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Thread: kishy's 1985 Ranger

  1. #21
    I post a lot... turbo2256b's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I wouldn't expect a mid 90s Ranger with a 5 speed to be all that bad. They responded decently to EFI. The carb ones kind of sucked, the carb automatic ones were flat out horrible. The 4 plug variant they had out in the mid 90s ran pretty good. Not sure if that was a 2.3 or a 2.5 but I knew someone who had a Ranger with that motor and the 5 speed. It went pretty well.
    tHE LAST OF THE CARBED ONES WERE 2.0L version of the 2.3. i CALLED THEM electronic carbs. the 2.3 version in those days were FI. Started to design a split port 2.3 with a dual runner intake. would have been quite similar to the 3.0 v6 I did port wise. It was shit caned just before it went to casting division. Politics killed it. later did the oil pan and pickup tube for the 2.5 stroked version of the 2.3 used the last couple years. Saved them 3.50 cents a oil pan. It was an improved structurally, eliminated oiling issues inherent with the old design. Could have even done more but was limited do to shipping pallets and assembly line constraints which would have cost millions to change.

    They had some issues with the dual plug designs some connection at the fire wall if I remember correctly would come loose or something and often keep one set of plugs from firing. Most never knew the difference.
    Last edited by turbo2256b; 10-09-2017 at 08:11 PM.
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  2. #22
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I wouldn't expect a mid 90s Ranger with a 5 speed to be all that bad. They responded decently to EFI. The carb ones kind of sucked, the carb automatic ones were flat out horrible. The 4 plug variant they had out in the mid 90s ran pretty good. Not sure if that was a 2.3 or a 2.5 but I knew someone who had a Ranger with that motor and the 5 speed. It went pretty well.
    My brother had a '95 regular cab shortbox with 4.10's and it went really well compared to my extender cab & it's 3.73's. Was great for tooling around in the city or even the expressway. Not a race truck by any means but for economical, easy to maintain transportation it was great. When I was looking for one I drove a '98 that had the 2.5 you speak of and yeah, that was even better. More torque where you needed it. Truck was a pile so eventually found my '94 and bought that instead.

    I liked the dual plug idea as it eliminated the need for a smog pump. Actually the reason I never got into S10's despite me liking GM's interior design better. Plus I got all stoked reading about the reliability factor of the 2.3 and so that was that. Same group of friends began educating me about the 300 six and well, eventually I moved on to those. I miss RangerTurds though.
    Last edited by DerekTheGreat; 10-10-2017 at 06:26 AM. Reason: More blah blah from me.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo2256b View Post
    ...electronic carbs...
    I don't think I'd call that super accurate. It's not a feedback carb. It has an idle speed motor to bump and hold the idle higher at certain points but it still has the traditional idle speed linkage and works exactly the same aside from the "computer" being able to hold the idle higher if it wants to. Off the top of my head the only sensor the system has is integrated with a ported vacuum switch, for coolant temperature.

    The carb is a Carter YFA. It's largely the same as the YFA that appeared on the 300 I6, which was a feedback carb complete with TPS and all, but the 2.0 version is minus the feedback stuff.

    I do want to eventually 2.3 EFI swap this, but I'm not paying over $100 for the engine so that's gonna be a while down the road. Have to be careful about more torquey options such as the 2.5 because the TK5 trans has internals made of Pillsbury crescent rolls, or so I'm told. I have no plans to get rid of the TK5 either.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  4. #24
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    You're in the great white north. I think the models we got here had additional bullshit that you guys were spared. By and large late carb era stuff in the US was just a nightmare. EFI was a welcome upgrade from feedback carbs and the miles of vacuum plumbing.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  5. #25
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    The things you can do with vacuum are great, but after years of being able to study the failures and problems it caused and why they still continued to use it is beyond me. It's not like people weren't already going to servo motors and stuff. Another reason why I like GMT400 trucks so much. All the vacuum crap is right where you can see it and easy to troubleshoot. None of it messes with the HVA/C either.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  6. #26
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    The things you can do with vacuum are great, but after years of being able to study the failures and problems it caused and why they still continued to use it is beyond me. It's not like people weren't already going to servo motors and stuff. Another reason why I like GMT400 trucks so much. All the vacuum crap is right where you can see it and easy to troubleshoot. None of it messes with the HVA/C either.
    Aero and whale Panthers have comparatively little vacuum going on, just PCV, fuel pressure regulator, and emissions (EGR and EVAP). I think the box cars kept using it because it was an old design dating back to before electric controls for a lot of that stuff was the norm, and back to carbs where there wasn't a computer to control stuff. At least it isn't a "classic" vehicle where everything was vacuum operated including door locks, that would be a nightmare to troubleshoot. I'll take electrical over vacuum when it comes to troubleshooting anyday.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
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    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  7. #27
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Yeah I think you're right there. They only seem to engineer that stuff away with a new platform or significant platform update.
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  8. #28
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    Tables might be turning on that engine swap. The sale is back on, and there's an 87 Turbocoupe in the yard...

    Derek, you free Saturday? Shoot me a PM if you are.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  9. #29
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    Decided not to get a junkyard engine because I'm...what was the cover story again? Oh, right. Concerned about the potential investment depending on possible internal engine issues or a cracked head (not unlikely on a 2.3). It certainly isn't just because I'm lazy.

    Also the ECM was missing from that car which would have made it more complicated and time consuming to arrive at an operational result, so yeah.

