to give up on life, it seems.

    Quote Originally Posted by packman View Post
    DId FOrd put dual cats on that '85; or a single cat?

    I had the outlet of the 1st cat rot out on my Ranger. I was going to extend it into the replacement piping and Dynomax muff I had replaced a few months earlier; but the cats sit above the tranny X-member. Which made welding an infeasible option. I was going to cut both cats off and just run the piping to the muffler, but there wasn't much pipe at the inlet of the 1st cat to grab onto. Ended up cutting the exhaust off after the 1st cat and dealing with the noise.
    Single cat. The one I took off (gutted by previous owner surely due to the oil consumption plugging it severely) had the Ford logo on its heat shield. The single cat in this case lived beside the trans, above the crossmember, as yours was.




    Some more updates.
    I went to a junkyard on 1/05 and found a single cab Ranger with the speaker boxes behind the seats. Collected those, the dash speakers, and its stock radio.

    I then put everything in my truck, fixing a long-time hackjob where a couple Panther door speakers were sitting basically on top of the dash. Interesting note, the Ranger/Bronco II dash speakers are the same oddball size as the Panther dash speakers.

    The radio has no right channel, which is annoying, but I suspect repairable. I'll likely rip it apart and see if I can figure out how it all works. The rear speakers are trash, foam is toast, and unlike I assumed it won't be viable to open the boxes and put new speakers in them, so I'm going to get a set of NOS ones with intact foam off a buddy who has them...$20 is a very fair ask for those, on his part.










    We had a couple good snow days.



    The extreme cold that happened in the last week really showcased how bad the heat is. Decided to try a new thermostat of a different brand than I've used previously, as the issue is the engine itself does not get above about 150 degrees. Motorad 195 came out, Motorcraft 195 went in. Fel-Pro is making a PermaDryPlus gasket for the thermostat housing, which I wish they'd do for the SBF t-stat and water pump...jumped at the opportunity to buy that. Coolant looks pretty gross considering it's about 3 months old so it's getting flushed again at the end of this season.







    Note the gasket says "ROL" on it...as in, ROL Gaskets.

    Removed the weird buttplug thing from the intake tube. No idea what I've gained or lost by doing that. Doesn't feel faster and doesn't sound louder, so I dunno.



    Fixed the trans crossmember and replaced the trans mount. Bushings are "non-serviceable" and the x-member is meant to be replaced as a unit...no thanks. Bought leaf spring bushings for a 98 Chevy 1500 pickup following a tip from YouTube, found indeed they fit, not super tight though, so I RTV'd them in. They weren't loose, but could be removed by hand, so the RTV should be all it takes to lock them in enough. Shimmed the remaining gap with washers. Drivetrain vibration is no longer assaulting me while I drive, so it must have worked.























    In the wake of previous exhaust work, I found the tailpipe would not stay located properly and kept wanting to point up into the rear quarter. I also picked up a new metal-on-metal sound as well as an exhaust leak. Inspection today found the metal-on-metal was the pipe ends inside a butt joint clamp rubbing together, so I readjusted everything to make more of a gap inside the clamp. Exhaust leak and position issues were from a rust/fatigue failure at one of the hangers. I've supplemented it with a universal hanger and that seems to have made it all good again.








    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  9. #249
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Yeah... my muffler looked fine externally too. Then that one morning when the extra fuel in the exhaust got pressurized by the rust blocking the rear port on the muffler and BOOM! blew it clean open.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  10. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    Yeah... my muffler looked fine externally too. Then that one morning when the extra fuel in the exhaust got pressurized by the rust blocking the rear port on the muffler and BOOM! blew it clean open.
    Ah, yes...that's what happened to the original exhaust downstream flange on the cat on this. It was still carbureted at the time, and the cat was hollow, and the smog pump diverter was constantly injecting air. I had a long wide open throttle acceleration followed by a sudden complete throttle closure, followed by a loud bang blowing out the pipe right behind the cat.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  11. #251
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    so does it have heat now?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    so does it have heat now?
    Well, we went from -11F to about 50F over the past 4 days, so...I haven't really been able to verify its performance. So far, the heat works exactly like it did before, which is "performing correctly when the outside temperature is mild".

    It still struggles to get over 175 which makes me think it is indeed just the cold-blooded nature of the Lima screwing me over here. I boil tested both the Motorad t-stat before it went in, as well as the newly installed Motorcraft one, and I don't think there is any leakage past the thermostat happening, so that just leaves an engine that refuses to get hot enough. It's damn near identical to how the old engine was.

