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Thread: kishy's 1985 Ranger

  1. #81
    I post a lot... turbo2256b's Avatar
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    I spray the under side of my vehicles with Chain saw bar lube lasts for years works better than under coating.
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

  2. #82
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Coatings are shit, trap moisture. Oil/lubes are certainly better, just be mindful of the chemistry and what not around rubbers & plastics.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  3. #83
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Give me the Cliff Notes version, please

    But also, say a problem is found in the field with a given design, how do they find the problem, is it via customer complaint or do they continue to test the products and designs after they're released?
    Heh. I knew a guy who was a powertrain failure analyst for Chrysler back in the day. Basically he'd take a engine/trans design prototype and run it on a dyno till it broke then figure out how it broke and recommend changes. I remember clearly that he found early 3.5l DOHC V6s would pop head gaskets, which was a problem that continued on production engines. Why? When he reported the issue, he was told that it was too far along in the engineering/design phase to fix it. At some point they did, but it wasn't until several years into production. I imagine that is a fairly common scenario. Something doesn't get discovered/realized early on and by time it is the design is too far along or there isn't enough time to change/fix it unless its something simple.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  4. #84
    I post a lot... turbo2256b's Avatar
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    I had a work order that had to do with a thermostat hsg. It was on one of fords 4 bangers. It was a very complicated hsg design with a lot of stack up / tolerance issues. Had to read through about 2000 reports written by dealership mechanic sorry service technicians. Some really didnt explain the issue some did. Some were because of sand that wasnt flushed out well after the casting of the block. Some the malfunction of the thermostat. Most because of the hsg itself. So I ADJUSTED some of the pieces making up the thermostat assembly to correct. Funny part was I told the engineer how it should have been done a much cheaper and wouldt have any issues. He said were were you when this was designed? I told him i was sitting right next to the guy designing the oil pan for the stroked 2.3. aNY WAY IT was to late to change to my better design as the engine already in production.
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

  5. #85
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigMerc96 View Post
    Heh. I knew a guy who was a powertrain failure analyst for Chrysler back in the day. Basically he'd take a engine/trans design prototype and run it on a dyno till it broke then figure out how it broke and recommend changes. I remember clearly that he found early 3.5l DOHC V6s would pop head gaskets, which was a problem that continued on production engines. Why? When he reported the issue, he was told that it was too far along in the engineering/design phase to fix it. At some point they did, but it wasn't until several years into production. I imagine that is a fairly common scenario. Something doesn't get discovered/realized early on and by time it is the design is too far along or there isn't enough time to change/fix it unless its something simple.
    Very interesting! Stupid move on management's part. Guess that goes back to failure analysis and damage assessment. Like what costs more, pull the engine or deal with warranty concerns? Still, that's a shitty thing to make your customers deal with it, not good for reputation. I hate management, damn bean counting, pencil pushing morons with no concern for the consequences of their actions.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  6. #86
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbo2256b View Post
    I had a work order that had to do with a thermostat hsg. It was on one of fords 4 bangers. It was a very complicated hsg design with a lot of stack up / tolerance issues. Had to read through about 2000 reports written by dealership mechanic sorry service technicians. Some really didnt explain the issue some did. Some were because of sand that wasnt flushed out well after the casting of the block. Some the malfunction of the thermostat. Most because of the hsg itself. So I ADJUSTED some of the pieces making up the thermostat assembly to correct. Funny part was I told the engineer how it should have been done a much cheaper and wouldt have any issues. He said were were you when this was designed? I told him i was sitting right next to the guy designing the oil pan for the stroked 2.3. aNY WAY IT was to late to change to my better design as the engine already in production.
    So did the eventually phase your fix in or just let it go? Why don't they catch that stuff before production hits? Don't the test engines for several years before production?
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  7. #87
    I post a lot... turbo2256b's Avatar
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    They fazed in my fix of the original design but didnt go with my better , cheaper, simpler design. Would have if the original wasn't already in production.
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

  8. #88
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Pics of the brake carnage from Tuesday:





    Today, replaced the master cylinder out of "an abundance of caution":



    That adjustable pushrod the people talk about:







    The old MC had been actively leaking against the booster, so this was needed. The brakes feel pretty much the same after bleeding, but now it will lock up the fronts if I really try, so it's better all around.

    I took it to the shop that did the safety on it 2 years ago and had the technician take me around the block in it. He said it stops perfectly and pedal feels normal. That plus knowing I can lock em up if I need to is good enough for me.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  9. #89
    fomoco panthers !
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    Glad to see someone else doing a bench bleed on the master cylinder. Most shops I know, do not do it or don't know what I am talking about. They look at me like I am from Mars. The adjustable push rod exists too ! I thought I was going insane. I miss doing my own work.