    Garage finally has room for two vehicles, put the Ranger inside and double-checked I've got all the parts for the clutch job. It's not going this weekend, but maybe sometime next week I'll start on it.




    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  10. #30
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Did you get the prebled master cylinder? I hear its a royal pain if you don't get the prebled. Luckily I haven't had any trouble out of mine.
    1988 Crown Vic Wagon - daily
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  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    Did you get the prebled master cylinder? I hear its a royal pain if you don't get the prebled. Luckily I haven't had any trouble out of mine.
    I did not, but I've heard the same and will be trying to bleed it before install. I think it has something to do with the direction/orientation of the MC when installed that causes the issues.

    I have no reason to suspect my existing one is bad, but I figured if I'm bleeding the system anyway...

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  12. #32
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    Ended up with more free time and motivation than expected, so I helped a buddy replace his brake pads then got the Ranger off the ground to start on the clutch job.













    At present the trans is out of the truck, bellhousing separated (the slave cylinder is sandwiched in between the trans and bellhousing), but clutch is still assembled on the flywheel. This took from about 9:30PM to midnight. The clutch line is hanging disconnected slowly dripping into a drain pan, didn't really have any alternative option. I topped off the reservoir, I'm hoping it doesn't go completely dry by tomorrow.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  13. #33
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    if its a rubber line, take a pair of vise grips and some scrap fuel line and make yourself a hose pincher. The needle nose versions work better but both help. Put the hose over the jaws to make it nice and round so it doesn't cut the hose and squish it enough to stop the dribble. If its a hard line, maybe try a vacuum cap if you have one small enough.


    Did the slave cylinder fail? Looks awful wet inside the bellhouse.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    if its a rubber line, take a pair of vise grips and some scrap fuel line and make yourself a hose pincher. The needle nose versions work better but both help. Put the hose over the jaws to make it nice and round so it doesn't cut the hose and squish it enough to stop the dribble. If its a hard line, maybe try a vacuum cap if you have one small enough.


    Did the slave cylinder fail? Looks awful wet inside the bellhouse.
    Flexible plastic line, I wouldn't have trusted trying to squeeze it. Didn't end up mattering since I was replacing both hydraulic parts too.

    Slave cylinder was fairly dry, I think it's all from the severely leaky valve cover and somehow finds its way in there. But it got a new slave cylinder anyway. Based on Ford part numbers I suspect it was all original.

    Clutch disc was totally shot, flush with the rivet heads, with rivet head damage on the flywheel. New everything is on including the U-joint I didn't do when I replaced the front one only. First try after reassembling the clutch was not releasing. I re-bled it and it works perfect now. Clutch starts to grab within 2 inches off the floor instead of 1 inch away from the top.

    As it happens the hose for my "one man brake bleeder" perfectly fits onto the clutch line fittings so bleeding the master before it was all assembled, and then keeping the fluid in the line while putting the trans in, was pretty simple and contained. Still a huge mess from disassembly but the bleeding was OK.

    Total work time for both days combined is about 11 hours...I feel like that's not bad for a first timer working at a fairly sluggish pace.























    Last edited by kishy; 10-22-2017 at 11:46 PM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  15. #35
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Ah crap. Getting ready for work this morning I remembered what I forgot to do: lubricate the splines that the clutch disc slides on.

    It slid freely and the clutch wasn't dragging at all (verified with wheels off the ground) so maybe I'll be OK.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  16. #36
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    It's always something. Good work though. Exceeds my ability lol
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  17. #37
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Sweet. Keep that truck running!

    You gonna take the tranny out again?
    ~David~

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  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    It's always something. Good work though. Exceeds my ability lol
    I thought it would exceed mine, but then I just did it lol.

    No one part was even especially difficult or frustrating either, thinking back on it...positioning the trans was annoying but that's about it.

    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Sweet. Keep that truck running!

    You gonna take the tranny out again?
    I think I'm going to leave it unless I hear any clutch rubbing sounds or suspect it starts dragging. In normal operation the clutch disc hovers what, thousandths of an inch off the flywheel? I kind of doubt the lubrication is needed...

    It wouldn't be the end of the world to unbolt things and just slide it back if that were possible. The issue is as soon as the input shaft comes out of the pilot bearing the trans must be dropped and angled to clear the tunnel and wiggle out between it and the crossmember below. This would mean pulling the clutch line to move the trans far enough to lubricate the splines.

    Unless anyone has any experience in this area to say I really, really need to lubricate it, or I notice a related issue, I'm leaving it. Some search results imply I should be OK leaving it.

    Edit:
    But then there's this: https://www.zf.com/brands/en_de/sach...utch_disk.html
    "If the clutch disk is not greased correctly when it is installed, then fretting corrosion may occur in the hub spline. In this case, the clutch disk will seize instead of sliding along the transmission input shaft."

    Looks like I'm taking it apart again. Better now than once a problem develops. Clutch hydraulics are arranged such that I probably won't have to introduce any air at least as long as I cap the line off immediately, so that's nice.
    Last edited by kishy; 10-23-2017 at 03:11 PM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  19. #39
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    I guess that means the job will go faster then

    Still though great work!

  20. #40
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I never greased a clutch, but I've never dealt with one that wasn't mechanically driven. Just be really sparing with any lube, it'll sling out of there and get all over the parts that should not slip if you overdo it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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