    Infrared thermometer on the cylinder head more or less verified the gauge reading, as well. Coolant mix is a solid 50/50. Heater core had good through-flow when I ran the hose through it, so all the pieces are in place for this to work, but the engine isn't playing its role. Of course, it is possible that I've got broken blend door flaps making it so I can't get as much heat out of the core as is going into it. Controls seem to work correctly but it's a possible trouble spot.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  13. #253
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I am beginning to think Lima fours can run without a radiator as long as the heat is on. FWIW my 95 has hot heat even though the stock mystery gauge says it’s very barely in the normal on the cold side.
    It does come up about 40% in the normal in the summer with the air on. Clutch fan even kicks in.
    The hottest it ever got is half the gauge, with three adults in the cab trying to run 75mph in the summer with A/C. Flat out floored. Lopos are power monsters in comparison.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, former lawn ornament
    Other: 95 Ranger, 74 F250, 68 Mustang, 94 Mustang
    Sold: 1982 LTD and 1987 Crown Vic

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  14. #254
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    I guess there are a few angles to look at.

    Recirculate is a manual lever in this vehicle. Something about that mechanism is broken or just wholly inadequate, because setting it to recirc (turning off outside air, specifically) basically kills the air flow, which doesn't really seem right. And of course when you've got sub-zero-Fahrenheit temps outside, the heater core can only transfer a certain percentage of its heat to the air in the split second that the air is touching the heater core...because a high fan speed is being used to try to keep the windshield clear. That doesn't even touch the fact that the windshield is itself being continually cooled by outside air rushing against it, so there are multiple forces at work against me. The heat using the panel vents is a lot more acceptable, but I don't want the heat for me, it's a lot more for the purpose of clearing the windshield...

    This engine lacks the intake heater circuit that a normal vehicle-installed Lima normally has (there is no coolant flowing through the lower intake to warm it). On one hand, it means less metal acting as a heat sink, but on the other, it means less metal retaining heat...so maybe it's nothing. It does present concerns about fuel atomization and intake valve deposits but those are a separate issue.

    The temperature probe location, intake side at rear of the head, is supposedly a cool spot on the engine, so it's entirely possible that seeing 175 at that back corner represents 190ish at the thermostat. And indeed the upper rad hose will be uncomfortably hot when the gauge reads north of 150-ish, with a thermostat that passed testing.

    Lots of fun.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  15. #255
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    is the core plumbing on this one different than a typical car engine, or no? I'd expect decent heat if the engine gets hot enough to open the thermostat, which it sounds like it does if the rad hose is hot. Unless it just doesn't get good flow through the core for whatever reason.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    is the core plumbing on this one different than a typical car engine, or no? I'd expect decent heat if the engine gets hot enough to open the thermostat, which it sounds like it does if the rad hose is hot. Unless it just doesn't get good flow through the core for whatever reason.
    The same. It didn't come to me with a water outlet, so I got a junkyard one, and the heater core supply comes off the side of that adjacent to the thermostat.

    The inlet from the heater core was present when I got the engine. It tees off a pipe that goes to the inlet to the water pump.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  17. #257
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    could just be the way they plumb it you don't get good flow through the core. I'm not going to pretend to know enough about that engine design to know for sure. A friend of mine had a Capri a long while ago with a 2.3 and I don't remember it having particularly lousy heat, but it doesn't typically get below the 20s here either. Its also been more than 20 years since he had that car.

    I wonder if the tee should have a slight restriction on one side of it to force flow through the core instead of around it. Sometimes vacuum plumbing is done that way with tees or connectors that have a particular orifice size. Maybe if you ever get truly bored, see if that part changed at some point over the years to one that has a flow restrictor.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #258
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    The heat in my '94 Lima powered Ranger was decent as I drove along. However, in stop and go driving, it would cool off substantially. Or while waiting for someone in their driveway or parked out front of some place for five minutes or more. Try putting cardboard in front of the radiator or portions of it, it'll help.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  19. #259
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    Nothing unusual about how the heater hoses are routed. How easy is it to get the blower out? I find it curious that airflow gets significantly restricted when you set it to recirc. If you have not looked, see if somebody in the trucks past life taped off the recirc intake thinking it was a hole. Have you ever had the plenum out? Heater core sealed to the box with some foam tape? (I left that out of the mgm when I pulled the core, caused a massive cold car, redid it and foam taped around any gaps around the core and got more heat than I knew what to do with).

    Alex.

  20. #260
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    It is entirely possible the foam is degraded or absent. Heater core was replaced right before I bought it, and if fan speed is on the lowest setting, the vent temperatures are properly hot, and the faster I set the fan, the cooler the air. I was working on the assumption that the faster air speed was removing the heat from the coolant too effectively for the amount of heat present to begin with, however, if the air seal around the core isn't there, the air might just be going around the core (where it will get warm but not hot because it's not there long enough).

    I'll see how easily I can get eyes in there. There is heater core access without removing the dash but since I want to inspect the hinges and remove any trapped leaves, perhaps I should go a little more in depth.

    I haven't figured out where the air intake even is for recirc mode.

    As an example...with grille blocked 100% tonight, temperature 17F plus a nasty windchill, the gauge will creep up on 180 but not any higher (but 180 will give good hot heat). However the heat is still weak. So indeed it's looking more like a problem inside the plenum, either with doors, intake path, heater core...
    Last edited by kishy; 02-10-2019 at 02:47 AM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

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