  10. #90
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Being able to lock up the tires isn't necessarily an advantage, especially if its touchy. Once the tire stops turning, the stop distance actually increases considerably vs having it at the point just before it locks up.

    people install MC's without bench bleeding? I don't tend to do it literally on the bench, but I use the little bleeder things once its bolted up and bleed the air out.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  11. #91
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    Glad to see someone else doing a bench bleed on the master cylinder. Most shops I know, do not do it or don't know what I am talking about. They look at me like I am from Mars. The adjustable push rod exists too ! I thought I was going insane. I miss doing my own work.
    First time replacing one, so I didn't want to take any shortcuts. I've always understood you need to pre-bleed them before line hookups otherwise it's going to be a massive pain in the ass to get the air out after.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Being able to lock up the tires isn't necessarily an advantage, especially if its touchy. Once the tire stops turning, the stop distance actually increases considerably vs having it at the point just before it locks up.

    people install MC's without bench bleeding? I don't tend to do it literally on the bench, but I use the little bleeder things once its bolted up and bleed the air out.
    Oh, it's not touchy at all. I have to put an enormous amount of pressure on the pedal very rapidly to cause lockup. I am quite well acquainted with locked up brakes ruining an afternoon (ugh), but I also feel that if they can't be locked up at all, something is not working.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  12. #92
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    +1 I bench bleed on the vehicle as well... but I also pre-bleed the thing turkey baster style (inject through the ports to force the air up into the reservoir).

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
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  13. #93
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    My plan of attack for the exhaust repair has gone quite well.

    From the planning stage:


    What it looks like now:


    Used reciprocating saw to take flange off pipe going to muffler from cat flange. Dropped exhaust off hangers to make room.
    Used a C-clamp creatively to reshape the not-quite-round pipe on the cat into something mostly round.
    Hammered a pipe reducer into the cat pipe. It went together with an "interference fit" then U-clamp around the outside after. No force of man is separating those pipes.
    14" flex joint onto the reducer (slip fit). U-clamp with muffler putty sealing that joint.
    Cut back the exhaust pipe further to match length of flex joint.
    Used a lap-joint band clamp for the slip-fit between the flex and the pipe.

    While doing this I confirmed visually that the cat is gutted. Original owner did it. Makes sense. It was crazy loud with the break at the flange, as if there was no cat in the picture.

    Now, it's so quiet I can't even really hear it idling. Eliminating the fumes under the cab is a nice bonus too. Really pleased with the result here.

    I'm not expecting that flex joint to have a super long lifespan (it's a Walker 42216) but flex seemed like the right choice given that nothing was lining up directly. That's a $70 (Cdn) part in retail stores but I got it from RockAuto for $17.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  14. #94
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Holy moly on you Canadian flex pipe prices!
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  15. #95
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    Holy moly on you Canadian flex pipe prices!
    Yeah, that. That's why to get it past inspection (only required to initially plate it), it was patched with soup and pop cans, muffler putty, and a band clamp. That's also why, when that all blew apart back in winter '15-'16, it wasn't fixed until now. I assumed there was some legitimacy to that price (foolish) and figured they'd be pricey everywhere. Not so.

    You don't know a loud car until you've heard a 2.0(2.3) with a gutted cat open right after the cat. In a cab with no noise insulation? With a powerband positioned such that you pretty much have to redline it everywhere? The radio was pretty much just there to be a clock, couldn't hear it or passenger conversation.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards

  16. #96
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I once drove my Mark VII to get exhaust put on it with the mid pipe broken right under the seat on one side. It had a quiet speed, but it was 105 mph. I thought perhaps that was not smart so I just drove with ear plugs in.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  17. #97
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    The Mad Marquis once had the plugged air injection pipe fall off the driver side aftermarket cat... let's just say that anything was loud... but when cruising... the only reason I could hear the stereo at all was because I had the banging system in it that's now in the Cake. Sounded like a straight piped chevy 350. Also, the hole being where it was... me feet stayed warm without heat from the HVAC system and the floor vibrated very much. Drove out to my Aunt's house (2 hours away) so my cousin could weld the pipe back on. No problem since, but my feet were almost numb by the time I got there. Not as loud as what that 2.3 or an HO would deal, but still enough to wear on ya after 2 hours.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 88 MGM (SOLD), 93 Vic, 2000 Crown Vic, 2003 Expedition
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
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  18. #98
    drink a beer, grow a beard, cut it, grind it, weld it back His Royal Ghostliness's Avatar
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    You people are wimps - had a smoke(less) stack thru the bed once upon a time, with a straight pipe feeding it right off the Y-pipe and no turbo to chop the sound down - how a buddy of mine was able to sleep in the passenger seat with that beast roaring right behind him is something I shall never quite understand. The way she is now, turbo with straight pipe and out the side, well let's just say you REALLY don't wanna be next to me when I hit the exhaust brake at anything over 2000 RPMs - and some fool drove right into it fully engaged at close to 3k few days ago, he wasn't there when I downshifted and flipped the switch but he came cruising in like he owns the road despite seeing he can't get past me cause of traffic ahead, well if he was feeling sleepy before I'm pretty sure he was wide-awake afterwards, lol

    Kinda curious how much quieter my new exhaust will be, it's factory setup off a 6.0 PSD (yes, even the cat will go back on) so it should be pretty tame...
    The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
    The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

  19. #99
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Unless it's a big block or straight up performance car, I want the exhaust to be quiet. I took our truck back to the shop 3 or 4 times for them to fix the exhaust manifold leak they kept trying to pass off as "timing" related. Last time I go to that shop though.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  20. #100
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
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    I had the flange between the cat and H-pipe give up on the drivers side of the HPP. I learned 2 things, a NPI 4.6 CAN sound really good, like a pissed off Mustang, and that they CAN be unbearably loud.. With it dumping right under my feet while driving, the vibrating floor would make my feet go numb after awhile. I had about a week between when it broke and when I had time to fix it. In that time I made 2 70-some mile trips for the holiday and it was extremely tiring. The only downside is that now that I fixed it the car seems entirely too quiet, I dunno what I want to do about that.
    -Steve

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

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